Re-opening of Alice Wylie Reserve, Mt Albert

Last Saturday, I attended the reopening of the Alice Wylie Reserve in Mt Albert. This park can be found at the corner of New North Road (right side of image above), and Burch Street. It was declared a reserve in 1980, and formally taken over by the Mt Albert City Council in 1982, the year the council named it after Alice Wylie, then a sitting member. Personally, they couldn't have honoured a nicer person than Mrs Wylie, who always has a smile and a warm clasp of the hand when she meets me.

The early 1980s setting out of the park resulted in this recessed bus stop, one of my favourites in the city -- and thankfully, not painted over yet with hideous grey anti-graffiti tag-out paint. Long may it stay that way.

The gates aren't original. The first ones here were removed recently.

Beyond the gates, the park itself. A tad gloomy on the westward side, and this was a fairly bright July morning.

The installation of this interpretive sign hadn't been long completed. The groundsman, a nice chap, came along shortly afterward and cleaned everything up.

Very nice design, having a timeline history of the park instead of short paragraphs around themes and such. I did research work on this -- and I must say, I was impressed with how they presented the information. The new Auckland Council are certainly earning their marks when it comes to such signage around the city.

This corner is interesting, because just beyond those trees to the right ...

Ref. 7-A4621, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library

... was the main building used as an industrial school (1900-1917) and a little later as a school hostel for Mt Albert Grammar (1927-1971). The circular path in front has been retained.

The house was built for solicitor John Macky Alexander, a gentleman’s residence of 16 rooms with 6 acres of what was later advertised as rich volcanic land bounded by New North Road, Burch Street, and Asquith Ave, 4½ acres in paddocks and the remainder “tastefully laid out in gardens, shrubbery, and orchard”. He died suddenly in 1892.

Charles Henry and Florence Isobel Wilks bought the property. Charles Wilks was a partner from 1895 with E H Potter in the firm Tanfield, Potter & Co, crockery merchants. In March 1900, the Wilks family sold the property to the Crown for £1600, so that the Auckland Industrial School could be transferred from Parnell to Mt Albert.

There are two small memorials here.

Close to the centre of the park, this sign for the sculpture Statue of a Cloaked Woman, by Christine Hellyer (1995). For something supposed to be prominent, I couldn't for the life of me see where it was. So I asked the groundsman, who pointed it out -- in the midst of one of the rock gardens.

They've just done some lovely replanting here -- and you have to go over that to see the sculpture and read the plaque. No paths to this artwork.

For me, though, the trees are a work of art.

The owner of the bike did kindly hold off resting his conveyance against the tree until I got the shot. Very nice of him (thanks).

I knew there was another part to the park's story nearby, so headed off toward Burch Street.

This is looking back in the direction of the Alice Wylie Reserve.

Turning around, you'll see this.

According to the Mt Albert Historical Society. both the industrial school's matron Miss Sarah Jackson in 1901 and 1911, and later Sir Algernon Thomas for the Mt Albert Grammar's hostel in 1937, are said to have planted coronation oaks hereabouts. There are also supposed to be two commemorative plaques at this small reserve.

If there is such a plaque beneath this tree, the ivy hides it well.

The other oak has its plaque -- behind the tree.

The plaque simply says the oaks were planted for the coronations of Edward VIII, George V and George VI.

Back to the re-opening ceremony. Prior to the formalities getting underway, the crowd were entertained by a string quartet, and had the promise of a dainty high tea at the conclusion.

The day, though, belonged to Alice Wylie.

Friends of the Civic website

A comment came through this morning from Leonie Norton that a new website is online from the Friends of the Civic. Definitely worth a look, packed with history of Auckland's favourite cinema, and photos of the interiors and promotional material through the years.

Basque Park

Red outline of the extent of Basque Park today, overlaid on map of legal descriptions from LINZ website - crown copyright.

A reader named Philip Kirk emailed me back in early May, asking the question: why was Basque Park established?

Short answer: because, at the time, it was felt that there were too many dingy houses in the neighbourhood, and the rest of the neighbourhood (of less dingy houses) needed a kiddie’s playground.

But – here’s the long answer.

In April 1938, the City Treasurer informed the Council Town Clerk that there were three sections in Basque Road, owned by executors of George Holdship, Auckland timber dealer in the last half of the 19th century, where the rates had remained unpaid since 1932. These sections were in a gully between part of Basque Street (now closed and part of the park) and Newton Street (now Norwich Street). The executors were open to the idea that, in lieu of the overdue rates, the Council could have title to the land. The Council thought this was an opportunity to set up a children’s playground there, and the Parks Committee considered a report by the City Engineer in October 1938, which supported the proposal and urged that work proceed quickly “so that advantage may be taken of subsidised labour.”

“On account of the difficult topography, its awkward shape and smallness of size, this property could not within itself be developed as a children’s playground, but in conjunction with certain of the adjacent areas it presents reasonable opportunities for that purpose.

“The gully in which it is situated is at the head of a narrow valley which stretches from Exmouth Street to Newton Gully. It occupies the back yards of a number of narrow, elongated properties fronting Norwich Street and some low-lying vacant lots off the end of Rendall Place. A watercourse follows the floor of the gully, most of which is covered with deleterious growth, and in its present state, is a potential harbourage for vermin and rats, and cannot be put to any useful purpose.”

(City Engineer’s report, 27 September 1938)

For a while, though, there was a difference of opinion between the Parks committee, which felt that the Holdship land should be taken over, and the Financial committee, which wanted the overdue rates to simply be written off. The latter committee eventually resolved to approve takeover of the property in May 1939, while the City Engineer recommended in a memo to the Town Clerk that near £5,500 worth of surrounding land should be acquired.

[Council budgeted] £1000 for a proposed children's playground in Basque Road, Eden Terrace …

(Auckland Star 15 June 1939)

The full Council approved the playground scheme in October 1939.

Children's Playground.—On the recommendation of the parks committee it was decided to negotiate for the purchase of a small area of land in the Basque Road Gully, near the intersection of New North' Road and Symonds Street, for a children's playground. The city engineer, Mr. J. Tyler, said the area was situated in a gully, and it was possible to obtain about one acre in extent. There was no children's playground anywhere in the district.

(AS 27 October 1939)

1940 aerial (from Auckland Council website) with original George Holdship estate allotments approximately marked in yellow.

From April-May 1940, surrounding landowners were approached by Council with offers to buy their land to add to the reserve.

The finance committee brought down a proposal for meeting the cost, estimated at £12,200, for the development of a children's playground in Basque Road, Eden Terrace. It was stated that £3500 had been placed on the current year's estimates, and £3300 was available from the sale of lands account, and £3200 from compensation for land taken for the central police station. The £2000 balance could be carried by next year's budget, unless other arrangements were made in the meantime. The recommendation was approved.

(AS 8 November 1940)

DECADENT AREAS.

"BLIGHT ON THE CITY."

The opinion that certain quarters of old Auckland badly required cleaning up, as they were a blight on a beautiful city, was expressed by the Mayor Sir Ernest Davis in a report presented at a meeting of the Auckland City Council last evening. He said that the retention of such areas in their present form was a reflection on a city of such recent establishment as Auckland, and he had often asked himself what was the use of having lovely parks, and other pleasurable amenities, when, close at hand, there were areas out of harmony with the planning of a modern city …

Mr J L Coakley [Chairman of the Parks Committee] said that they had already made a start at Basque Road, where old houses had been removed and three acres secured as a playing ground.

(AS 29 November 1940) 

Auckland Star 31 August 1940

Congratulations to the man unknown to me who has interested himself in the youngsters of Eden Terrace and their games in the unfinished Basque Road reserve. What a difference in the conduct of these children when they are encouraged in the right way and what a pity there are not a few more men of his kind about. RESIDENT.

(AS 19 February 1942)

"I hope that this ceremony will inculcate a respect for trees," said the Mayor, Mr. Allum, when addressing the annual gathering for the observance of Arbor Day, held this morning in the new park and children's playground near Basque Road, between Eden Terrace and Newton Road.

Children from the Grafton, St. Benedict's and Newton Central Schools attended the gathering, and school representatives aided in planting about 40 shelter trees, comprising pohutukawas, puriris, rewarewas, poplars, planes and acmenas …

About 40 Auckland schools had applied for trees for planting this year, making a total of 18,906 trees distributed to schools during the past seven years, said Mr. Coakley, who also mentioned that the Basque Road reserve would be completed next year, and that it would be possible to provide a small area where a collection of native trees could be planted to be of some educational value to children.

(AS 2 August 1944)

NEW CITY PARK

OFF EDEN TERRACE

COMPLETION THIS YEAR

Work on the construction of a small park and children's playground in the gully between Eden Terrace and Newton Road is nearing completion. Although the work has been in progress for the past three or four years, there have been several interruptions due to the war. When completed the park will offer playing facilities to children living in a densely-populated area of the city.

It is expected that the whole of the drainage work, cleaning up of the two and three-quarter acres, laying of paths and erection of fences will be completed before Christmas. The sowing of grass will be left until next autumn. In the early stages of the project the relaying of several old sewers was necessary. Filling for the lower section of the park was taken from the sides of the gully. Also involved was the closing of portion of Basque Road extending below Exmouth Street and the acquisition of several cottage properties on either side of the road. There is a frontage of 320 feet to Exmouth Street.

The figure quoted on this year's City Council estimates for the present stage of the scheme was £3000. Further expenditure will be necessary next year when application is made for permission to erect several buildings, such as conveniences and shelter sheds. It is thought that shortage of building materials may hold up this work to some extent. Playing apparatus will also be provided.

It is the City's Council's intention to institute a system similar to that formerly pertaining at Victoria Park whereby the children's recreation will come under the jurisdiction of the Department of Internal Affairs.

(AS 28 November 1944)

BASQUE ROAD RESERVE

WORK IN FINAL STAGES

The final stage in the construction of the Basque Road reserve, in the gully between Eden Terrace and Newton Road, has been reached. At present a retaining wall is being built and concrete margins for footpaths and concrete steps are being formed. Regrading of the area is also proceeding. The work has been in progress, with interruptions, for the past three or four years. Primary function of the reserve will be to supply playing facilities for the many children living in the district. Work yet to be done includes the formation of paths and the fencing both of the retaining wall and of the boundaries of the park. The sowing of the 2¾ acres with grass will be done next autumn.

(AS 30 January 1945)

Between 1945 and 1956, however, the land use around the park changed from predominantly residential to industrial. The late 1930s ideal of providing a place for the workers’ kids to play hadn’t kept up with the times. Paths were formed, stone retaining walls built and a children’s shelter built, but that was just about it.

“Concerning the use and the future use of the reserve, it is a fact that owing to the gradual industrial development the reserve has never been used as envisaged. This does not mean, of course, that the area should be disposed of, but rather that the use of same should be changed from children to adults. It is essential in all cities, particularly in heavily built-up areas, to provide a breathing space for workers, and such reserves as we have which are likely to become surrounded by industry should be retained for this purpose …

“Basque Road could, therefore, be changed as stated from a children’s playground into a recreation centre for adults …”

(Memo from Director of Parks and Reserves to Town Clerk, 22 August 1956)

1959 aerial, Auckland Council website.

More land was added in 1973, and the unformed lower part of Basque Road closed and also added to the park in 1974. In the same year, the Council agreed to provide play equipment for the park (does this mean it took 35 years to provide an actual playground?)

From the late 1950s, Council policy was to try to encourage residential development around the park, especially when adjacent land later became available as a result of the development of the link between Dominion Road and Upper Queen Street. But that same road development apparently stalled development in the area while the road designations were in place. More land between Macauley and Norwich Streets was added to the park during the decade. A housing development proposal with Housing Corporation was defeated by public protest from private land owners in the area. So, in 1986 and 1987, bulk filling (20,000-40,000 cubic metres) was undertaken using fill from the Aotea Centre building site, raising levels and attempting to reduce the grade.

In 1989, Council put forward a smaller residential development proposal, but one which would have involved the building of four blocks for 53 Housing Corporation flats on the park. Debate raged over this development clear through to the mid 1990s. Meanwhile, community gardens had been set up on the park in 1993 by a justice, peace and development group from St Benedict’s parish, and supported by the local community board.

“Back in 1993, the community board had enthusiastically encouraged the small justice, peace and development group from St Benedicts parish who wanted to start an urban farm in Basque Reserve. The group had support and small donations from about 250 people. These people dreamed of improving the inner-city concrete jungle while helping local people, especially the jobless, to learn how to grow their own food and enjoy the fruit of shared labour.

“And this happened. They began with a wasteland of solid clay, kikuyu and dockweeds but were soon composting richer and deeper soil. They had no water supply but a local factory owner gave them the run-off from his roof. Soon, many species of vegetables, fruit and flowers were flourishing and insects and birds came to join in the party.

“The "farm" - later called St Benedicts Community Gardens - grew with minimal funds but lots of goodwill. The community board granted money. There were community days when adults gathered with food and music. The children - guided by a local artist - painted the water tank. The garden became a delightful spot where passers-by sought refuge during lunch hours. There was no fence and anyone could stroll through. Many shared the vegetables and fruit.”

(NZ Herald 27 July 2000)

2008 aerial, Auckland Council website.

But, the community gardens were cleared out. More trees have been planted in the park, a reserve made of a patchwork quilt of land titles, changed over time at the whim of changing development patterns, political ideas, and its topography.

Memorial beneath an olive tree

I had cause to visit the Auckland War Memorial Museum again on 2 July. On leaving in the afternoon, I cut across one of the grassed areas to the east of the museum, at the top of Maunsell Street ...

... and spotted this plaque, set beneath an olive tree.

PLANTED IN THE MEMORY OF

PALESTINIANS

WHO HAVE SUFFERED AND DIED

IN THEIR STRUGGLE FOR FREEDOM

AND PALESTINE

PALESTINE HUMAN RIGHTS CAMPAIGN

AUGUST 23rd 1988 AUCKLAND DOMAIN

I sent an email via the Palestine Human Rights Campaign website. In response, Janfrie Wakim contacted me with information (thank you, Janfrie).

The present day organisation originated from a small group in 1974 called the Friends of the Arab People who got together in Auckland. Renamed Friends of Palestine, it was formalised in the early 1980s as the Palestine Human Rights Campaign. They have staged protests and pickets over the years, invited guest speakers from overseas, and held fundraising dinners for the cause of Palestinian human rights. A text book for schools has been produced to provide information on the Palestine/Israel situation.

In 1988 the olive tree was planted in the Domain, instigated by Janfrie Wakim's late husband David Wakim. The original plaque was stainless steel; in 2005, this was replaced by the present one in bronze. (David Wakim died suddenly in 2005.)

Considering the New Zealand legal system nearly carried out the arrest of former Israeli Defence Force chief of staff Moshe Ya'alon for war crimes against Palestinians in 2006 (a warrant was quashed by the Attorney General before it could be used to detain Ya'alon) -- it's a wonder this memorial hasn't had more notice. I couldn't find any trace in the Auckland Library indexes, for example. It's in a lovely spot, and passed by people and vehicles every day. I'm glad I spotted it.

Death in flames in the night

A non-New Zealand topic, this. I bought this postcard recently, and thought of my grandmother Elinor Smith who was in London during the zeppelin attacks of World War I.

The image, like a fish swimming in a dark sea, is a photo of 18 men dying in flames or falling to their death.

The feat of Lieuts. Sowrey and Brandon accounted for the second and third Zeppelin brought down in England in the space of three weeks; before a month had elapsed a fourth met its doom. It was the L31 which was brought down at Potter's Bar in the early hours of 1st October. Credit for its destruction is given, to "the anti-aircraft defence organisation," and up to the time of the inquest nineteen bodies had been discovered.

The importance of the destruction of the L31 is greatly enhanced by the disclosure that its commander was the ablest and most successful of German airship-commanders, Captain-Lieutenant Mathy, who boasted that down to September, 1915, he had taken part in every Zeppelin attack in England, and he thus had obtained a knowledge of English air conditions such as no other German officer possessed. Entering the German Navy in 1900, he made a great reputation as a bold destroyer officer. When Zeppelins were introduced he entered the air branch of the German Navy, and was specially selected to watch the trials of the first two. When war broke out he was placed in command of one of the largest and latest airships. Immediately after his September visit to London he gave to an American journalist a full description of his attack on the Metropolis and he said, "The English can darken London as much as they want, but they can never remove the Thames, from which we can always get our bearings. London was darkened, but there was sufficient light on this night to enable me to see its reflected glow in the sky nearly forty miles away shortly before 10 p.m.; soon the city was outlined silent below. A large city seen at night from a great height is a fairylike picture. There is no sign of life."

Then he proceeded to relate how he had dropped bombs, "with success," in the vicinity of the Bank of England, the Tower, and on certain railway stations. "There was a succession of detonations and bursts of flame, and I could see that I had apparently done great damage. I turned my L for home. We had not been hit. I have never experienced a fight with an aeroplane; in fact, I have never been bothered by them! The men are always at the guns watching for them. I am not afraid of them, and I think I could make it interesting for them."

All this happened a year ago. Conditions have changed and on this his last visit, things were made "interesting" for him by London's "anti-aircraft defence organisation," and the charred remains of Mathy and eighteen of his crew were disentangled from the .burning wreckage. A "bag”, of four Zeppelin-loads of baby-killers within the space of four weeks is not a bad record for England; one can only hope that it causes disturbance in Germany.

(Evening Post 14 November 1916)

There is already a fine article on the incident online: Decisions at Potter's Bar. Also The Potter's Bar Zeppelin, and a photo of a piece of the remains of L31.

By the rivers of Babylon

What's in a name?

Babylon Flats is one of those place names which has faded from use (at least where it once was), yet it dated back to the 19th century. It appears to have been the earliest European name given to the South Kaipara district, pre-dating McLeod's appellation of Helensville. According to C M Sheffield in Men Came Voyaging (1963, sec. reprint 1995, recently republished by Helensville & District Historical Society), Babylon was the Maori settlement at Otakinini, the main pa of Hauparoa of Ngati Awa in the lower Kaipara, early hunters of moa. The battle of Otakinini during the conquest of the area by Ngati Whatua from 1680 to 1730 "is considered to have marked the true conquest of Kawerau by Ngatiwhatua (sic)." The battle lasted three days, the pa falling when the defenders thatched huts caught fire.

Otakinini was apparently visited by Reverends Whiteley and Buller of the Wesleyan Mission in 1839. William Colenso from the Anglicans visited the district in 1842. Sheffield is silent as to how the pa/settlement came to be known as Babylon, but successive visits by missionaries probably left their mark.

(Judge Rogan’s Report).
The Ngatiwhatua tribe is divided into several families; those at Orakei are headed by Apihai Te Kawau; at Muriwai by Nopera; at Ongarahu by Te Tinana; and at Babylon by Te Otene …

(Colonist, 5 September 1862)

 Taranaki Herald 22 August 1863

Helensville itself is one of the most delightful spots, in this delightful district. It stands at the confluence of the Kaipara and Awaroa. rivers, and is surrounded on the east by a circular belt of high hills thickly covered with, bush except where the axe has laid low the dignitaries of the forest, which lie like so many bleached skeletons of trees, along the sides of the mountains as far as the eye can reach. To the west a level plain stretches away to the Coast range and comprising many thousand acres of alluvial land. On this there is a Maori settlement which consists of three houses several raupo whares, and rejoices in the pretentious name of Babylon. We believe its native citizens are staunch Maoris, good Christians, and very friendly.

(NZ Herald 12 Oct 1866)

THE SURVEY OF BABYLON.

Mr Weetman's survey party are at work on three blocks of Government land at Babylon, a few miles beyond Helensville in a westerly direction. Mr Weetman has had to encounter some difficulty on the part of the natives who have tried to stop him proceeding with the survey. The cause of the obstruction was the sticking of a pole and flag in the middle of an old Maori burial place. The latter is still used by the present generation to bury their dead in, and this fact invests the sacred ground with still more sacred associations, and as the pole was stuck in about two yards from the grave of a Maori who was buried a fortnight ago, the natives are most earnest in their protests. The burying ground is not on Government laud, but it is situated on an eminence which forms a favourable spot for a trig station, and the surveyors merely wish to use it for that purpose, and cannot make the Maoris understand the alpha and omega of a trig station. They think that as the surveyors are at work with surveyors' instruments that it means taking possession of the soil, and the young natives have got up their backs at the surveyors, asserting that the work must cease. The surveyors have referred the matter to the authorities at Helensville. Mr Clendon has undertaken the important duty of settling this little native difficulty and in his able hands there is not the slightest doubt but the Maori mind will be enlightened, and under his soothing explanations, that they will allow the surveyors at Babylon to proceed with their duties. The surveyors urge that they are not bound by the Act of 1878 to keep off the burying grounds; at the same time they avoid giving offence as much as possible. Natives are very easily offended by interference with their sacred grounds; and the bare idea of a surveyor's pole being rammed into the earth in close proximity to the bones of their ancestors would of course get the Maori back up at once. Mr Clendon started this morning to see Hotene Kikokiko, and other chiefs on the subject.

(Auckland Star 16 April 1880)

THE BABYLON DISTRICT.

Perhaps one of the most gratifying features in and around Helensville is the increasing attention paid to the reclamation of the land from a state of nature, so that when the timber is done with agriculture will replace it as a means of livelihood. In and around the township there is about 2000 acres under grass. Besides this a large area is in process of being cleared across the river, the erection of a fine bridge over it, and the laying out of a Government road through the Babylon block to the West Coast having greatly stimulated settlement in that direction. The Babylon block was sold by the Government not long ago at £2 per acre, and was taken up principally by small settlers. The land is of very good character, and is now changing hands at £3 and £4, some of it being held for £6. Some of the settlers intend to commence wheat-growing next season. The new road from the swing-bridge through Babylon to the West Coast, it is anticipated, will become a favourite route with tourists desirous of going to the coast, and of seeing the hot springs and lakes. Considerable traffic that way is expected during the coming summer and parties can ride along the ocean- beach on the sand for over twenty miles at a stretch. An Otago Scotch farmer, Mr. Stevenson, of Balclutha, within the last week or two, has taken up over two thousand acres, and with characteristic energy is losing no time in getting to work. Teams and agricultural implements have been already sent up, and from the smoke on the plain at the time of our visit it was evident he had commenced clearing operations. Perhaps one of the most grateful features to the eye on the landscape in looking from Helensville across the river in the Babylon direction, is the comfortable homestead of Mr. Hay, near the swing bridge, who has settled there within the last couple of years or so, and whose home with its picturesque surroundings is but a type of scores of others which within the next few years will dot the plain of Babylon.

(AS 25 September 1883)

By May 1893 – described as a location for gumdiggers from Austria and Russia (AS 16 May 1893)

By 1900, known as the “celebrated Babylon Flats”, a mile from Ambury & English’s creamery, and from Parkhurst Public School and Post Office, withind easy distance of Helensville Railway Station. (AS 23 June 1900)

Parkhurst: This district, which, in its original state, was mostly swamp and heavy ti-tree flat, was opened for settlement by the Government in 1880, and has since then made rapid progress owing to its position and the extra good quality of the land. Parkhurst school is about four miles from the township of Helensville, and the road is now metalled most of the distance. Midway is Messrs Ambury and English's creamery, which gets a large supply of milk from those who find that dairying suits them better than fattening cattle. Nearly opposite the creamery are the Hot Spring baths, the development of which only awaits the encouragement of capital and enterprise. From the rising ground there are very pretty views of the Kaipara harbour, and with its advantage of easy communication with Auckland by either road or rail, there are few places in the North Island to compare with Parkhurst. The road going through it terminates at the Kaipara Heads, where Mr. Alfred Buckland owns a large station. Parkhurst is forty-two miles from Auckland, and it has a bi-weekly mail service. 

(Cyclopedia of New Zealand 1902)

1905, advertised as being where Ambury & English had dairying land, 1.5 miles from the Helensville Railway Station. (Wang Chron. 25 Nov 1905)

Thirty years ago the Babylon Flats were offered to the late Judge Fenton for 2/6 per acre. To-day they are bringing anything from £30 to £35. Exactly why the old hands attached a Biblical title to this particular stretch of country it would be hard to say, but a probable explanation is that, like certain other people, the first-corners “sat down by the rivers of Babylon, and wept." In those days there was plenty of water about Babylon, and the price at which the late Judge refused to become an owner shows the popular estimate of its quality, so it is small wonder if the immigrants were depressed. The name has changed, and though the old-timers still speak of Babylon Flats, the post office and other unromantic officials only know Te Pua, Parakai, Parkhurst, and such like. And the place has changed, too. Now, folk no longer sit down, neither do they weep. They hustle round, and milk, and grow rich, frequently at the rate of £90 a month. The idle cow, lolling in the meadow, is the fairy godmother who has waved the enchanted wand over the scene. They literally live on cream at Babylon.

This rich bit of land lies right alongside Helensville —a piece of news which will come as a surprise to those whose knowledge of the district is limited to hearsay, or to a passing visit while en route to the Northern Wairoa. Many aeons ago the far-spreading Kaipara, vast inlet of the Pacific Ocean, must have covered a much larger area than it does now. As it receded, it left behind a deep rich deposit, and the subsequent alluvium from shorewards combining with this has left in the valley lying between Helensville and the ridge of high land which borders the west coast, some thousands of acres, which for dairying purposes could not well be surpassed.

Years ago, when settlement began to creep up north, this land was covered with manuka scrub, and swamps. Nobody took much stock in it, and its real importance dates from very recent times. If you said that Helensville must inevitably become one of the biggest dairying centres in the immediate vicinity of Auckland, there are still plenty of people who would smile politely … To those who used the township of Helensville merely as a half-way house it is pardonable if they misjudged it. For a long while the mud of its tidal creeks, its multitudinous mangroves, and the unpromising hue of its hills, where the rains had left the soil exposed, gave an impression that was far from inviting. After the timber was cut out of the adjacent forests, the mills were shifted or closed down, and the men moved on. This was a trying period in the history of the township. Dozens of houses were empty, and times got so dull that some were taken down and packed off to Auckland. There are in Mount Roskill to-day houses that began life by the shores of the Kaipara. Gradually settlement got back to its natural basics, and like the duckling in the fairy story, Helensville is just beginning to come into its own. The real progress of the district dates from the time that the “Babylonians" started dairy farming … 

 (AS 15 Oct 1910)

 By the middle of the 20th century, the name Babylon had drifted north, to the lands near Dargaville.

Just an interesting detail from the postcard.

Parking for bargains

Farmers Union Trading  Coy building, 5 February 1924, ref 1-W302, Sir George Grey Special Collections, 

Auckland Library

The Farmers Union Trading Company started at their Hobson Street premises in 1914 as a head office, then converted their premises to a department store from 1920.

 "Looking south along the west side of Hobson Street from the vicinity of Swanson Street showing Farmers Trading Company (right)", 30 March 1925, ref 4-2053, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library

Next to their site, a jumble of wooden buildings was transformed from 1928 into what is described by Ian Hunter in Farmers - Your Store for 100 Years (2009) as "the first free car park in Australasia," which opened with a large banner over the entrance, and space for 88 vehicles.

Farmers even opened its own service station in conjunction with the carpark, the "Lubritorium," offering customers service while they shopped; discount petrol for shoppers during the 1930s with proof of purchase, "for every £1 spent in store they got a gallon of petrol for a shilling."

1940 aerial, showing Faremers' open carpark area. Auckland Council website.

The carpark was extended for 160 vehicles by the 1950s, but this still proved inadequate.

So, in 1955, Farmers opened its first multistorey carpark building, at a cost of £200,000. These two postcards I purchased this week may come from around this time. By the late 1960s-early 1970s, the area in the foreground seems to have been converted mainly to gardens, judging by images in Hunter's book.

According to Hunter, "Elegantly attired hostesses took customers' money and directed them to a suitable park." A drive-in movie and burger bar operated from the top floor.

The building was doubled in size in 1962, with a skyway constructed linking the building with the main store. It remains to this day (operated by Wilson Parking), even though the department store it once served is now a hotel since 1996.

Box o' birds on Upper Queen Street

John Adam gave me the heads-up recently about another piece of street art in the central city. It took me a wee while to sort out my journeys, but yesterday I had a bit of time, a HOP card for free transport on the Inner Link bus -- and stepped off the bus at Myers Park.

Hau Te Kapapaka - The Flapping Wind is the name for this work in bronze and paint by Rachel Walters (2011).  Personally, I call it "Birds in a Box". Heck of a realistic box, an' all.

I missed the other sculpture (but hopefully will catch up with it), of a bird in a paper bag.

The unfortunate "Show Boat" cabaret

The "Columbia", as she was in pre-"Show Boat" days. Auckland Star 28 September 1926

Avondale local historian Eric Waterfield told me the other day about a floating cabaret which once graced the Auckland waterfront during the late 1930s, and pointed out an image of the ship as appeared in the Weekly News.

The story begins in 1899, when the four-masted schooner Columbia was built in Hoquiam, Wash. USA by George H Hitchings. She was owned by J H Baxter of San Francisco before World War I, and was sold in 1918 to the City Mill Co of Honolulu, Hawaii. Two years later she was on-sold to another Hawaiian firm. From 1920 to 1926, she was employed in the timber trade between Hawaii and Puget Sound, according to this page.

In June 1926, Columbia sailed from Gray's Harbour to New Zeaand with a cargo of lumber, arriving in early August. In September, while she was in Napier, Columbia was purchased by the Devonport Ferry Company, initially thought to be used as a collier, running between Newcastle NSW and Auckland. "The Columbia, which has been at Napier for some weeks, has attracted much attention owing to her graceful lines." (Auckland Star, 3 September 1926) But, the Ferry Company instead wanted Columbia as as a coal hulk at Auckland Harbour, replacing the Genovie M Tucker.

The three week last voyage of the Columbia to Auckland was dramatic.

With her provisions and water supply running low, the American four-masted wooden schooner Columbia, which is to be converted into a coal hulk for use at Auckland, reached port this morning, after a tedious passage of 21 days from Napier.

The schooner was sighted from the Tiri signal station at eight; o'clock yesterday morning, but owing to light winds did not make port until this morning. Off Rangitoto she was taken in tow by the tug Simplon, which brought her into the harbour and assisted her to berth at the Central wharf. As she came alongside the vessel was flying the Stars and Stripes from the truck of her jigger mast ...

After leaving Napier, the Columbia experienced calms and light airs to the East Cape. On September 11, when the ship was rolling heavily and the sails flapping, the spanker carried away and the mainsail was slightly damaged. Having rounded the East Cape the schooner encountered a succession of westerly gales, being driven some 200 miles away from the coast, and so far out of her course that at one time she was almost as far north as the meridian of the North Cape. On September 13 the mainsail carried away during a strong westerly gale. Being in light trim the schooner made hard work of her sailing, but eventually again got back on her course. On September 17 and 18 mountainous seas were running, the ship being badly knocked about, although, with the exception of several ripped sails, no damage was done. However, she was driven another 90 miles out of her course.

Early last week the conditions moderated, and the crew were employed in tidying up and mending the torn sails. Head winds were then experienced almost to port, the first fair wind of the trip being picked up yesterday afternoon. This morning the schooner was taken in tow by the Simplon.

Owing to the bursting of a 3000 gallon tank on Friday last, the ship's fresh water supply became low, the crew being restricted to one gallon a man per day. Provisions also showed signs of giving out, all the potatoes being used several days ago.

Auckland Star 28 September 1926

Her gear was auctioned off in October, and by the end of the month Columbia began what many probably thought would be the last chapter of her story, as a coal hulk for the Devonport Ferry Company anchored off "Rotten Row" in Freeman's Bay. One of her masts went overboard during a nor-easter gale which struck in May 1934.

Then, in late 1935, she was sold to what was termed an American cabaret company by the local press (although one of the partners, M H McLennan, apparently came from Vancouver). Permission was sought from the Auckland Harbour Board to have the hulk anchored at the eastern reclaimation, near what had once been Luna Park.

"I do not think we need be apprehensive regarding the morality or the frivolity of the cabaret," [the chairman, Mr. C. G. Macindoe] remarked. "The people who are running it are experienced in this line of business. There is plenty of room on the reclamation adjacent to where the hulk is berthed for the parking of cars, and it will be under police supervision."

... Opposing the motion, Mr. H. R. Mackenzie said that he did not think that it comported with the dignity of the board or of the city to have a floating cabaret on the harbour. He was supported by Mr. Harvey Turner, who said that the suggestion that overseas visitors wanted to attend such a cabaret was nonsense, as those who were passing through by trans-Pacific liners usually stayed only one day.

On the suggestion of Mr. M. H. Wynyard, the chairman included in his original motion a proviso that the license should be subject to the Health Department's approval.

"The people of Auckland have a right to have places of amusement at their command," remarked Mr. J. Sayegh. "In any other country there would be half a dozen such cabarets on the waterfront, which is the heart of the city."

... "I would rather see my children visiting a well-lighted cabaret on the waterfront than those that are hidden away in remote parts of the city," declared Mr. Macindoe. "The police will have access at all times. We are concerned only with granting a license, and I doubt if we have power to refuse it."

Auckland Star 18 December 1935

The Show Boat cabaret, Columbia's final chapter, was opened in January 1936. Interesting that, in the ad below, they have used an image of one of Columbus' ships from 1492.

Auckland Star 3 January 1936

"THE SHOW BOAT" 

CABARET ON THE SEA 

Something novel in the way of dancing surroundings are to be provided by Auckland's first floating cabaret, "The Show Boat” which will open on Saturday night. This new place of entertainment was once a four-masted schooner, and more recently a coal hulk, but has now been transformed into an attractive and enticing cabaret, reminiscent of show-boat days on the Mississippi. Two dance floors have been built, one above the other, giving a floor space of about 6000 ft, while cubicles, tables and lounges have been installed. Coloured lighting and tasteful decorations will add to the effect, and a band has been formed that should prove a worthy addition to Auckland's dance combinations.

(Auckland Star 31 December 1935)

"SHOW BOAT." 

 NEW FLOATING CABARET. 

GALA OPENING NIGHT. 

To dance in most pleasing nautical surroundings, in the cool and refreshing atmosphere of Auckland's beautiful waterfront, will be the privilege of cabaret patrons on and after Saturday next, when the recently-licensed floating cabaret, "Show Boat," will be opened to the public. A gala night has been arranged for Saturday evening, when patrons will be assured of three hours and a half of most enjoyable entertainment. It is believed by the promoters that the uncommon attractions of "Show Boat" will make for a full ship.

There is a spacious dancing floor on the top deck and another, of the same size, on the lower deck. Both dancing floors are lined with alcoves, furnished with tables which fold back against the walls. Portholes and nautical effects keep the cabaret in character, and the harbour view glimpsed through the portholes serves to heighten the effect.

Both dancing floors will be brilliantly lit. For'ard there is a large kitchen and servery, and at the stern there is cloak-room accommodation. The band will be on the lower deck, in an alcove on the port side, and the music will be amplified by loud-speakers throughout the ship. The dancing floors have been specially built, the old decks of the boat having been stripped.

A modern system of cooling has been installed, and large electrical fans will help keep the atmosphere pleasant for dancers.

"Show Boat" will be moored permanently alongside the eastern extension, under shelter of the tide deflector, so that even in stormy weather all will be snug aboard. Parking accommodation for the guests' cars has been arranged. As the vessel is moored at the end of a good road, only recently completed, motorists will have no difficulty in "Show Boat" is only 200 yards past the Devonport vehicular ferry landing.

The manager, Mr. M. H. McLennan, is well-known to a large number of Aucklanders, having long been associated with cabaret life, and patrons will be assured of a warm welcome and efficient service. An advertisement in this issue gives particulars regarding reservations.

(Auckland Star 3 January 1936) 

 

Auckland Star 22 February 1936

At some point, the Show Boat was moved to Mechanic's Bay. In November 1936, however -- Auckland's floating cabaret was sabotaged.

With eight auger holes in her starboard side below the water-line, and 3ft of water covering the ballroom on the lower deck, the "Show Boat," well known Auckland floating dance club, berthed at the eastern reclamation is resting on the harbour bottom, with an acute list. The holes were bored maliciously during the night.

The damage was discovered last night by Mr. L R Fountain, a member of the staff, who was on night duty at the time. He went aboard about 11 o'clock to find that, in his words, “Water was simply pouring in through the side of the ship on to the dance floor.” The management summoned the police this morning.

Mr. Fountain communicated with Mr R Fenwick, manager of the Show Boat, and the secretary, Mr. N. E. Crowe, and the furnishings on the dance floor were removed to the shore, where they will be stored. Nothing could be done last night, but an investigation was made this morning, and a powerful pump was installed this afternoon.

Mr. Fenwick was aboard about 5 o'clock last night, when everything in order. The damage apparently was done between 9 p.m. and 11 p.m.

Investigation to-day was undertaken when the tide had fallen sufficiently to allow an inspection of the under-water portion of the hull to be made. About 11 o'clock the vessel was resting on the bottom, with a heavy list to starboard, with the water still high enough to be running out of the port side, alongside the reclamation. Mr. Fenwick, rowed round to the port side in a dinghy, and there, clearly visible because of the list, were to be seen the auger holes, There were eight of them bored in a circle of a diameter of 1ft. Three of the holes had penetrated, but the others had struck iron bolts.

Evidences of leakage were found as long ago as last Wednesday week, although at that stage it was thought that defective caulking was the cause, because that seemed feasible in an old vessel. However, when, an examination was made this morning, tiny-fish were found in the interior below the dance floor deck. It is stated that fish could not easily enter through chinks in the caulking.

"It looks to me," said Mr. Fenwick who, when he spoke, was clad in a bathing costume, and held a hammer in one hand and a piece of wood in the other, "that a malicious attempt has been made to damage the business of the Show Boat. I think we can say the Show Boat has become a popular institution in Auckland among the younger set, but I cannot imagine that anyone would have gone to such lengths as to do this. It is a criminal offence.

The manager added that, although he was not a carpenter, it seemed obvious to him that the augur holes had been newly bored in the stout timbers of the old ship. Obviously the malicious work must have occupied some time.

With the ballroom deck 3ft under water, and the upper deck on an angle, cluttered with such furnishings from below as had not been removed to the shore, several musical instruments, odds and ends of timber, the Show Boat this afternoon presented a scene of confusion. Men in bathing costumes splashed about on the ballroom floor, so often the scene of care-free gaiety. It took five men to lift the piano from the dais and up the stairs to a waiting wagon, the legs having, first to be removed ...

Some idea of the popularity of the Show Boat may be gained from the fact that a fortnight ago the club was booked to capacity, and last Saturday over 300 members and guests had to be turned away because the ballroom floor, owing to flooding in that week, was not sufficiently dry for use. 

 Auckland Star 28 November 1936

The management team repaired the damage, but then the Harbour Board wanted the cabaret shifted to make way for the new Pan-American Airways base at Mechanics Bay. The Show Boat was shifted to "the rubble wall which is a distance back from the Mechanics' Bay breastwork, and parallel with the power boat dolphin piling. A wooden jetty will be erected between the shore and the ship." (Auckland Star 1 December 1937) It reopened the week before Christmas.

Auckland Star 11 December 1937

Whoever had it in for either the owners or the ship -- they struck again in March 1938, just over two months later.

Auckland Star 2 March 1938

The floating cabaret, "The Showboat," moored at the eastern reclamation, was found sinking late yesterday afternoon. The lower deck ballroom was flooded with thousands of gallons of salt water, which caused extensive damage. An attempt was being made to float the cabaret this afternoon at low tide, but it was impossible to do anything until the water had gone down sufficiently to allow the Harbour Board pump to be used.

A passer-by noticed the position of the craft late yesterday afternoon and advised the proprietors. By reason of the rapidly rising tide the water had risen to within 6in of the ceiling above the lower deck by 5 o'clock and was rising at the rate of 2ft an hour. It was impossible to draw off the water with a pump supplied by the Harbour Board staff, as the water was flowing in too quickly.

One of the square glass windows built into the seaward side of the boat was smashed and the frame floated on the water, and it seemed likely that some or all of the windows on that side of the ship had been deliberately broken. The actual cause of the trouble, however, as stated this morning, is a complete mystery.

A grand piano was covered by about 10 feet of water and the tops of trestles, covers from gramophone records, and fittings from the interior of the cabaret floated up against the ceiling.

By seven o'clock last evening the water in the lower deck of the cabaret had risen to the top of the stairway and was running over the upper floor. However, everything had been lifted out of the way. The vessel settled on an even keel last evening.

The cabaret has had an unlucky series of accidents of which this one is the fourth within 18 months. Between the beginning of October and the end of November 1936, three allegedly deliberate attempts were made to sink the ship. On the first occasion one of the forward mooring chains was released from the capstan, but though the tide movement snapped a steel hawser, a thick rope held. A month later, someone tried to flood the craft, but the rising water was detected. A fortnight later, however, 11 augur holes were bored below the waterline. The damage on that occasion amounted to about £200.

(Auckland Star 2 March 1938)

As the Show Boat cabaret, which had been raised only a few hours previously from the sea bed and cleared of the water that had flooded its lower floor, lay alongside the eastern reclamation at noon to-day, a little crowd of people in a Queen Street auction room heard it withdrawn from sale when the highest bid of £120 failed to reach the reserve.

The floating cabaret was offered complete with fixtures and fittings, piano, tables, chains and general accessories. There were only two serious bids, the first being £100. The reserve was not disclosed.

When the discovery was made on Tuesday that the Show Boat was sinking it was thought that the mishap might upset plans for the auction. A piano and other fittings suffered from the effects of the inrush of salt water.

However, the arrangements for the sale, under the instructions of the debenture holder, were continued. Whether private negotiations will now begin or another auction will be arranged could not be ascertained to-day.

The cause of the sinking of the cabaret at its moorings remained to-day a mystery. The vessel was refloated early last evening, and a cursory examination failed to reveal any reason for the mishap. A fuller inspection has yet to be made.

(Auckland Star 4 March 1938) 

The Show Boat was refloated, but soon after her owners decided to abandon the whole operation. She came under Auckland Harbour Board control by August 1938, and for the second time in her career, the Columbia's fittings were auctioned off.

Auckland Star 18 August 1938

Auckland Star 12 September 1938

In the near future the old Showboat, which has been moored for a considerable time at Mechanics' Bay, is to make her last voyage. The hulk, which was formerly used as a cabaret, is to be towed to Rangitoto Island and destroyed by fire. Officials of the Auckland Harbour Board have examined the vessel, which was formerly the schooner Columbia, and it is considered that in calm weather the tow can be made without difficulty. Prior to setting out on her last voyage the hulk will be loaded with an amount of inflammable material. Recently the Auckland Harbour Board called tenders for the removal of the vessel. One offer of £10 was received, but as a condition was attached that a period of 12 months should be allowed to dispose of the hulk the offer was declined. The Showboat contains in her hull a large amount of heavy timber, but the bolting used in her building would make her a very difficult vessel to break up.

Auckland Star 21 October 1938

THE COLUMBIA'S END.
Now that a decision has been reached with regard to the destruction of the "Showboat" by setting her on fire, please allow me to suggest that it take place on the evening of Anniversary (Regatta) Day. Being a holiday, a very large number of people could witness a thrilling and instructive spectacle.
GERALDUS.

(Auckland Star  26 October 1938)

In the end, Columbia returned to Rangitoto's waters, where she had first passed back in 1926 on her journey to Auckland.

Showboat Burned.
The old schooner Columbia, which had been used as a floating cabaret, was towed to the northern end of Rangitoto Island yesterday, beached, and destroyed by fire. The tow was made by the Auckland Harbour Board's tug Te Awhina and off Rangitoto that tow was transferred to two launches. Inflammable material on the bulk was set alight, and the vessel was soon a mass of flames. The hulk was burning throughout the day and was completely destroyed.

(Auckland Star 27 October 1938)

Today, Columbia's remains join others as part of the Rangitoto Ships' Graveyard.