Chancery's changes

Again, buying a postcard led to me doing a bit of research to satisfy my own curiosity as to some of the story about a part of Auckland. The Chancery Street area has come up time and again, mainly from the 19th century references to it being something of a near-slum area by the 1860s. In the detail above from the 1866 Vercoe and Harding map of Auckland (NZ Map 18, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library), the area I looked into is from the second Wesleyan Chapel (left, fronting the corner of High Street and Chancery Street, on Allotment 27 Section 4, City), the Mechanics' Institute building alongside (Allotment 26), William Street through Allotment 25, and "Chancery Lane" through Allotment 24.

This latter accessway between Chancery Street and Victoria Quadrant (Kitchener Street) came to be known as "Bacon's Alley", after William Bacon, proprietor from the 1850s of the Oddfellows Arms Hotel, located at the corner of Chancery Street and the lane which would come to bear his name. Bacon purchased land in the area as early as 1843, but lost it to the Improvement Commissioners in the early 1870s when Auckland City Council took over the area to try to create a road link from Coburg Street (part of Kitchener Street now, south of of Victoria Street West) and Shortland Street.

For the purpose of obtaining such access it will be necessary that a new street should be formed from Victoria Quadrant, in the vicinity of the Wesleyan Chapel into Shortland-street, and thence into Fort-street, near its junction with Commerce-street; and that Victoria street should be extended into Victoria Quadrant, over land the property of Mr Thomas Outhwaite. To effect this it is expedient that lanes and private alleys in the vicinity of Chancery-street should be abolished, and that several houses and huts there should be removed, and that Chancery-street should be widened. The Commissioners by this Act, seek to obtain compulsory powers for the purchase of the estate interest, and rights of all persons in the land and houses required for the formation of such streets and works, and for the abolition of such lanes and private alleys as aforesaid, and for the acquisition of lands and houses adjacent to the same for re-sale by the Commissioners after the new streets have been formed and the old streets widened.

 (Star 23 May 1873)

That road link was meant to provide more direct access between the port and the sections being divided up for lease and sale by the Improvement Commissioners (see also my posts of the Drill Hall and Princes Street). But -- it didn't come to pass. The main effect was that the Wesleyan Chapel site, the Mechanics Institute, William and Bacon's Lanes all became property of Auckland City Council, much this remaining in Council hands until the mid 1980s.

But, I'm getting ahead of myself, here ...

Above, the Chancery area c.1857, from the lower slopes of Barrack Hill (Albert Park), in the vicinity of today's Bowen Avenue. The prominent building centre right was the second Wesleyan Chapel fronting High Street. To the right of the chapel, just across an un-named accessway which became Courthouse Lane in the 20th century, the Auckland Mechanic's Institute. The roadway from left to right is Victoria Quadrant (now part of Kitchener Street). Ref 4-864, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The original Wesleyan Chapel was wooden, and built 1843 on the same site.  In 1846 (New Zealander 28 March), the chapel was enlarged, but in 1848 it was completely replaced by a brick structure (New Zealander 18 October 1848). This sparked off a heritage mystery which still lingers. The Silverdale and Districts Historical Society have a wooden chapel on their museum site which, it is claimed, is the old High Street chapel, after having been relocated to Parnell, and then to the Wade (now Silverdale) in 1860. But original deeds and documentation proving the High-street to Parnell to Wade links have been lost.

According to the New Zealander, 12 May 1849, the chapel was converted by that time into the Wesleyan Day School, adjoining the new chapel. It was still there Christmas Day 1852 (New Zealander). As the Sunday School, it appears to have remained in that position right down to 1874, when the Improvement Commissioners bought the property from the church trustees (Southern Cross, 22 May 1873). I've found one reference to a Wesleyan Chapel at "Wade Bridge" by 1866 (Southern Cross, 3 February) so, I tend to think at this stage that the chapel at Silverdale wasn't from High Street.

The same scene, c.1869. Where this bloke is sitting is now the busy road called Bowen Avenue. Ref 4-3390, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

Two images stitched together, from the 1860s, showing the view from another vantage point on what is now lower Albert Park. Refs 7-A5474 and 7-A5475, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The scene in the early 1870s. Ref 4-8996, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

In 1875, the Improvement Commissioners proposed to offer the brick chapel to the Mechanics' Institute, in return for the Institute's land so that the connecting road could be pushed through. (Star, 2 September 1875) Nothing came of that, but St Paul's School did use the old Wesleyan schoolroom at the rear of the chapel for a time from 1876. (Southern Cross, 9 June) But the chapel and its site between High Street and Victoria Quadrant was to take on a new role -- that of the Magistrates and Police Courts, and (later) the Land and Deeds office.

A petition, very largely signed by members of the legal profession, Justices of the Peace, and prominent citizens, is about to be presented to the Hon. C. C. Bowen, Minister of Justice, having for its object the shifting of the District Court, Resident Magistrates' Court, and Police Court, to the old Wesleyan Chapel, in High-street ... The Wesleyan Chapel is a large and commodious edifice. By the expenditure of a moderate sum every convenience could be secured. The mere shifting of the Court house would save to the public and the profession in a single year all the costs of the improvements five times multiplied. The Minister of Justice will do well to accede to the prayer of the petition, as a public benefit of no inconsiderable extent will be secured. 

Auckland Star 10 April 1876

"Watercolour painting by Walter Wright showing the Mechanics Institute which was situated on the corner of High Street and Chancery Street, the ramp at the right led to Courthouse Lane." Ref 4-675, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library. The lane to the left appears to have been just a blind access lane -- now all part of today's Chancery development.

The Mechanic's Institute, 1880s, probably before conversion briefly as the Auckland Public Library. The beginning of Courthouse Lane can be seen in the foreground, at that point simply a pedestrian access. Ref 4-25, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The old Mechanics' Institute, one of the few links between past and present day Auckland, is to be demolished in the course of a week or two, after an existence of over 60 years. The building, a quaint old one, adjoins the Magistrate's Court at the corner of High-street and Chancery-lane, and though for some time past its dignity has been disturbed by the hubbub of the workroom, some 30 or 40 years ago it boasted the name of  "The Mechanics' Institute," and for many years the front portion of the building was used as a public hall, where matters of great national import were ofttimes heatedly discussed with all the fire and spirit of the "good old days." The library which was attached to the Institute after a time fell on luckless days, and after futile efforts had been made to interest the Government in its behalf, it was in 1879 offered to the City Council as a free gift to form the nucleus of a public library. The offer was accepted, and in 1880  the Free Public Library came into being, continuing in the old building till 1887, when it was transferred to the present building by virtue of the Costley bequest, and Sir George Grey improved the occasion by donating his splendid collection of books and other treasures to the institution.

Auckland Star 23 September 1909

"Looking from Bowen Ave (right), Victoria Quadrant now Kitchener Street (left) showing the Northern Club(centre) and Albert Park (right)", 1880s. Ref 4-133, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The Chancery area in the 1880s. The former chapel building is now extended, with what appears to be front and rear porches, serving as the district and police court. Ref 4-140, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The Chancery district, in Hickson's 1882 map of Auckland (NZ Map 91, Sir George Grey Special Collections). Courthouse Lane has yet to be mapped, but probably existed as an unofficial access past the Mechanics' Institute building. William and Bacon Lane are survivors (although William Bacon's Oddfellows Hotel didn't). Another lane further east, shown in 1866, didn't last.

The Court House in High Street, formerly the Wesleyan Chapel, unknown date. Ref 4-774, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

In 1880, the Crown took over the former Wesleyan Chapel site as a Residents Magistrate's court and Police court. (Star 16 March 1880) The District Court's sessions opened there 14 March 1881. (Star 21 March) By 1911, the building had become the Land and Deeds office, as the district court moved to the new building fronting Victoria Quadrant.

This is the postcard which attracted my attention to all this: the NZ Express Company's Central Sample Rooms, at the top of Courthouse Lane, fronting Victoria Quadrant, from 1906.

I especially like this detail of two of the company's carts, ready and waiting for service. Courthouse Lane, as can be seen, was quite narrow.

In this detail from a 1909 plan (DP 2789, LINZ records, crown copyright), Courthouse Lane isn't even named. The site of the Central Sample Rooms building is in yellow.

Originally four storeys, the company added two more in 1913 (ACC 213/83k, Auckland Council Archives). The site was leased to NZ Express from 1903 by the Council (NA 113.13) until 1945 when the site was leased to Nagel Creations, manufacturers of lingerie.

Auckland city, viewed from the Grand Hotel, 1910s. Chancery Street is on the right. Photographer unidentified. Reference Number: 1/1-002803-G, Alexander Turnbull Library.

In the above image, Albert Park is to the left, Chancery Street to the right, the Central Sample Rooms just left of centre (and by then built up to 6 storeys), with the Police Court/Deeds Office just to the right of the Sample Rooms, other side of Courthouse Lane.

Then in 1985, Council sold the land first taken over by the Improvement Commissioners more than a century before for a road which was never created. NZI engaged in a massive redevelopment of the area, involving the closing of William (now Warspite) Lane, closing and re-creating Bacons Lane as a broad street to the east, and the demolition of the existing buildings, including the old Central Sample Rooms by 1988-1989.

So, today -- this is Courthouse Lane from lower Albert Park. Left is the former courthouse building (referred to in this post), while to the right is the new building (1990s) in place of the Central Sample Rooms. Oddly, it fills much the same footprint.

Closest I could get to recreating the 1906 postcard's view. There has been much in the way of foliage growth on the hill since then ...

I quite like the new building. A pity the old one is gone, but it had been altered and added to over the years, and was simply the standard Edwardian mercantile style. However this one does indeed look quite smart -- and if you want a nice cuppa and a meal, go to the coffee shop right on the corner there. They cook a wonderful eggs benedict.

This is more or less what Warspite Lane has become -- a set of steps, leading to Chancery Square. All now a far, far cry from the seedy hotels, infamous brothels, grimy streets and places of learning and worship in the edge of the ridge.

A taste of electric rail

A friend gave me a head's-up about this promo model of a cab of an electric train currently on display at Newmarket Station.

General Assembly Library, Wellington

Edited 24 June 2014.

When I got this postcard on TradeMe recently, I didn't think it would take a bit of untangling of internet sources to tweeze out a history of the building. Heritage New Zealand (formerly NZ Historic Places Trust) have this summary which doesn't give the full story, really. The best one can be found here via nzhistory.net.

Apparently, in 1857, the Wellington Provincial Council had their Council Chambers constructed -- but seemingly with an eye to the future, which arrived in 1865, when the capital shifted from Auckland to Wellington, and the Provincial Council building was ready and waiting for the Government to move right in. In 1873, the original building was extended and altered, as the affairs of running our far-flung colony became more and more involved and complicated.

Parliament buildings, Wellington, [ca 1880] Reference Number: 1/2-018471-F. Alexander Turnbull Library

Reference Number: 1/2-C-16700-F Wood engraving showing women sitting in the Ladies' Gallery, Parliament House, Wellington. Taken from the `Graphic', 13 November, 1880, page 484. Alexander Turnbull Library.

Showing a view of the Parliament Buildings and extensions in Wellington from Hill Street. Auckland Weekly News 21 July 1899. Ref AWNS-18990721-4-1, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The building was further enhanced, added-to and generally made grander in 1899, the start of an eight-year period in its existence. My postcard belongs to this period.

The Parliament Buildings.

Wellington, June 19. 

Work at the Parliament Buildings is being rapidly pushed on, and most of it, except that in the library portion, will be ready by the opening time with the exception of small details. The prevailing feature of the new building is the bright white walls of the interior, which are set off by terracotta pillars and extensive ornamental work. For the present there will be want of room, as there is not so much space available in the new edifice as in the portion it replaces, especially while the library remains unfinished. 

 Colonist 20 June 1899

Showing the Council Chamber of the New Zealand house of Representatives in Parliament buildings, Wellington. Auckland Weekly News, 22 June 1900. Ref AWNS-19000622-9-6, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library

NEW PARLIAMENT BUILDINGS

Most of the litter and debris which had accumulated inside and outside Parliament Buildings having been removed, the effect of the new structure can be better appreciated. In respect to style, it must be called a composite structure. It is disadvantageously placed, being overshadowed by what is known as the Speaker's wing, an old fashioned wooden edifice which is higher than the front entrance, and except for its Gothic windows possesses no style whatever. This portion of the present block will be replaced by the corresponding wing of the new structure facing the north-east. 

To many people, the low entrance of the new building gives a somewhat squat appearance to the whole. When completed, however, it will still look a handsome structure, notwithstanding its composite character. The internal work deserves the highest praise. Some experts have been at work night and day on the interior for the last three months. The ornamentation is in the finest cement, and exhibits some of the finest workmanship seen in the colony. The vestibule is admirable. The staircase which conducts the visitor to the upper committee rooms and corridors leading to the Legislative Council, is admirably conceived. The Sergeant-at-Arms' room, the Cabinet room, the messengers' room, the clerk and assistant clerks' rooms are fitted with panelled ceilings and cornices. The vestibule panels are supported by round pilasters with floral caps, the shaft being of a brown red color, and having an excellent effect, for they are placed round the whole of the walls. The entrance doors are excellent. The flooring is composed of tiles, having the Royal Arms on either side. 

What is known as the long lobby is painted a dull green, with white mouldings. When the furniture is arranged, the whole of the compartments mentioned will have a bright and comfortable appearance. But the principal room upstairs is the library. It is an apartment of noble dimensions. There is, perhaps, not another room in the colony that approaches it for effect or convenience. It cannot be the receptacle for the books this year, because the walls are scarcely dry. The workmen are busy in painting the new building the "yellowish stone" color of the Speaker's wing. This seems incongruous, but it is a defect that will be easily amended. 

Poverty Bay Herald 21 June 1899

Zachariah, Joseph 1867-1965: Crowd outside Parliament Buildings, Wellington, celebrating Dominion Day, Thursday 26 September 1907 Reference Number: 1/2-153019-F Crowd outside Parliament Buildings, Wellington, celebrating Dominion Day on Thursday 26 September 1907. There are flags draped across the roof and also a line of flags flying from one side of the Parliament Buildings to the other. The statue of John Ballance can be seen near the middle of the photograph. Photograph taken by Joseph Zachariah. Alexander Turnbull Library.

Then, just two months after all the pomp of celebrations around our Dominion status in 1907 -- disaster.

1907 fire at Parliament Buildings, Wellington, 11 December 1907 Reference Number: 1/2-022885-F The fire at Parliament buildings on the 11th of December, 1907. Shows a crowd in the foreground and hoses following up through the gate to the Legislative Council steps. Sydney Street West is visible. Photographer unidentified. Alexander Turnbull Library.

THE DESTROYED BUILDINGS. A DESCRIPTION. 

Standing out boldly on a gradual eminence fronting Molesworth-street, and flanked on either side by Sydney and Hill-streets, the Parliamentary Buildings, now a blackened ruin, formed an imposing and handsome pile. Built at a time when men feared to build of brick in Wellington city, because of the restlessness of Mother Earth, the greater portion of the huge block was of wood, the exception being a new wing on the western side of the building in which the library, which was saved, was housed.

The danger of destruction of the main building by fire has long been apparent, and the re-building of the wooden structure in brick was decided upon by Cabinet some years ago. The size of the building made this a very costly undertaking, and the work was put in hand in sections. The valuable library was first housed in brick, and then came a hiatus of several years, when the general reconstruction in brick was determined upon, the first contract, which included the extension and replacement of the western side, having been let during the last recess …

The building, exclusive. of the brick annexe, was one of the largest wooden buildings in the world, although considerably smaller than the Treasury Buildings on Lambton Quay, which takes pride of place in regard to wooden structures the world over. The area covered was very extensive, and the destroyed portion contained both Houses, the chambers of the House of Representatives and of the Legislative Council, in addition to the various galleries, cabinet room, committee rooms, the Speaker's quarters, and Ministers rooms.

Parliament House was erected, in 1873 from plans prepared by the Colonial Architect, Mr. Clayton, and there has been a great deal of alteration and reconstruction since. The Parliamentary Buildings were previously on the same site, but owing to the ravages of dry rot the reconstruction of the buildings had to be undertaken… In the recess of 1883-4 extensive alterations were made, a system of ventilation being established, and special appliances being laid on to heat, purify, and distribute air through the building. In 1898 a contract was let for a new wing in brick for the housing of the library, and to minimise risk in the event of fire. This was built with but one entrance, a double fireproof door on the ground floor just inside the entrance, all other portions of the interior walls being absolutely solid, a barrier which has proved effective, except in the case of Bellamy's, on the south of the library, being thus offered to the progress of flames from the wooden building …

The saving of the library is fortunate indeed. It is a very valuable collection, containing over fifty thousand volumes, and including an invaluable and unique collection of New Zealand literature, newspaper files and pamphlets. To the late Alfred Domett, statesman, poet, and ripe scholar, is due the title of father of this grand collection of literature. He commenced his labour of love while Premier, in 1862, and continued it during his residence in the colony until 1871. The banding contains two storeys and a basement, sociological works and fiction being stored on the ground floor, and works of reference on the upper. The value of this library cannot be estimated, and its destruction would have been a tremendous loss to the colony, for no amount of money could replace some of the volumes and records …

Auckland Star 11 December 1907

1907 fire at Parliament Buildings, Wellington, 11 December 1907 Reference Number: 1/2-008517-F Fire at Parliament Buildings, on the corner of Molesworth and Hill Streets, Wellington, 11th of December, 1907. Photographer unidentified. Alexander Turnbull Library.

The surviving part of the building became the General Assembly Library building, witnessing further changes on the site as Parliament Buildings, and later the Beehive were erected during the 20th century.

Parliament Buildings, Molesworth Street, Wellington, ca 1928 Reference Number: 1/2-068827-F Shows Parliament Buildings and the General Assembly Library in Molesworth Street with the Tinakori hills in the background. Photograph taken ca 1928. Alexander Turnbull Library.

Interior of the General Assembly Library (later known as the Parliamentary Library) in Wellington, photographed by Jeremy Garvitch circa 1940s-1950s. Shows a Gothic revival style room, featuring rows of books on bookcases. 

Reference Number: PAColl-0074-1-05, Alexander Turnbull Library.

General Assembly Library, Wellington, November 1955 Reference Number: 1/2-177170-F View of the General Assembly Library (now the Parliamentary Library) from the front from Parliament grounds, taken by Morrie Hill. 
Alexander Turnbull Library.

During work on refurbishing the library in the 1990s, fire struck yet again in 1992. But, it survived.

Reference Number: EP/1992/F4816/4A-F Flames bursting from the roof of the General Assembly Library building, Parliament Buildings, Wellington. Photographed by an Evening Post staff photographer on the evening of the 19th of October 1992. Alexander Turnbull Library.

Master plasterer, Ian Colquhoun standing framed by the wooden gothic tracery of a window in the Parliamentary Library building. Photographed by an unknown Evening Post staff photographer on the 1st of July 1995. 

Reference Number: EP/1995/1956/5A-F. Alexander Turnbull Library.

At the foot of Albert Park

Yesterday, on the way to the central library, I hopped off the bus a stop early to get some shots for another upcoming post here -- and ended up photographing more than I intended. Anyway ... it was high time I visited the lower part of Albert Park, separated from the main area by Bowen Avenue these days.

In the above shot, the (rather interesting, I think) tall building to the right of the palm is Metropolis Hotel, fronting onto High Street. More on this, later.

Bowen Avenue, named after the 19th century governor, is a bit of an afterthought (created after Albert Park ceased to be the military base it was), but it is one heck of a busy afterthought! This is the main route up out of the Queen Street/Victoria Street gully for midtown route buses. I've travelled this way by bus thousands of times over the years (and hoofed it uphill a few times. Gasping.)

From the part of Kitchener Street which was once Victoria Quadrant (part of Felton Mathew's grand dreams for the city), this part of Albert Park on a fine winter's day looks inviting. All of this, though, was formed and planted in the 20th century. Victoria Quadrant, at the top of Courthouse, the now-vanished Warspite, and Bacons Lanes was originally partly deep gully until everything was filled in and smoothed out.

Until Council put a chain across this part during the past couple of years, motorists were treating it as a free parking space. This is a visible part of the World War II Albert Park Tunnels complex, entry No. 6.

Then, there is the former Auckland District Court building.

Still looking wonderful, 100 years after construction.

But, there have been changes.

Today, it serves only as the entry to the Metropolis Hotel in behind.

But -- at least it isn't just a facade.

This, on the southern corner of Kitchener and Victoria, is the former Kapai Broom Company building.

Some colour at the top of Victoria Street East ...

Right next to a huge neighbour, in the form of the "Gateway" artwork, by Chris Booth.

I was working in the city from 1986-1992, and would surely have seen the installation underway from around 1990. I have vague memories, but nothing I'd say was definite. For something that's survived 22 years beside a busy traffic junction, the planning starting from before one amalgamation, and now having seen through yet another -- this piece is not doing badly at all.