Timespanner visits Howick

Well, a bit of it. Yes, I have been to the Howick Historical Village (and intend to return again at some stage) but yesterday's journey out was to give a talk to the Howick branch of the NZ Society of Genealogists (one of a rash of talks I seem to have let myself in for over February and March, all over the place ...) And, this was the first time I'd been that far out east by myself, using good ol' public transport.

So -- above, the clock tower from the Highland Park shopping centre. It caught my eye, and I instantly thought that it reminded me of the traditional blockhouses during the Taranaki and Waikato land wars of the 19th century. I'll bet it's actually supposed to be something different, but -- I liked what I saw.

They like to have the occasional decorated rubbish bin out that way as well. And finials on their bus stop roofs! (I couldn't take a photo of the latter today, darn it, because there were a lot of people there waiting patiently for a bus ...)

Getting close to my destination ( I walked up from Highland Park shops to Ridge Road) ...

The very, very beautiful old St Andrews Presbyterian Church and cemetery, at the corner of Vincent and Ridge Roads.

This is a simply stunning country church (well, it was out in the country when first built in 1873). According to Alan La Roche, in his book The History of Howick and Pakuranga, Whitford, Bucklands and Eastern Beaches and Surrounding Districts (1991), this was designed by James Wrigley, and cost all of £175.

The new Presbyterian church at Howick was opened for Divine service on Sunday last, the 30th ult., at 3 p.m. The weather was propitious, and the assembled congregation filled all the available apace in the building. The Rev. John Macky was the officiating minister, and in the “service of praise" members of the choirs of the other congregations of his charge gave their assistance. After engaging in devotional exercises, including the leading of portions of Sacred Scriptures suitable for the occasion, the minister delivered a discourse founded on John iv., 21, 23, in which he unfolded the nature of Divine worship, as taught by our blessed Lord himself.

The collection, which was on behalf of the building fund, amounted to upwards of £6. The church is beautifully situated at the entrance of Howick, nearest to Panmure, and is a pretty and well-constructed building, creditable both to the architect, Mr. Wrigley, and to the builders, Mr. McInnes and Mr. White. It was a cause of regret that it had been forgotten to advertise the opening service in the Auckland journals, as it was hoped that some of the many kind friends in the city who had contributed to the erection of the church would be present on the occasion, and be gratified by seeing the result of their generous co-operation with their, in some respects, less favourably circumstanced country friends. In order as far as possible to make amends for this oversight, arrangements have been made for holding Divine service in the new church at 11 a.m. on Sunday next, when a further opportunity will be given of contributing to the building fund.

Southern Cross 3 April 1873

"The Rev McKay became blind in his old age but his faithful horse 'Jack' guided him safely to his preaching charge at Howick every Sunday from Otahuhu. He would spend Sunday afternoons preaching, and visited pensioners on Mondays before returning to Otahuhu. It is said children would guide the horse across a stream, the horse would know where to go."

Alan La Roche, p. 125

Today, the old church is known as the chapel, while behind it, built in 1981, is the new church, combining the congregations from St Andrew's and the (c.1907) Uxbridge Church. It serves the Howick Presbyterian Church, and the Auckland Taiwanese Presbyterian Church -- and is the meeting place for the Howick branch of the NZSG.

And then, once inside, I caught sight of this. This is a stained glass window, featuring the Presbyterian symbol of the burning bush, originally from the now vanished St Peter's Presbyterian Church in Grey Lynn. According to the information beside it, it was dedicated in honour of Gordon McCullough, a Grey Lynn parishioner who was a casualty during World War I. The window was later given by McCullough family members to Uxbridge Church during that church's extensions in 1956, but it was never used. Instead, it was found under the old church in 1981, while the new Howick Presbyterian Church was being constructed. Plans were adjusted to incorporate the window especially in the entry foyer of the new building.

This photo does not do the window justice. It is a truly stunning sight -- well done to the parishioners and administrators of the Howick church for restoring a piece of not only a piece of Presbyterian (and Auckland ) history to a place where it can be appreciated.

A sexton's life

When Waikomete (then Waikomiti) Cemetery opened 125 years ago this year, in 1886, one of the main jobs out there was as sexton. It came with a cottage, fresh air – but a lot of hard work.

The City Council received the following amongst the applications sent in for the billet of sexton at Waikomiti, the other day :

Auckland N.Z. 18-2-86

to city council

Dear Sirs

seeing it advertised that the city council was wanting a sexton I now offer my services to you praying that I may be excepted [sic] by you I am steady and sober and healthy and strong and I understand it as well I am 30 years of age married and 2 children if reffence [sic] was required I can get any amount I am a very pore scholar therefore I think myself qualified as a sexton with your exception I am yours Humblely and co (address) P S I mean the new sexton for new cemetery Waikomiti.'

Observer, 6 March 1886

Thomas James McIvor was born in 1857 in Auckland. He learnt the upholstering trade from the firm of T. & H. Cook, and then struck out on his own. In the nineteenth century, upholsterers were among the number of trades which evolved into the business of funeral undertaking — others were carriers (carrying the coffins), furnishers (building the coffins — Battersby’s of Avondale is an example), and florists. McIvor’s funeral parlour was on Karangahape Road. He was a member of the Grey Lynn Bowling Club from 1908, and owned land at Blockhouse Bay possibly for holidays from 1894-1901, but he was a Pt Chevalier resident, living on Carrington Road.

In June 1893 he must have decided to put pen to paper, after seeing a lone sexton struggling through his tasks at Waikumete Cemetery, while McIvor himself was overseeing the last resting place preparations for the departed. He poetically and expressively wrote to the Auckland Evening Star, and his missive was published.

21 June 1893

WHITE SLAVERY

Sir, - A specimen of the above could have been witnessed any day last week, enacted in the person of the sexton at Waikomiti Cemetery, his work beginning with the peep of day, cold and wet, down deep into the depths of a soaking grave, wet and re-wet again and again, preparing the homes for our city’s dead, no help, no pitying hand to be found, Sunday and other days all alike. Slavery, aye! Worse than slavery, and yet we call ourselves a Christian community, preaching “Do ye to others as ye would have them do to you,” beautiful precept, but oh, how seldom put in practice.

Now, sir, when many less burials when many less burials took place at Waikomiti our City Fathers provided two sextons, and ample work was found for both: but of late – I suppose on the score of retrenchment – with nearly double the work in hand, one white slave has to do the labour of two at the wage of one. Whilst other well paid and comfortably-housed servants of the people, with roaring fires to keep out the cold, look up and feel thankful that their lot is indeed cast in pleasant places, this equally good and useful servant has not the least consideration, but is compelled to labour in the field of mud, slush, and slavery, losing years of his life, and may, long before his ripened time, himself find a grave where he digged homes for others.

I am, etc.,

THOS J McIVOR

Just as with the case of the Symonds Street gravediggers, there was “One Who Knows” with a seemingly indepth knowledge of the ways and means of the city’s cemetery workers. Whoever this one was, he took keen exception to McIvor’s appeal.

22 June 1893

Sir,

In reply to Mr McIvor’s letter of last evening, in reference to the sexton at the Waikomiti Cemetery, probably Mr Walker will not thank him, because there are a great many who would not despise the same billet on these terms, £2 10s per week and comfortable house, with paid labour help when actually required by his own request. It is true, of late he has been working hard, but there have been and are times when there is very little to do. No doubt, if the work increases permanently an additional person will be appointed.

Yours, etc.

ONE WHO KNOWS

Thomas McIvor responded.

23 June 1893

Sir,

Had “One Who Knows” but added the word little to his signature it would have been much nearer the mark.

“One Who Knows” may well write from behind his office table statements of which he knows but very little. No doubt he considers £2 10s per week for a common working man is indeed too much, but does he not for his services seek much more? and one may question it would be near as hardly earned as that of the poor sexton. Let “One Who Knows” try but one week of Waikomiti work, and then, indeed, he will know much more.

It appears to me that “One Who Knows” has never visited Waikomiti, or if he has it is very seldom, for surely if he knows so much, he could not have known enough to use his eyes and see that during spare time the roadways, footpaths and other places require and are kept in good order. There is indeed no lack of work at all times for one man. But again I assert that the work of late has been nothing but white slavery. Does “One Who Knows” know if the sexton ever did apply for help and whether it was granted.

I am, etc.,

THOS J McIVOR

“One Who Knows” seems to have either been connected with Auckland City Council matters in connection with the cemetery, or he was obsessed with the subject, even finding out the merest minutiae on it.

24 June 1893

Sir,

Allow me to inform Mr McIvor (who knows so much) that I have visited Waikomiti Cemetery several times, and that I also know that the sexton has applied for assistance and that it has been granted, and there is no reason why if occasion arises he should not apply again for temporary assistance. As regards comparative payments, the sexton with £2 10s per week, house too, is better paid than the bulk of the labourers in the city. As regards the work, the average interments in 1890, 1891 was six per week, and in 1982 seven per week.

I am, etc.,

ONE WHO KNOWS

McIvor, however, appears to have had the last say in this letters to the editor duel.

27 June 1893

Sir,

Kindly allow me space once more to reply to “One Who Knows” (so little). Your correspondent admits that he has only visited Waikomiti several times, that means, I presume, some three or four occasions, and these were taken on a beautiful clear summer’s day. Fancy setting himself up as “One Who Knows” when he has been there so few times in seven years; so much for his practical knowledge. When “One Who Knows” enlarges so much upon the sexton’s great pay, he carefully omits to mention that it is for a week of 7 days and of all hours. “One Who Knows’ ” statements of the average interments are correct so far as ’90, ’91 and ’92 are concerned. By taking 7 per week for ’92, he makes it appear that only one burial took place per day, when he knew well that on very many days three and four interments was no uncommon occurrence; and further of the time in reference to what I first wrote (’93), he also knew or ought to have known that three or four burials a day were very frequent, and as the greater number of funerals take place near the same hour, what a watery time the poor sexton must have. “One Who Knows’ “ comparison between the city labourer and Mr Walker can only arise from his own ignorance of Waikomiti Cemetery work, because on the days in which no interment took place, there is no lack of work in keeping the place in order.

I am, etc.,

THOS J McIVOR

Another visit to Symonds Street cemetery

Some more graves from the Wesleyan/Anglican section of the cemetery.

The plaque, at the gate to the steps leading down to the cemetery:

City of Auckland

Grafton Bridge

Passersby are reminded that below this bridge reposes the honoured remains of many Pioneer Settlers whose enterprise and endurance through many difficulties and during troublous times laid the foundations upon which the progress and prosperity of this City and Provincial District have been built.

On the other post, the Grafton Bridge 1910 plaque.

Thomas Howard Kirkham, possibly a sawmill foreman, died 27 April 1880, nearly three months after the death of his 8 month old daughter Bertha, also buried here.

This one, shadowed by the bridge, is simple "R D, 1879".

We do have more on Stephen Edward Hughes, however.

Many of our readers will regret to learn of the death of Mr Stephen Hughes, of the well known firm of Hughes and George, solicitors, Auckland, which took place yesterday. The deceased gentleman was born in Rochester, England, in October, 1821, and was consequently in his 66th year. He arrived in Auckland in 1840, but in 1846 returned to England, and was married to his present wife. In 1850 he came back and finally settled in Auckland, and after a short time was appointed clerk to the Provincial Council, which post he held for some years. After that he joined the staff of the Southern Cross newspaper, which he subsequently left to study the law under the late Mr Wm.. Bracey, Mr Edwin Hesketh studying with him in the same office. He was admitted to the bar in 1862, and was joined by Mr George in 1876, forming,the well known firm of Hughes and George. Tha late Mr  Hughes was a member of the General Anglican Synod.

Thames Star 31 May 1887

Abel Goldsworthy, formerly of Redruth in Cornwall, just simply dropped dead in Queen Street one day in 1872.

An inquest was held yesterday at the Claricarde Hotel, before T M Philson, Esq., coroner, and a respectable jury, on the body of Abel Goldsworthy, whose sudden death we announced in our yesterday's issue.

The first witness called was Stephen Catran, who, being sworn, deposed : I am a miner, residing at the Thames. I have known the deceased for the last six and a-half years. He was a miner. He was a single man about 33 years of age. By appointment I met deceased on Sunday morning last at about 10.20. We started from the Royal Mail Hotel, and walked up and down Queen-street. I noticed nothing unusual in his appearance. He told me he felt very well, a few minutes after 12 o'clock. We were then at the corner of Queen- and Victoria-streets, speaking of an appointment we had in the afternoon. Deceased suddenly said, "I'm off, Steve." I caught him in my arms as he fell backwards. A crowd soon gathered. A man — who I afterwards learnt was named Shepperd — and who somebody said was a doctor, looked at deceased, and said he was dead. This was about five minutes after he fell. A table was brought, and we laid him upon it. Froth was coming from his mouth. When he took the fit I noticed that his face became very red, and his neck was very much swollen. Mr. Nankervis went for a doctor, who arrived about ten minutes afterwards. He pronounced deceased to be dead. He was then conveyed to his home. He had not been drinking. He had a fit on Saturday. Dr. Sam gave him a prescription  he did not get it made up. The deceased has a sister residing at Ballarat. His mother and another sister reside in England. No one bled deceased whilst on the table. He had a deposit receipt for over £300 and a £20 note upon him when he died. The police took charge of them.

H 0 Nankervis deposed to having seen the deceased on the morning previous to his death, when he described to him his feelings when in the fit on Saturday. He aho said he often felt a pain in his left side. He had not been drinking to witness's knowledge.

Dr Hooper deposed to having, at the request of the jury, made a post mortem examination of the body. He was of opinion that death had resulted from disease of the heart.

Dr. Seth Sam deposed to the deceased having met him on Saturday last, and having asked for a prescription, which he gave him. He had since heard that it had not been used. Witness believed death had resulted from heart disease.

The jury returned a verdict in accordance with the medical testimony to the effect that deceased had died from disease of the heart.

Southern Cross 16 April 1872

One nice thing on the headstone are the words: "Erected by his mates, Martin Cateren and Bros."

The stone is so badly weathered, I hadn't a hope of determining who is this.

John and Mary Frances Eales, of 6 Grove Road, Mill End in London, lost their youngest son John, aged just 22.

Symonds Street's tram stop toilets

The Grafton Bridge had just been completed in 1910 -- and so, to help those in need of shelter while waiting for the tram along Symonds Street, Auckland City Council built this beside the new bridge that year: the Symonds Street tram stop and toilet.

Hard to get a good shot of it in all its glory these days. It took a while to wait for enough buses and cars to leave the scene between the toilets and the other side of the road.  This was a lucky attempt. A second later, it was back to traffic jam again.

A visit to Jomac Place

Seeing as I was down Rosebank way, taking photographs of traffic control boxes and old dairies, I decided to walk a bit further, and visit Jomac Place, before much of the industrial zone development hides the landscape forever.

Readers of Timespanner will already be aware of my feelings about the name "Jomac Place." I see, just to emphasise things, this is one of the few streets in Auckland with not one, but two street signs. Just in case you forget the name. As if ...

Of course, by far the most famous part of the Jomac Place landscape are two trees -- the oak (left) and the pohutukawa (right).

The pohutukawa at the moment is the one at most risk. It's been the subject of appeals, submissions, voluminous reports, hearings, many inches of newspaper comment and aggrieved letters, and (at the time of writing) is still subject to a planned Environment Court hearing where the developer wants it gone, and the Tree Council plus locals from Avondale say no. A stragly old tree causing a lot of paperwork (which, in turn, means more trees getting the chop to provide the paper, but ...)

Its companion oak is at less risk, but there are concerns for it should the pohutukawa get the chop, and ensuing works at the development impact on the rootspace for the tree.

Meanwhile, the developer seems fond of trees in other places. More have been planted beside the footpaths along the new road.

This used to be ploughed land, where cabbages grew. Today, before the rest of the development takes hold, it is full of weeds, sparrows darting about, and white butterflies. You can almost imagine it back in its heyday as a market garden. Indeed, this, the Connell-Copsey family holdings, was the last of the great market gardens on the peninsula.

So, there we have it. I guess in a couple of years, I might wander on down to see all the wild green disappeared, tamed perhaps in manicured verges and tiny lawns in from of office and light industrial buildings. It's anyone's guess, at the moment, whether the two most famous trees in Avondale will survive.

End of the large Coke can on Rosebank

I'd been alerted over the weekend that the well-known Avondale landmark was going to be removed from above the verandah of the Rosebank Dairy, 146 Rosebank Road, where it had been a landmark for, well, as long as I can remember. I headed down there today, earliest opportunity I had -- but missed it. "Oh blast and bother," I thought to myself.

But, where there's a will, and a collection of photos held by the Avondale-Waterview Historical Society, there's a way.

It just so happened that the first President, my precessessor Bruce Spencer, took this photo in April 2002, before the Society had even incorporated. Here you see the Rosebank Dairy in older livery, and with the iconic Coke can in place.

It seems, just by a quick look at the directories, that the dairy started as a grocers shop in the late 1920s by the Davies family, in particular a Mrs Jean Davies. I'd love to know more about the history of the business, if anyone reading this can help.

Three Doug Ford boxes on Rosebank Road

Three more Doug Ford boxes along Rosebank Road today. This one just beyond Victor Street at a pedestrian crossing over Rosebank Road.

Pity about the large branding Auckland Council's contractor slapped over the face.

This one is at the traffic lights at Avondale College's gate further along the road. It's fighting a losing battle with the poster bombers and taggers.

This one is at the corner of Eastdale and Rosebank, Alongsisde the playing fields for Rosebank School.

In the background are the Avondale Road shops.

In this case, the new traffic control contractor branding has been stuck on top of some tagging. An improvement of sorts!

Nobody Here But Us

Coming off a bus from the North Shore at Wellesley Street this afternoon, I find this huge and eye-catching piece of art.

Called "Nobody Here But Us", it's the 1991 work of Richard Deacon, in painted aluminium, commissioned by the ASB Bank Ltd and Fletcher Construction. It sits in the entry to the ASB bank building.

It's weird and big -- but I do like it. Reminds me of tangled movie film.