Treasures of the Auckland Town Hall

Photos taken from when I was part of a group guided around the Auckland Town Hall, 15 December. See also my previous post on the Town Hall's centenary.

Plaques extolling the work of former city councillors are everywhere in the vestibule areas of the Town Hall. If your name ends up in bronze or marble -- and it isn't in a cemetery -- you've made it in the world.

But this one is special: in honour of Lieutenant-Commander William Edward Sanders, VC, DSO. I've come across him before when looking at the Takapuna War Memorial.

Kate Sheppard is here as well. Roderic Burgess' bronze from 2009, donated by Parisian Neckwear Co Ltd "in recognition of the contribution of women in society, and in particular those who have worked in the company since 1919."

In the South Lightwell area, a rather large irregular-shaped piece of kauri.  It looks somewhat like an oversized woodwork off-cut. This was donated to the city by retired cabinetmaker George F Saunders at Arbor Day, July 1950. Saunders, after working for Garlick & Cranwell since 1886, struck out on his own in May 1898 (Auckland Star, May 16 1898) as a "practical cabinetmaker", as well as a joiner and an undertaker. By 1900, business must have been good, as he advertised for other cabinetmakers to work with him, and a french polisher. His house (he only rented it) in Portland Road Remuera burned down in 1901. But, he remained in business through at least to the 1930s-1940s, living by that time in Lincoln Street, Ponsonby.

The provenance for the kauri board is given as having been originally part of a large tree in the Kaureranga Forest near Thames, floated to Auckland by the tug Lyttelton in 1915 to be cut up by the Kauri Timber Company. "The tree from which it came", according to the Herald on 4 August 1950, "measured 50ft to the first branch and towered another 45 ft above that. It was reputed to be more than 3000 years old."

Of course, with 21st century hindsight, the word "vandals" comes to mind, but -- such was the way of the timber trade back then. See something big and old, cut it down ...

Saunders may have purchased the timber direct from the company -- and probably used a fair bit in the course of his trade. There may even be the remains of coffins at Waikumete Cemetery made from the wood of that same tree. This remaining piece measured 13ft 10 inches long by 7ft 4 3/4 inches wide when donated. Initially, Council considered incorporating the board in the vestibule of the Pioneer Women's Hall, Freyberg Place. But, as with other items offered to the Council, such as stone sculptures from off old Post Offices, this was stored "for the time being" at the Town Hall. Probably due to its dimensions, it never left.

One thing about the wording on the board: "The polishing of the board was the gratuitous work of the Auckland Disabled Servicemens Re-establishment League." Now, reports at the time described the League's work as "generous" rather than "gratuitous". Sign of a changing slant to the meaning of our words, that "gratuitous" these days is seen as more "unjustified, uncalled-for", than freely given.

Just as an aside, here's the story about the tug Lyttelton according to the NZ Maritime Index:

"Paddle tug built for Lyttelton Harbour Board. She made her way out to New Zealand under sail rigged as a brig, arriving at Lyttelton 21 Nov 1878. Whilst in service she was involved in several notable salvage feats. 1901 reboilered. Sep 1907 sold to Devonport Steam Ferry Company. 1912 sold to Kauri Timber Company and was active between Whangaroa and Coromandel ports towing rafts of kauri logs. 1941 laid up inside the Western Viaduct. 1945 superstructure destroyed in fire. 5 Oct 1955 towed north and run ashore at Lagoon Bay, Takatu Peninsula, for use as a shingle hopper. When shingle trade ceased mid-1970s the hull was left to become slowly buried in the shingle drifts."

Images of her can be found here.

This is now historic, displayed in the old Council Chambers. The Super City came into effect in 2010 just before the last space could be filled. Has a new board been started for the Mayor of Auckland Council?

I didn't quite catch the name of the room during the tour, but Rendell McIntosh of Parnell Heritage advised that this, the chandelier remnant of Sir John Logan Campbell's Kilbryde house, now resides in the Ngati Whatua Room, part of the municipal offices section of the Town Hall.

The thought that went through my mind on seeing this was -- it is also one of the last remnants of one of the temporary hospitals used during the 1918 'flu epidemic here in Auckland, with Kilbryde, then owned by the Council, called into service.

Next year is the centenary of Sir JLC's death -- mark the calendars, folks.

Sir John Logan Campbell's funeral cortege. Auckland Weekly News, 4 July 1912, ref. AWNS-19120704-7-3, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

Finally, on display in the front section of the Town Hall, by the reception area to the meeting rooms, there is a small collection of artifacts from the history of territorial authority in Auckland. Here are some of them.

Above, a silver jug to commemorate the last year of the Auckland Harbour Board before amalgamation in 1989 as Ports of Auckland.

Petrified wood, estimated to be 40,000 years old, from a puriri tree, found during the formation of the Balmoral to St Lukes regional road in 1971.

Crown Lynn crockery for the Auckland Regional Authority.

The switch used to turn on electric current for Birkenhead, 1926.

The most intriguing of all: "Trowel used by Governor Hobson when he laid the foundation stone of old St Paul's Church, Britomart Point, in 1841. Presented to the city of Auckland by Geo. S Graham on behalf of the builder, William Greenwood."

Old St Pauls Church, ref 1-W471, Sir George Grey Special Collections

The trowel, so the Auckland Star reported on 11 June 1894, appears to have been kept by William Greenwood until returned to the St Paul's Trustees by that year, when it was used to lay the foundation stone for the second St Paul's church, on Symonds Street. Then, two and a half years later in February 1897, George S Graham presented the trowel to the Auckland Art Gallery, at the request of William Greenwood, who had recently died. If Greenwood did manage to keep the small trowel in such condition for over 50 years, before passing it along -- he did very well indeed.

Another very old settler of the Auckland district passed away at his home at Epsom this morning between one and two o'clock, in the person of Mr Wm. Greenwood, one of our most respected residents. He had been ailing for the past four days from an attack of bronchitis, and had been carefully attended by Dr. Lewis and Knight, but without avail. For some years, he was in partnership with the late Mr Charles Lawson in the stone masonry trade, but for many years past he had lived in retirement at his home at Epsom. He was about 89 years of age, and had been a resident of Auckland for over forty years. An interesting fact in connection with the deceased, as illustrative of the fruits of early settlement in some, if not many, cases, is that over 30 years ago Mr Greenwood became the owner of that block of buildings between the Thistle and Albert Hotels in Queen-street opposite the Auckland Savings Bank, and about six months ago sold the property to Messrs Ehrenfried Bros, for £14,000. 

 Auckland Star 30 September 1895

Thanks in part no doubt to such shrewd dealings, Greenwood's estate was valued at £20,000.

Street Stories 19: Lincoln, Norfolk, Kent and York in Ponsonby

A sequel in a way to Street Stories 18, about Henderson's Lincoln Road.

A reader this morning drew my attention to John Davenport's book on Auckland street names (and, when I checked, the library's street's database as well) which suggests that Lincoln Street in Ponsonby was named (or probably named) after the Earl of Lincoln (pictured, from Wikipedia) who was, for a time, Secretary of State for the Colonies, 1859-1864. Which was around the time Allotment 31, Section 8, Suburbs of Auckland was first being subdivided and the roads mapped (1862-1863) -- see plan Deed Blue V, and deeds index 2A.987. The two businessmen behind the subdivision were named Whitaker and Wood. Short of a trip to Archives New Zealand to hunt up the actual deeds themselves, my money would be on the wager that these two were Frederick Whitaker, and Michael Wood (another chap born in Lincolnshire).

The original streets on that subdivision (just beside Richmond Road, off Ponsonby Road) were Lincoln, Norfolk, Kent and York (York losing out to Mira Street in 1883 when the Auckland City Council changed names around). Considering that the subdivision had two street names which are also names of important provincial centres in England, and two which are also counties, I'd say it was more likely that Wood and Whitaker went geographic rather than biographical in their choice.

A bit of an odd thing -- on the old subdivision plan mentioned, Deed Blue V, Kent street appears to have originally been called York Street. Mira seems to have been a bit of an afterthought, but was eventually called York (until the 1883 change of course). I suppose as Kent and York were both small connecting streets between Lincoln and Norfolk, they were swapped around a bit.

Street Stories 18: Why Lincoln Road?

 Detail from DP 670, originally dated 1888, LINZ records (crown copyright)

The question, "Why Lincoln Road?" came up when a reader of the Avondale Historical Journal contacted me recently asking about the origins of the name. What we now know as Lincoln Road, the long drive from Henderson township up towards either the North-Western motorway, SH16, or the turnoffs towards Massey and Ranui, is an old road. Older than its name actually. It existed from 1866 at least, when Thomas Henderson sold a farm at the end of the area to a man named Shortt, and the road served as a right-of-way connecting Shortt's farm to the Great North Road if required. It wasn't named Shortt's Road, however.

Nor was it named Duncan's road, after that buyer along the frontage in 1878. Nor Hudson's Road, after another major landowner there.

Instead, by 1889, it was called Lincoln Road, the first documented use of the name appearing that year.

WAITEMATA COUNTY COUNCIL. 

An amount of business was transacted yesterday at the meeting of the above body, after we went to press. Lincoln Road.—A petition was read from residents and property holders abutting on Lincoln Road, praying that it should be formed and metalled. It was decided to form the road next summer.

Auckland Star 7 September 1889

The accepted answer as to the origin of the name Lincoln Road is because one Robert Cranwell, one of three members of a syndicate selling the Pomaria Estate (the entirety of the western side of Lincoln Road, plus 173 acres or so along the eastern side) from 1888, came from Grantham, Lincolnshire. That does seem as good an answer as any, considering that I have yet to find any instances of the use of the name for that road prior to 1888. But even that raises questions for me -- why Lincoln? Why not "Pomaria Road"? Well, that option went to one of the side roads in the 1888 estate subdivision (above). Other roads in the subdivision are Rathgar Road (a suburb of Dublin, in Ireland; first reference found online 1916), Larnoch Road, and Woodside Road, named (according to Auckland Library's online list) by the Waitemata County in 1928.

Probably, the three partners behind the Pomaria Estate, especially Cranwell, were able to campaign better than previous landowners to the Waitemata County Council to have the right-of-way recognised as a true road to be formed, and so their choice of Lincoln for a name stuck.

The Pomaria Estate's total area of 898 acres was sold by Thomas Henderson in 1878 to a Mr Mendelsohn (DI 16A.386). This may have been a Temuka storekeeper, one T Mendelsohn -- because by 1885, he had sold the land to three more South Island, more precisely Canterbury, businessmen: Frederic Le Cren (1835-1902), solicitor Arthur Ormsby of Canterbury, and Isaac Lewis Morris of Pleasant Point (NA 41/164). The point of the dealings was undoubtedly for investment. After all -- Henderson received a connection with Auckland by rail in the early 1880s, and it was considered that there might either be a rush of settlers wanting land, or the government itself might come knocking on the doors of major property owners, seeking land for special settlements.

But, the three South Island businessmen sold to three Auckland businessmen in 1888: 

Robert Cranwell, an upholsterer who had his own firm (Cranwell & Co) until 1876, joined Holloway & Garlick that year as manager of their furniture department (Auckland Star, 18 October 1876), and had his name join the others heading the business by 1877. Edwin Holloway left the partnership in September 1879, leaving Jonathan Tonson Garlick and Robert Cranwell to carry on. Robert Cranwell finally dissolved partnership with Garlick in August 1892. According to an obituary for his granddaughter Lucy May Cranwell Smith, Robert Cranwell's son Benjamin (Lucy's father) was the one skilled in orchard cultivation -- but he was born in 1878, a bit young to take part in the earliest years of what some newspapers at the time called the experiment at Pomaria.

For a time, Robert Cranwell became a farmer, and retired in 1893 to his considerable land holdings at Henderson, in the name of his wife Eliza (who had also taken over in September that year, in her name, the mortgage owed by the North Island syndicate to the South Island syndicate.) The Cranwells still retained property in Parnell, however. (Auckland Star, 7 August 1894)

One of the greatest features in Henderson is, of course, the Pomaria estate. It has an excellent position, being tapped by road, railway and navigable water. The owners of this estate, besides planting large orchards on their own account, have sold a good many sections to smaller settlers. The sections run from eight acres upwards. Several of them have water frontages to an arm of the Waitemata Harbour. Mr R. Cranwell occupies a large portion of the Pomaria estate. He has recently erected a very handsome house on his property and has settled there with his family. A Canterbury man tells me that he saw on Mr Cranwell's estate a crop of oats which would more than satisfy a farmer on the richest lands of the premier grain province and I learn from another source that the crop is not so good as one grown on the same ground last year.

 Auckland Star 7 December 1893

He was involved with the local school committee.

By 1900, son Benjamin  operated his own "Delta Nurseries" at Henderson , growing "flowering and ornamental trees, plants and shrubs, including nearly every known and rare varieties". (Auckland Star, 21 July 1900) His father appears to have been involved with growing wattle trees, calling for bark strippers, "3 acres stripped per ton", in the same year. (Auckland Star, 28 September 1900) He died in Parnell in 1916.

A highly esteemed citizen, Mr Robert Cranwell, lately died at Parnell, on. Monday, at the advanced age of 81. He arrived in Auckland on the vessel Matilda Wattenbach over fifty years ago, as a member of a Nonconformist party, formed to settle at Port Albert, on the Kaipara Harbour. Mr Cranwell's. family brought with them a spring cart— the first imported into Auckland— in which they had planned to drive to Port Albert. However, they found that the state of the roads necessitated travelling by bullock waggon, which took six weeks to cover the distance from Auckland to the destination of the party. After farming at Port Albert for some time, Mr Cranwell returned to Auckland, where he entered the furnishing trade, in which he was engaged for some twenty years, first as the head of Cranwell and Company, and later as a working partner in the firm of Garlick and Cranwell. He afterwards took an interest in fruit-growing, and, with two others, established the Pomaria Estate at Henderson, which was one of the pioneer farms of the local fruit trade. Mr Cranwell was for some time a member of the Mount Eden Borough Council, and further evidence of his public spirit was his donation of a library to the people of Henderson. Deceased is survived by three sons and two daughters— Messrs A. H. Cranwell, B. F. Cranwell, and R. B. Cranwell, Mesdames H. West and T. Colebrook—besides grandchildren and one great-grandchild. 

Observer 16 September 1916

George Harden was an engineer by profession. If this marriage notice involves him:

HARDEN - HASELDEN
On Tuesday 15th September 1863 at St Mary's, Parnell, by Rev T Chapman, MA,
George, only son of the late George Harden Esq of Hunston near Dublin, to
Mary Sabin, second daughter of Mr Haselden of Arai, late of London.

New Zealander 16 September 1863, via Rootsweb

then this might explain the inclusion of "Rathgar" among the Pomaria Estate street names. By 1880, he was Patea County Council Engineer. Not much else is certain, at this time, about his life and career, and how he came to be involved with Cranwell and Bell.

Thomas Bell was manager of the Union Oil, Soap and Candle Company, at Bell Road in Otahuhu from at least 1882. The company was still in existence well into the 20th century. Could Bell have had Scottish connections, hence the Larnoch name? That isn't at all certain at this stage. But there's one thing -- neither Bell nor Harden were fellow Albertlanders like Cranwell. That's another West Auckland myth taking a bit of hold in the retelling of the Cranwell story regarding Pomaria, helped by some misinterpretation by those writing obituaries for Lucy Cranwell Smith.

 

What of the Pomaria Estate itself? Named after a noted orchard district in Ancient Rome, it appears to have been part of a movement at the time, financed by local businessmen, to set up orchard growing in districts where other types of agricultural  appeared to be struggling.

Of late increased attention has been paid by the townspeople to the necessity of fostering country industries, as it is recognised that commercial prosperity is largely contingent upon having the land opened up, and settled thereon a thrifty and industrious population … 

Perhaps the most novel feature is the forming of associations of city tradespeople for the purchase of land exclusively for fruit growing and fruit preserving. It is believed with the experience now gained, and the improved appliances for fruit preserving, that this may become one of the most thriving industries of the province. One such block has thus been taken up by city tradesmen, some 15 miles from Auckland, on the Kaipara railway line, containing 1000 acres, and named Pomaria. Active steps are being taken for fencing and planting with fruit trees. In the event of the experiment proving successful, private parties adjacent and the Government intend to open up some thousands of acres for fruit culture on somewhat similar lines. The founders of Pomaria are going upon the lines recommended by Mr Alderton and by Mr Federli. They are looking less to benefitting themselves as a commercial speculation than in initiating for the benefit of' the province a new and more excellent way of dealing with our northern lands, not specially suited for agriculture. The experiment is being watched with great interest by the small orchardists and horticulturists generally. 

Otago Daily Times 27 September 1888

Was the estate a real success? Probably not initially. As with other land developments during the period from 1885-1895, it was a bad time to try to sell land and pay off mortgage debt, during the country's Long Depression.  The title (NA 41/164) shows that from March 1889 to December 1893, only 6 of the total of 40 lots were sold. At that point, the three partners divided up shares in the remainder, or sold broad chunks outright to the Cranwell family, via Robert's wife, Eliza. It would appear that Cranwell ended up taking on most of the financial burden for the estate from 1893. Fortunately, he must have both done exceedingly well in the furnishing trade, and was able to hold on just long enough for true settlement in the Henderson area to take effect from the latter part of the 1890s -- and the coming of the vineyards for which Lincoln Road was to become famous last century. He subdivided the eastern wedge of 170 or so acres in June 1894, keeping part as his property, transferring others to family members, and selling the rest.

The Sanitarium Building, Queen Street

Paul Hafner sent these images of his to me for the blog's "relics collection", back on December 8, saying that many years ago, he'd often walk past this building on his way to work, "Always a healthy selection of nuts and stuff... I have no idea when they ceased their retail operations."

Picking this out of my "received and must do something about it when I have the chance" inbox today, I started looking at when Sanitarium became associated with the building. A late-20th century facade, this. The NZ Card Index database from Auckland Library says that in 1962, the company (already a presence on Queen Street from at least 1927 -- see photo ref 4-1688 on Heritage Images) moved into a permanent site at 110 Queen Street, which is the address still for this building: 108-110 Queen Street.

But -- how long was it before all that was left of Sanitarium's interest here was the lettering with one letter askew, and the "SHF" monogram in the centre?

Well, it seems that the Australasian Conference Association Limited, the property and rights-holding arm of the Seventh Day Adventist Church in the South Pacific (the owners, of course, of Sanitarium Health Foods) owned the Vulcan Lane corner site next to the building (right of Paul's photos) down to 1999, when the site became the property of Norfolk Trustee Company).  So possibly, although there's no sign of them mentioned on the title for the Sanitarium Building itself until 1992, when a number of titles for property at the corner were amalgamated, the health food shop lasted into the 1990s.

But is that the end of the building's story? Uh, no, it isn't ...

The links between the certificates of title and the Deeds Indexes had come adrift over the years. The prior reference given for the combined title in 1992, for example, was a deeds index page which terminated in 1875. Before I made myself dizzy looking through the list of subsidiary references, this allotment having been carved up into small shop sites from Queen Street to High Street even into the 1840s -- I headed to subdivision plans. 

And it was then that I realised that there was much more to the storey of this building Paul photographed than it's use as a base by Sanitarium.

This is a detail from the 1914 plan, DP 9347 (crown copyright, LINZ records). 110 Queen Street back then was owned by a Mr Fernyhough, and occupied (on lease) by the Ivil Brothers, who were hairdressers ... and G Aickin. Which was a name which screeched things to a halt because I know that name well. This was Graves Aickin, Auckland chemist, and nephew to Dr Thomas Aickin of Avondale. When Graves Aickin arrived in Auckland in 1863, he worked for around 18 months on his uncle’s Rosebank farm, before opening up a chemist shop in Karangahape Road in 1865. He’d studied his profession originally in Belfast under his uncle.

Quoting from the Cyclopedia of New Zealand (1902 - Auckland Volume):

He was born in County Antrim, Ireland, and educated at the Rev. J. K. Anderson's seminary, Belfast, and he studied his profession under his uncle, Dr. Aickin, of that city. In 1862 Mr. Aickin went to San Francisco, and came to Auckland in September, 1863. After his arrival in New Zealand Mr. Aickin started farming, and was for about eighteen months engaged in that business with his cousin, Dr. Thomas Aickin, of Avondale. Not being satisfied with his prospect as a farmer, he removed to the city and opened a chemist's shop in Karangahape Road in 1865. There he remained until 1870, when he went to the Thames goldfields, and established a business, but soon returned to Karangahape Road. 

About 1875 he removed to the city, in consequence of the expansion of his business, and took premises in the same block in which his present fine establishment is situated in Queen Street. Since then his business has been one of great dimensions. 

Mr. Aickin first entered public life as representative of East Ward, and filled the position for seven years with credit to himself and benefit to the city. During the same period he was chairman of the Auckland Harbour Board. It was during his chairmanship that the board let the contract for the construction of the Calliope Dock, and during his councillorship the Albert Park, one of the most beautiful parks in the Colony, was laid out, and he also took an active part in the organisation of the Free Library. In the present year (1900) Mr. Aickin again entered public life, and was returned unopposed to represent the Grafton Ward. 

During his long residence in Auckland Mr. Aickin has held other honourable public positions. He has been chairman of the Chamber of Commerce, chairman of the Chamber of Mines, president of the Ratepayers' Association, and member of the Auckland Museum Institute. Mr. Aickin has always been identified with gold mining, and has done a great deal to develop the industry in the Hauraki Peninsula. He married a daughter of the late Dr. Philson.

It was actually 1872 when he first set up business in Queen Street, between Shortland Street and Vulcan Lane, just along from 110 Queen Street, but advertised as "opposite the Bank of New Zealand". (Auckland Star, 30 April 1872) There he set up "The Pharmacy".

MR. AICKIN'S PHARMACY. 

We have paid a visit of inspection to the Pharmacy of Mr G. Aickin, recently established in Lower Queen street, and as we hold that every thing tending to minister to the refined taste of the public, whether in commercial or any other walk of life, is deserving of encouragement, we have very great pleasure in commenting on what we have seen. One cannot fail being first struck with the chasteness and the beauty of the fittings and decorations, and though this may seem to many a thing of minor moment, we affirm that in a chemist's shop of all other places it is of prime importance. The infirmities of the flesh unhappily necessitate our resort to abominable drugs, evil smelling, ill-tasting and nauseating even after they have passed from our gaze, and it is not too great a concession to human weakness that the place where we procure them should be made as pleasant looking as possible. Mr Aickin has evidently consulted for these frailties and sentiments, and has produced a most pleasing tout ensemble of polished mottled kauri and gilding of plate glass and carving; of drawers and phials with their quaint uncouth and elliptical Latin of charming perfumeries and other bijouterie for the lady's toilet, and of huge carboys fearfully and wonderfully made, sufficient to strike the beholder with awe, as containing within them all the healing power requisite for all the ills that flesh is heir to. The Pharmacy is really a gem in medicine shops, and front its situation right by the side of the greatest thoroughfare in the city, and irrespective of its healing drugs, the display of articles that appeal more to the fancy than the practical views of life, will present a powerful temptation to our fair sisters when engaged in the noble though expensive luxury of shopping. We observe a few items in the furnishing which reveal that thoughtful foresight that comes of residence for a time in Yankee land a little desk for example, with its little library of English and American medicine books, and with prescription forms ready for being filled in, is specially prepared for medical men while a neatly furnished retiring room, where one of the healing brethren has his city quarters, and with an entrance from the rear, ensuring privacy to the patients coming or retiring. All will contribute in no small degree to popularise the Pharmacy. We understand that it is intended by Mr Aickin that a leading principle in his conduct of the establishment will be to obtain at the very earliest date every new remedy of which he receives intelligence, as well as at any cost to keep the newest and freshest drugs. We have no doubt that the popularity which has attended Mr. Aickin during his residence in the Karangahape road will follow him and increase now that he has got into the very heart of the city and its whirl of business, and we have every expectation that his Pharmacy will be an unqualified success.

Auckland Star, 3 June 1872

Then, in 1879, a move into a new shop, in a new building -- 108-110 Queen Street.

 

The corner of Vulcan Lane and Queen Street as at 4 December 1917. Detail of Aickin's "The Pharmacy" at 108-110 Queen Street below. Reference 1-W1614, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

MR AICKEN'S PHARMACY.

The building recently erected by the side of St Mango Cafe, and designed as pharmacy for Mr Aicken, the well-known chemist, is a handsome addition to the street architecture of Auckland. It possesses a very neat and tasteful external appearance, and internally the fittings are as complete and excellent as skill and ingenuity could dictate. The Pharmacy occupies one half of the ground floor, the other half being fitted up as a cigar divan by Messrs Partridge and Woollams but all the cellarage accommodation and the whole of the upper story are at Mr Aicken's disposal, and most judiciously has he utilised them.

The shop opens on to the street of course, and in its adornment and ornamentation no expense has been spared. The counter runs at right angles to the street, and is as attractive and as chaste in design as the carver's handicraft and decorator's art could render it. It is fitted with the customary glass cases, and inside these the scents and other toilet requisites are arranged with a due attention to system. Extending along the end of the counter, and facing the entrance to the shop, is a very pleasing dispensing case, having in its centre a large mirror, while behind the counter are ranged row upon row of beautiful varnished drawers fitted with American drawer pulls.

The shop is paved with Minton mosaic work, and at the door the words "Aickin, chemist” are skilfully constructed with variegated flags. We understand that the fittings were executed by Mr John Harvie, the decorating by Messrs Holland and Butler, and that the carved cornice work surmounting the drawers was undertaken and finished by Mr Batts, of Ponsonby.

As we have already said the whole of the second storey is an adjunct of the

Pharmacy. Access to it is gained by a flight of stairs, and a spacious corridor runs along it; the rooms, four in number, being situated to the right and left of the two rooms at top of the stairs one is devoted to the reception of new goods in case and bulk, while the other is known as the warehouse and laboratory. In this latter apartment are stored poisons, subtle and potent, enough to poison the whole city, but so classified and arranged that no one can be unaware of their character. Of the two rooms which overlook the street, one on the left hand is the consulting room, and the other is intended for the accommodation of waiting patients. The consulting room is well furnished, while the patients rooms contains a table covered with interesting reviews, magazines and illustrated papers—a thoughtful contrivance for rendering the period of suspense which precedes the interview with the dreaded medico as little irksome as possible.

The cellar beneath the shop is used as a storehouse for the most valuable and combustible of the drugs and medicines and due care appears to be exercised in their storage. Speaking generally, the pharmacy is the most complete establishment of the kind we have visited in Auckland, and the most efficient and handsome manner in which it has been furnished and equipped discovers a laudable desire on the part of the proprietor to anticipate the wants and please the tastes of his patrons. In conclusion it may be stated that the architect, for the erection of the building was Mr Bartley.

Auckland Star 20 March 1879

He remained in business there until the middle of 1918 when he retired, and died aged 82 in 1923, at his home on Park Road.

Auckland Weekly News, 22 January 1914. Reference AWNS-19140122-54-3, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

By the 1930s, the building was no longer "The Pharmacy", Aickin's store now just a memory as the facade looked blankly upon the world.

Vulcan Lane corner, 1930s. Detail of the building below. Ref. 4-2529, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

Then, as we now know from the photos sent through by Paul, along came the 1960s, and the building once more became part of the health landscape of Auckland -- but the facade designed by architect Edward Bartley back in the 1870s was now completely obliterated. Poetic justice, perhaps, that the facade which covered over a relic from the 19th century, and our pharmacy history, has itself now become a relic this century.

The 100th for Auckland Town Hall

Updated 13 September 2024.

The grand old dame of Auckland's CBD, the Town Hall, was recently open to guided tours led by George Farrant, Auckland Council's heritage advisor (and the expert when it comes to the 1994-1997 restoration), plus an open day, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the building's official opening on 14 December 1911.

The apex of land at the junction of Greys Avenue and Queen Street on which the Town Hall sits had been set aside as a reserve right from the period of original Crown Grant land sales in the 1840s, just as the land on the other side of what was to become Grey Street, much later (20th century) Greys Avenue was optimistically declared a Market Reserve. After the filling of the gully through which Te Waihorotiu flowed, that site later became that of the Auckland Market Building, then a carpark, then the Aotea Square. But the apex reserve seemed to be a bit of a cinderella for most of the 19th century.

The apex reserve in the 1860s (centre) with Queen Street in the foreground, and Grey Street heading up the ridge towards Pitt Street. The Army and Naval Hotel can be seen at the far left -- this later became part of the Town Hall's site. Ref. 4-53, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

A pine plantation existed at the apex reserve land from at most the late 1860s to around 1900, along with a fire bell tower from 1871. The site of today’s Auckland Town Hall was once where the proprietors of the Army and Navy Hotel (c.1864-1884) did business, along with Evitt’s Building (c.1864-1908) which became Penzholz’s wickerwork factory before demolition in the 20th century. 

From after 1871 (July 1871 is when the Council decided to erect a firebell tower at the foot of Grey Street, according to the Auckland Star.) The pine plantation is well-established in this image. This could date from 1883. Ref. 4-54, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

The suggestion of the site on the apex between Grey and Queen Street as suitable for a Town Hall was first raised in 1872, and decided upon in 1873. In the early 1880s legislation was passed empowering the Council to purchase land for such a project, so gradually from that time private owners sold their land adjoining the apex site to the Council – and the project was on.

Both images from the Observer, 14 October 1893.

Even so, many alternative sites for the Town Hall were proposed, even as late as 1907, but Council had reaffirmed the choice of the Queen Street-Grey Street site in 1905, and stuck to their guns.

Auckland Weekly News, 21 March 1907. J J and E J Clark's winning design for the Town Hall. Ref. AWNS-19070321-2-2, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

The winning entry in a competition for the building’s design was that of the Melbourne architectural firm of J.J. and E.J. Clark. The building’s design, combined with the location, prompted criticism, one critic describing it as “a deformed wedge of cheese or a decrepit flat-iron”. Nevertheless, critique aside, the contract for the building’s construction was signed in October 1908, and the foundations were completed by 1 April 1909, along with the cellar walls as far as the lower ground floor. 

From Auckland Weekly News, 2 December 1909, looking south towards the Karangahape Road ridge. Queen Street is left, Grey Street to the right. The construction of the Concert Hall (left) and the Great Hall (right) can be seen, along with the brickwork (foreground) of part of the South Light Well area. The future municipal offices and Council Chambers would be in the section directly at the bottom of the image, out of shot. Ref. AWNS_19091202_p001_i002, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

From Auckland Weekly News, 7 April 1910. The Queen Street worksite for construction of the Town Hall. Must have been a heck of a difficult mission travelling up Queen Street past all that! Ref. AWNS-19100407-13-1, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

1910, showing the blocks of Oamaru Stone used as facing for the building being placed above the level of Melbourne basalt. During restoration, Council went to great lengths to match this stone as exactly as possible when replacing exterior ornamentations taken down in preceding years. According to George Farrant, this including a quarry worker in Oamaru abseiling down the face of the quarry, taking samples. 2-V1409, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

The architectural style of the building is a free treatment of the classic. The material used for the facades is "Oamaru" stone with a bluestone base. For the main Queen and Grey streets fronts a columnar method of design has been adopted. These two elevations terminate at the apex formed by the junction of the two streets in a segmental colonnade, surmounted by a tower 18 feet square and 130 feet high, with provision for 9 feet diameter clock dials. In front of this colonnade is a terrace enclosed by a stone balustrade with provision for a statue at the extreme angle. A feature of the construction of the building is the arrangement of the foundations. The great depth of a good rocky stratum necessitated a special treatment. Accordingly concrete piers have been carried down at intervals to the rock and the spaces spanned by concrete beams cairying the walls. All these beams are reinforced with "Kahn" steel bars. This method of piers and beams has been used by the architects, Messrs. Clark, in several important buildings in Australia ...

Progress, 1909.

From Progress, 1 May 1909, showing east and west elevations of the Town Hall.

Auckland Weekly News, 2 February 1911. The dome being carefully hoisted to the top of the clock tower. Ref. AWNS-19110202-12-5, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

The clock in the tower was donated by former mayor Arthur Myers.

The building opened on 14 December 1911, with “the celebrations extending into a week of cultural bacchanalia.” The first public show was by the Huddersfield Bellringers Band, “direct from the London Hippodrome”.

From the Observer, 18 December 1911

The difference in level between Queen and Gray streets, makes an upper and a lower ground floor. The great hall is situated on the lower floor, level with Grey street, and adjacent to it is a large supper room under the small hall, which is on a level with Queen street. These halls are arranged so as to be en suite with the Mayor's rooms for the convenience of public receptions. They have ample escape doors direct into the street. The public staircases and landings throughout will be fireproof. Every convenience has been provided in the way of dressing rooms and lavatories, both for performers and the public, and the retiring and cloak rooms will be most commodious, and there is a large smoke room. In connection with the supper room is a large kitchen and serving room conveniently placed at one end and arranged so as to provide for the largest functions.

Progress 1909

Some sources put the value of the original construction of the Town Hall at around £126,000. If so, in today's terms, that's nearly $20M. (Amusingly, the Auckland City Harbour News of 21 December this year, reporting on the centenary, simply doubled the 1911 figure, changed it to dollars, and then described it as "around half the average price of a house in Auckland today." Another Auckland heritage fallacy is born ...)  The restoration work in 1994-1997 cost around $33M (according to the ACHN), strengthening areas like the floors you see here, applying a special U-shaped truss to the Great Hall, and going a lot of extra miles to try to recreate the same tiling patterns and even carpet designs as they were before alterations and modernising in the mid 20th century.

Up above, impossible to notice with the eye, thin carbon-fibre-reinforced polymer strips were glued to the underside of the concrete slab floors. This strengthened the floors, without significantly adding to the depth.

The main entrance to both halls is in Queen street, a grand staircase 12 feet wide leading down to a large crush room off which are the cloak rooms before mentioned. Above the entrance vestibule is a large promenade and lounge on the level of the galleries. 

 Progress 1909

The flooring was the topic of an anecdote George Farrant told those of us on the 15 December morning tour. Apparently, one kind of brown tile eluded the team while they were trying to find a match for what remained of the original flooring. Then, in a McDonalds of all places, brown tiles were spotted. A piece uplifted carefully from the Town Hall was hurriedly taken to the restaurant, compared, and found to be a match with the one specially made for the restaurant chain. With McDonalds' assistance, the Council were able to source a supplier for the tiles -- and fill in some of the gaps back at the Town Hall.

Through this post, you'll see I've taken photos of windows, especially like these, showing wonderful Art Nouveau patterns. I'd noticed, while walking through the various areas, that each part of the Town Hall had different patterned windows, unique to each chamber or area.

The small hall comprises a ground floor and gallery, accommodating together 800 persons and 150 in the chorus gallery. The galleries of the two halls are constructed on the most up-to-date principles, being carried by steel cantilevers, thus leaving the ends of the halls free from obstruction both for seeing and dancing. 

 Progress 1909

The Concert Hall's windows.

Auckland Weekly News, 21 March 1907. Impression of what the Great Hall might look like, probably from the Clark & Clark  design. Ref. AWNS-19070321-3-1, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

Auckland Weekly News, 2 January 1935. Civic reception in the Great Hall for the visit of Prince Henry, Duke of Gloucester. Ref. AWNS-19350102-41-1, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

The great hall includes a ground floor. balcony and gallery, the whole capable of seating 3000 persons, exclusive of 350 in the chorus and orchestra. The organ space provides for an organ which will be the largest in New Zealand, the electric apparatus of which will be situated in the cellar underneath. The orchestra platform is made to slide under the choir front, thus giving more dancing space on the main floor when required, making a total area of 122 feet by 75.

Progress 1909

The Great Hall was where I was inundated by nostalgic memories. Back at primary and intermediate school, I was a member of school choirs. Now, I am not a great singer. Mainly, I think I was included because, although the musical side of my voice wasn't in anyway magical, I had a lot of lung power, and therefore could control volume. (These days, I don't sing in public, I talk there instead). But -- I did, at least once, perform during a concert of massed choirs from a lot of other schools in the Great Hall here. I think I was standing just to the left of the organ pipes, on one of those wooden steps.

Another time, I was here on a school trip to listen to the Vienna Boys Choir. That time, we were seated up here, in the seats photographed just above.

Two more occasions that came to mind -- sitting down there, listening in 1975, probably November that year, to Robert Muldoon charging up the troops of National Party supporters towards his victory in that year's election. Banners, balloons, a lot of music and noise. His state funeral was held here in 1992.

And in the 1980s, attending PSA union meetings, deciding on what steps to take during government service restructuring. I don't think any other building in the central city, aside from perhaps the library and council archives complex, holds so many memory triggers for me as does the Auckland Town Hall.

16 September 1920. The Great Hall laid out for a meeting of the Auckland Orphan Club (which had the intriguing motto: "All Ye Who Enter Here, Abandon Care." Ref. 4-1796, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

The original 1911 organ was donated by another former mayor, Henry (later Sir Henry) Brett, also well-known as a journalist, as the man behind the Auckland Star, and as a historian in his own right. The organ was largely replaced by a redesign and installation of 4000 new pipes in 1970. The original look of the 1911 organ was restored from 2010, costing around $3.5M.

16 September 1920, apparently taken on the same day as the previous historic image. Ref. 4-1798. Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

The rear windows to the Great Hall now blocked off.

A couple of up-close views of the organ.

The north (plain brick) and south (painted brick) lightwells were originally open to the air, to provide ventilation spaces for the performance halls section to the south, and the municipal offices section to the north. During the 1990s restoration, with the installation of air conditioning replacing the need for air ventilators, the lightwells were sealed in.

Up until relatively recently, this was the Council meeting chamber. Another memory of mine, coming here just a few years ago, during the first of John Banks' two terms as Mayor. I'm not sure I recall exactly what the issue was that brought me here, but I remember sitting in the public gallery, listening to the councillors.

A mayoral chair?

The grand building in 1920. Ref. 1093-ALBUM-214-5, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Council Libraries.

I'll do another post shortly about some of the objects of interest in the Town Hall.