Chancery's changes

Again, buying a postcard led to me doing a bit of research to satisfy my own curiosity as to some of the story about a part of Auckland. The Chancery Street area has come up time and again, mainly from the 19th century references to it being something of a near-slum area by the 1860s. In the detail above from the 1866 Vercoe and Harding map of Auckland (NZ Map 18, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library), the area I looked into is from the second Wesleyan Chapel (left, fronting the corner of High Street and Chancery Street, on Allotment 27 Section 4, City), the Mechanics' Institute building alongside (Allotment 26), William Street through Allotment 25, and "Chancery Lane" through Allotment 24.

This latter accessway between Chancery Street and Victoria Quadrant (Kitchener Street) came to be known as "Bacon's Alley", after William Bacon, proprietor from the 1850s of the Oddfellows Arms Hotel, located at the corner of Chancery Street and the lane which would come to bear his name. Bacon purchased land in the area as early as 1843, but lost it to the Improvement Commissioners in the early 1870s when Auckland City Council took over the area to try to create a road link from Coburg Street (part of Kitchener Street now, south of of Victoria Street West) and Shortland Street.

For the purpose of obtaining such access it will be necessary that a new street should be formed from Victoria Quadrant, in the vicinity of the Wesleyan Chapel into Shortland-street, and thence into Fort-street, near its junction with Commerce-street; and that Victoria street should be extended into Victoria Quadrant, over land the property of Mr Thomas Outhwaite. To effect this it is expedient that lanes and private alleys in the vicinity of Chancery-street should be abolished, and that several houses and huts there should be removed, and that Chancery-street should be widened. The Commissioners by this Act, seek to obtain compulsory powers for the purchase of the estate interest, and rights of all persons in the land and houses required for the formation of such streets and works, and for the abolition of such lanes and private alleys as aforesaid, and for the acquisition of lands and houses adjacent to the same for re-sale by the Commissioners after the new streets have been formed and the old streets widened.

 (Star 23 May 1873)

That road link was meant to provide more direct access between the port and the sections being divided up for lease and sale by the Improvement Commissioners (see also my posts of the Drill Hall and Princes Street). But -- it didn't come to pass. The main effect was that the Wesleyan Chapel site, the Mechanics Institute, William and Bacon's Lanes all became property of Auckland City Council, much this remaining in Council hands until the mid 1980s.

But, I'm getting ahead of myself, here ...

Above, the Chancery area c.1857, from the lower slopes of Barrack Hill (Albert Park), in the vicinity of today's Bowen Avenue. The prominent building centre right was the second Wesleyan Chapel fronting High Street. To the right of the chapel, just across an un-named accessway which became Courthouse Lane in the 20th century, the Auckland Mechanic's Institute. The roadway from left to right is Victoria Quadrant (now part of Kitchener Street). Ref 4-864, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The original Wesleyan Chapel was wooden, and built 1843 on the same site.  In 1846 (New Zealander 28 March), the chapel was enlarged, but in 1848 it was completely replaced by a brick structure (New Zealander 18 October 1848). This sparked off a heritage mystery which still lingers. The Silverdale and Districts Historical Society have a wooden chapel on their museum site which, it is claimed, is the old High Street chapel, after having been relocated to Parnell, and then to the Wade (now Silverdale) in 1860. But original deeds and documentation proving the High-street to Parnell to Wade links have been lost.

According to the New Zealander, 12 May 1849, the chapel was converted by that time into the Wesleyan Day School, adjoining the new chapel. It was still there Christmas Day 1852 (New Zealander). As the Sunday School, it appears to have remained in that position right down to 1874, when the Improvement Commissioners bought the property from the church trustees (Southern Cross, 22 May 1873). I've found one reference to a Wesleyan Chapel at "Wade Bridge" by 1866 (Southern Cross, 3 February) so, I tend to think at this stage that the chapel at Silverdale wasn't from High Street.

The same scene, c.1869. Where this bloke is sitting is now the busy road called Bowen Avenue. Ref 4-3390, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

Two images stitched together, from the 1860s, showing the view from another vantage point on what is now lower Albert Park. Refs 7-A5474 and 7-A5475, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The scene in the early 1870s. Ref 4-8996, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

In 1875, the Improvement Commissioners proposed to offer the brick chapel to the Mechanics' Institute, in return for the Institute's land so that the connecting road could be pushed through. (Star, 2 September 1875) Nothing came of that, but St Paul's School did use the old Wesleyan schoolroom at the rear of the chapel for a time from 1876. (Southern Cross, 9 June) But the chapel and its site between High Street and Victoria Quadrant was to take on a new role -- that of the Magistrates and Police Courts, and (later) the Land and Deeds office.

A petition, very largely signed by members of the legal profession, Justices of the Peace, and prominent citizens, is about to be presented to the Hon. C. C. Bowen, Minister of Justice, having for its object the shifting of the District Court, Resident Magistrates' Court, and Police Court, to the old Wesleyan Chapel, in High-street ... The Wesleyan Chapel is a large and commodious edifice. By the expenditure of a moderate sum every convenience could be secured. The mere shifting of the Court house would save to the public and the profession in a single year all the costs of the improvements five times multiplied. The Minister of Justice will do well to accede to the prayer of the petition, as a public benefit of no inconsiderable extent will be secured. 

Auckland Star 10 April 1876

"Watercolour painting by Walter Wright showing the Mechanics Institute which was situated on the corner of High Street and Chancery Street, the ramp at the right led to Courthouse Lane." Ref 4-675, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library. The lane to the left appears to have been just a blind access lane -- now all part of today's Chancery development.

The Mechanic's Institute, 1880s, probably before conversion briefly as the Auckland Public Library. The beginning of Courthouse Lane can be seen in the foreground, at that point simply a pedestrian access. Ref 4-25, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The old Mechanics' Institute, one of the few links between past and present day Auckland, is to be demolished in the course of a week or two, after an existence of over 60 years. The building, a quaint old one, adjoins the Magistrate's Court at the corner of High-street and Chancery-lane, and though for some time past its dignity has been disturbed by the hubbub of the workroom, some 30 or 40 years ago it boasted the name of  "The Mechanics' Institute," and for many years the front portion of the building was used as a public hall, where matters of great national import were ofttimes heatedly discussed with all the fire and spirit of the "good old days." The library which was attached to the Institute after a time fell on luckless days, and after futile efforts had been made to interest the Government in its behalf, it was in 1879 offered to the City Council as a free gift to form the nucleus of a public library. The offer was accepted, and in 1880  the Free Public Library came into being, continuing in the old building till 1887, when it was transferred to the present building by virtue of the Costley bequest, and Sir George Grey improved the occasion by donating his splendid collection of books and other treasures to the institution.

Auckland Star 23 September 1909

"Looking from Bowen Ave (right), Victoria Quadrant now Kitchener Street (left) showing the Northern Club(centre) and Albert Park (right)", 1880s. Ref 4-133, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The Chancery area in the 1880s. The former chapel building is now extended, with what appears to be front and rear porches, serving as the district and police court. Ref 4-140, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The Chancery district, in Hickson's 1882 map of Auckland (NZ Map 91, Sir George Grey Special Collections). Courthouse Lane has yet to be mapped, but probably existed as an unofficial access past the Mechanics' Institute building. William and Bacon Lane are survivors (although William Bacon's Oddfellows Hotel didn't). Another lane further east, shown in 1866, didn't last.

The Court House in High Street, formerly the Wesleyan Chapel, unknown date. Ref 4-774, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

In 1880, the Crown took over the former Wesleyan Chapel site as a Residents Magistrate's court and Police court. (Star 16 March 1880) The District Court's sessions opened there 14 March 1881. (Star 21 March) By 1911, the building had become the Land and Deeds office, as the district court moved to the new building fronting Victoria Quadrant.

This is the postcard which attracted my attention to all this: the NZ Express Company's Central Sample Rooms, at the top of Courthouse Lane, fronting Victoria Quadrant, from 1906.

I especially like this detail of two of the company's carts, ready and waiting for service. Courthouse Lane, as can be seen, was quite narrow.

In this detail from a 1909 plan (DP 2789, LINZ records, crown copyright), Courthouse Lane isn't even named. The site of the Central Sample Rooms building is in yellow.

Originally four storeys, the company added two more in 1913 (ACC 213/83k, Auckland Council Archives). The site was leased to NZ Express from 1903 by the Council (NA 113.13) until 1945 when the site was leased to Nagel Creations, manufacturers of lingerie.

Auckland city, viewed from the Grand Hotel, 1910s. Chancery Street is on the right. Photographer unidentified. Reference Number: 1/1-002803-G, Alexander Turnbull Library.

In the above image, Albert Park is to the left, Chancery Street to the right, the Central Sample Rooms just left of centre (and by then built up to 6 storeys), with the Police Court/Deeds Office just to the right of the Sample Rooms, other side of Courthouse Lane.

Then in 1985, Council sold the land first taken over by the Improvement Commissioners more than a century before for a road which was never created. NZI engaged in a massive redevelopment of the area, involving the closing of William (now Warspite) Lane, closing and re-creating Bacons Lane as a broad street to the east, and the demolition of the existing buildings, including the old Central Sample Rooms by 1988-1989.

So, today -- this is Courthouse Lane from lower Albert Park. Left is the former courthouse building (referred to in this post), while to the right is the new building (1990s) in place of the Central Sample Rooms. Oddly, it fills much the same footprint.

Closest I could get to recreating the 1906 postcard's view. There has been much in the way of foliage growth on the hill since then ...

I quite like the new building. A pity the old one is gone, but it had been altered and added to over the years, and was simply the standard Edwardian mercantile style. However this one does indeed look quite smart -- and if you want a nice cuppa and a meal, go to the coffee shop right on the corner there. They cook a wonderful eggs benedict.

This is more or less what Warspite Lane has become -- a set of steps, leading to Chancery Square. All now a far, far cry from the seedy hotels, infamous brothels, grimy streets and places of learning and worship in the edge of the ridge.

A taste of electric rail

A friend gave me a head's-up about this promo model of a cab of an electric train currently on display at Newmarket Station.

General Assembly Library, Wellington

Edited 24 June 2014.

When I got this postcard on TradeMe recently, I didn't think it would take a bit of untangling of internet sources to tweeze out a history of the building. Heritage New Zealand (formerly NZ Historic Places Trust) have this summary which doesn't give the full story, really. The best one can be found here via nzhistory.net.

Apparently, in 1857, the Wellington Provincial Council had their Council Chambers constructed -- but seemingly with an eye to the future, which arrived in 1865, when the capital shifted from Auckland to Wellington, and the Provincial Council building was ready and waiting for the Government to move right in. In 1873, the original building was extended and altered, as the affairs of running our far-flung colony became more and more involved and complicated.

Parliament buildings, Wellington, [ca 1880] Reference Number: 1/2-018471-F. Alexander Turnbull Library

Reference Number: 1/2-C-16700-F Wood engraving showing women sitting in the Ladies' Gallery, Parliament House, Wellington. Taken from the `Graphic', 13 November, 1880, page 484. Alexander Turnbull Library.

Showing a view of the Parliament Buildings and extensions in Wellington from Hill Street. Auckland Weekly News 21 July 1899. Ref AWNS-18990721-4-1, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library.

The building was further enhanced, added-to and generally made grander in 1899, the start of an eight-year period in its existence. My postcard belongs to this period.

The Parliament Buildings.

Wellington, June 19. 

Work at the Parliament Buildings is being rapidly pushed on, and most of it, except that in the library portion, will be ready by the opening time with the exception of small details. The prevailing feature of the new building is the bright white walls of the interior, which are set off by terracotta pillars and extensive ornamental work. For the present there will be want of room, as there is not so much space available in the new edifice as in the portion it replaces, especially while the library remains unfinished. 

 Colonist 20 June 1899

Showing the Council Chamber of the New Zealand house of Representatives in Parliament buildings, Wellington. Auckland Weekly News, 22 June 1900. Ref AWNS-19000622-9-6, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Library

NEW PARLIAMENT BUILDINGS

Most of the litter and debris which had accumulated inside and outside Parliament Buildings having been removed, the effect of the new structure can be better appreciated. In respect to style, it must be called a composite structure. It is disadvantageously placed, being overshadowed by what is known as the Speaker's wing, an old fashioned wooden edifice which is higher than the front entrance, and except for its Gothic windows possesses no style whatever. This portion of the present block will be replaced by the corresponding wing of the new structure facing the north-east. 

To many people, the low entrance of the new building gives a somewhat squat appearance to the whole. When completed, however, it will still look a handsome structure, notwithstanding its composite character. The internal work deserves the highest praise. Some experts have been at work night and day on the interior for the last three months. The ornamentation is in the finest cement, and exhibits some of the finest workmanship seen in the colony. The vestibule is admirable. The staircase which conducts the visitor to the upper committee rooms and corridors leading to the Legislative Council, is admirably conceived. The Sergeant-at-Arms' room, the Cabinet room, the messengers' room, the clerk and assistant clerks' rooms are fitted with panelled ceilings and cornices. The vestibule panels are supported by round pilasters with floral caps, the shaft being of a brown red color, and having an excellent effect, for they are placed round the whole of the walls. The entrance doors are excellent. The flooring is composed of tiles, having the Royal Arms on either side. 

What is known as the long lobby is painted a dull green, with white mouldings. When the furniture is arranged, the whole of the compartments mentioned will have a bright and comfortable appearance. But the principal room upstairs is the library. It is an apartment of noble dimensions. There is, perhaps, not another room in the colony that approaches it for effect or convenience. It cannot be the receptacle for the books this year, because the walls are scarcely dry. The workmen are busy in painting the new building the "yellowish stone" color of the Speaker's wing. This seems incongruous, but it is a defect that will be easily amended. 

Poverty Bay Herald 21 June 1899

Zachariah, Joseph 1867-1965: Crowd outside Parliament Buildings, Wellington, celebrating Dominion Day, Thursday 26 September 1907 Reference Number: 1/2-153019-F Crowd outside Parliament Buildings, Wellington, celebrating Dominion Day on Thursday 26 September 1907. There are flags draped across the roof and also a line of flags flying from one side of the Parliament Buildings to the other. The statue of John Ballance can be seen near the middle of the photograph. Photograph taken by Joseph Zachariah. Alexander Turnbull Library.

Then, just two months after all the pomp of celebrations around our Dominion status in 1907 -- disaster.

1907 fire at Parliament Buildings, Wellington, 11 December 1907 Reference Number: 1/2-022885-F The fire at Parliament buildings on the 11th of December, 1907. Shows a crowd in the foreground and hoses following up through the gate to the Legislative Council steps. Sydney Street West is visible. Photographer unidentified. Alexander Turnbull Library.

THE DESTROYED BUILDINGS. A DESCRIPTION. 

Standing out boldly on a gradual eminence fronting Molesworth-street, and flanked on either side by Sydney and Hill-streets, the Parliamentary Buildings, now a blackened ruin, formed an imposing and handsome pile. Built at a time when men feared to build of brick in Wellington city, because of the restlessness of Mother Earth, the greater portion of the huge block was of wood, the exception being a new wing on the western side of the building in which the library, which was saved, was housed.

The danger of destruction of the main building by fire has long been apparent, and the re-building of the wooden structure in brick was decided upon by Cabinet some years ago. The size of the building made this a very costly undertaking, and the work was put in hand in sections. The valuable library was first housed in brick, and then came a hiatus of several years, when the general reconstruction in brick was determined upon, the first contract, which included the extension and replacement of the western side, having been let during the last recess …

The building, exclusive. of the brick annexe, was one of the largest wooden buildings in the world, although considerably smaller than the Treasury Buildings on Lambton Quay, which takes pride of place in regard to wooden structures the world over. The area covered was very extensive, and the destroyed portion contained both Houses, the chambers of the House of Representatives and of the Legislative Council, in addition to the various galleries, cabinet room, committee rooms, the Speaker's quarters, and Ministers rooms.

Parliament House was erected, in 1873 from plans prepared by the Colonial Architect, Mr. Clayton, and there has been a great deal of alteration and reconstruction since. The Parliamentary Buildings were previously on the same site, but owing to the ravages of dry rot the reconstruction of the buildings had to be undertaken… In the recess of 1883-4 extensive alterations were made, a system of ventilation being established, and special appliances being laid on to heat, purify, and distribute air through the building. In 1898 a contract was let for a new wing in brick for the housing of the library, and to minimise risk in the event of fire. This was built with but one entrance, a double fireproof door on the ground floor just inside the entrance, all other portions of the interior walls being absolutely solid, a barrier which has proved effective, except in the case of Bellamy's, on the south of the library, being thus offered to the progress of flames from the wooden building …

The saving of the library is fortunate indeed. It is a very valuable collection, containing over fifty thousand volumes, and including an invaluable and unique collection of New Zealand literature, newspaper files and pamphlets. To the late Alfred Domett, statesman, poet, and ripe scholar, is due the title of father of this grand collection of literature. He commenced his labour of love while Premier, in 1862, and continued it during his residence in the colony until 1871. The banding contains two storeys and a basement, sociological works and fiction being stored on the ground floor, and works of reference on the upper. The value of this library cannot be estimated, and its destruction would have been a tremendous loss to the colony, for no amount of money could replace some of the volumes and records …

Auckland Star 11 December 1907

1907 fire at Parliament Buildings, Wellington, 11 December 1907 Reference Number: 1/2-008517-F Fire at Parliament Buildings, on the corner of Molesworth and Hill Streets, Wellington, 11th of December, 1907. Photographer unidentified. Alexander Turnbull Library.

The surviving part of the building became the General Assembly Library building, witnessing further changes on the site as Parliament Buildings, and later the Beehive were erected during the 20th century.

Parliament Buildings, Molesworth Street, Wellington, ca 1928 Reference Number: 1/2-068827-F Shows Parliament Buildings and the General Assembly Library in Molesworth Street with the Tinakori hills in the background. Photograph taken ca 1928. Alexander Turnbull Library.

Interior of the General Assembly Library (later known as the Parliamentary Library) in Wellington, photographed by Jeremy Garvitch circa 1940s-1950s. Shows a Gothic revival style room, featuring rows of books on bookcases. 

Reference Number: PAColl-0074-1-05, Alexander Turnbull Library.

General Assembly Library, Wellington, November 1955 Reference Number: 1/2-177170-F View of the General Assembly Library (now the Parliamentary Library) from the front from Parliament grounds, taken by Morrie Hill. 
Alexander Turnbull Library.

During work on refurbishing the library in the 1990s, fire struck yet again in 1992. But, it survived.

Reference Number: EP/1992/F4816/4A-F Flames bursting from the roof of the General Assembly Library building, Parliament Buildings, Wellington. Photographed by an Evening Post staff photographer on the evening of the 19th of October 1992. Alexander Turnbull Library.

Master plasterer, Ian Colquhoun standing framed by the wooden gothic tracery of a window in the Parliamentary Library building. Photographed by an unknown Evening Post staff photographer on the 1st of July 1995. 

Reference Number: EP/1995/1956/5A-F. Alexander Turnbull Library.

At the foot of Albert Park

Yesterday, on the way to the central library, I hopped off the bus a stop early to get some shots for another upcoming post here -- and ended up photographing more than I intended. Anyway ... it was high time I visited the lower part of Albert Park, separated from the main area by Bowen Avenue these days.

In the above shot, the (rather interesting, I think) tall building to the right of the palm is Metropolis Hotel, fronting onto High Street. More on this, later.

Bowen Avenue, named after the 19th century governor, is a bit of an afterthought (created after Albert Park ceased to be the military base it was), but it is one heck of a busy afterthought! This is the main route up out of the Queen Street/Victoria Street gully for midtown route buses. I've travelled this way by bus thousands of times over the years (and hoofed it uphill a few times. Gasping.)

From the part of Kitchener Street which was once Victoria Quadrant (part of Felton Mathew's grand dreams for the city), this part of Albert Park on a fine winter's day looks inviting. All of this, though, was formed and planted in the 20th century. Victoria Quadrant, at the top of Courthouse, the now-vanished Warspite, and Bacons Lanes was originally partly deep gully until everything was filled in and smoothed out.

Until Council put a chain across this part during the past couple of years, motorists were treating it as a free parking space. This is a visible part of the World War II Albert Park Tunnels complex, entry No. 6.

Then, there is the former Auckland District Court building.

Still looking wonderful, 100 years after construction.

But, there have been changes.

Today, it serves only as the entry to the Metropolis Hotel in behind.

But -- at least it isn't just a facade.

This, on the southern corner of Kitchener and Victoria, is the former Kapai Broom Company building.

Some colour at the top of Victoria Street East ...

Right next to a huge neighbour, in the form of the "Gateway" artwork, by Chris Booth.

I was working in the city from 1986-1992, and would surely have seen the installation underway from around 1990. I have vague memories, but nothing I'd say was definite. For something that's survived 22 years beside a busy traffic junction, the planning starting from before one amalgamation, and now having seen through yet another -- this piece is not doing badly at all.

Wondering about Scroggy in Fruitvale

I had an email enquiry last night, asking for info as to the origin of the name "Scroggy Stream", which flows from Fruitvale down to the Whau River.

Here is my reply:

You've asked a very intriguing question. All I have are bits and pieces, and possible theories, though.

I think the stream was named after the hill -- Allotments 158, 159 and 163 of the Parish of Waikomiti, bounded today by Rua, Tahi and Fruitvale Road. Rua Road used to be Croydon Road, and was a crossing at some point (apparently) with the railway, at which point people called it Scroggy Hill, the highest point between New Lynn and Glen Eden.

The original Crown Grant holder from 1864 was Frederick Lambert Prime, Mayor of Auckland City from 1874-1875. He owned the site through to 1908, and died 5 May 1916. The name "Scroggy Hill" started to appear in the Auckland Star from around 1907, so it might have been a local nickname for the hill. There are Scroggy Hills in Scotland, the work "scrogg" meaning "thick underbrush". 

Prime didn't come from Scotland, though -- he came from Cambridgeshire.

So, if any readers can add insight into the origin of a hill and stream named "Scroggy" out in the underbrush of New Lynn's environs -- feel free to share.

"To see the country of the foreigner": a Maori audience with Emperor Franz Joseph

Image of frigate Novara from expedition report Voyage of the Austrian Frigate Novara around the Earth,

 from Wikipedia.

A chance find via the Auckland Library website, in the database for 19th Century American newspapers, led me to look into another piece of New Zealand's story. 

NEW ZEALAND AND AUSTRIA, OR FRANCIS JOSEPH AND TOETOE.

Two New Zealanders, who have recently arrived in Vienna, were presented to their Majesties on Thursday week. Toetoe, the elder of the two, delivered a speech in his own tongue, and handed a German translation of it to their Majesties, who manifested the greatest interest in the circumstances of the natives of the Antipodes, and the Empress addressed Toetoe, who had some knowledge of English, in that language. M. Zimmerl, of the state printing office, acted as interpreter. The following is a literal translation of the speech delivered on the occasion:

"We greet thee, we greet thee, Francis Joseph, Emperor of Austria. Great has been our desire to see thee, and that is the reason of our journey to this country. We desired to see thee, Emperor of Austria; we desired also to see the country of the foreigner. The commander of thy ship of war, the Novara, said to the Governor of New Zealand that he would allow us to sail with him in order that thou mightest see New Zealanders. The Governor and all the chiefs of the Maoris assented to the wish of the commodore. That is the reason of our journey to this country. All the chiefs of the Maoris said to us, 'Go, that you may see the foreign country; go, that you may see the king of the foreigners.' We greet thee, king of kings, lord of lords, thou that hath above all others rulest, we praise thee and thy name evermore. A strong sceptre is the sceptre of thy kingdom. We greet thee, we greet thee, Francis Joseph, Emperor of Austria: we greet thee, we greet thee, Empress of Austria. We shall inform all people of thy splendour when we shall have returned to New Zealand. These are our words to thee.

WILLIAM TOETOE

SAMUEL RAREHAU."

 ("Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper", New York, 31 March 1860)

The Austrian frigate SMS Novara conveyed Ferdinand von Hochstetter to New Zealand during a voyage around the world sponsored by the Austrian Empire in 1857-1859. At the end of the New Zealand visit, two Waikato iwi notables were invited aboard for a journey to Europe, including Austria and parts of Germany, with the highlight being an audience with Emperor Franz Joseph I and his Empress Elisabeth. Wiremu Toetoe and Hemara Te Rerehau returned with gifts from Europe, and an Austrian gift of a printing press from which was produced copies of Te Hookioi e Rere Atu Na (The Mythical Bird that Flies Up There), a publication promoting the cause of the Maori King against the Crown. Any thoughts in the minds of colonial administrators here that the Austrian visit would cool thoughts of Maori uprising in the face of the power able to be wielded not just by the British but also the other European powers -- came to nought. Wiremu Toetoe fought on the side of the Maori King, and Te Rerehau remained close to Tawhiao to his last years. Opinion in the NZ newspapers of the time hinted at some sort of ungrateful behaviour on the part of Toetoe and Te Rerehau, being given such largesse and a wonderful opportunity, yet oposing Queen Victoria's forces. Toetoe's remarks, reported in 1862 (if true and accurate) do reflect their own point of view, from their European experience: just as there were many monarchs in Europe, so could there also be two kingdoms in New Zealand.

In 2009, Tearepa Kahi and Alexander Behse brought to the small screen a documentary of this scarcely-mentioned meeting of two cultures, in the middle of the 19th century.

The diaries of Wiremu Toetoe and Te Rerehau are available to read here and here, via Te Ao Hou online.

Here are some scraps from Papers Past.

VOYAGE OF THE NOVARA. NEW ZEALAND. [Translated for the Nelson Examiner, by Mrs. Frank Nairn.]

Violent north-easters hindered the departure of the frigate for several days, which afforded our newly made friends in Auckland a wished for opportunity of again showing their cordial hospitality. In consequence of this delay, we also succeeded in shipping two Maoris on board the frigate as sailors, who had only, during the last day's stay, declared themselves ready for the voyage. The official notes which passed upon this subject, between the Colonial Government and the commander of the expedition, bear ample testimony to the care and sympathy with which the New Zealand Government watches over the interests of the Maoris. If endeavoured to obtain for them the most advantageous conditions, and also took into consideration the case, that, after the conclusion of the Novara's campaign, they might desire to return to their homes. At first, four Maoris and a half-caste, had sent, in their names, but when the time arrived for going on board, only two remained firm to their first determination: Wiremu Toetoe Tumohe, and Te Hemara Rerehau Paraone, both of Ngatiapakura, and belonging to the powerful Waikato tribe. Toetoe, himself a chief of the two small tribes of the Ngatiapakuras and of the Ngatiwakohikes, and at the time of his embarkation about thirty-two years of age, had been baptized when about fifteen by an English missionary, and instructed by him in writing and ciphering. At the same time he learned to plough the land and cultivate wheat. In his twentieth year, Toetoe married a half caste, the daughter of an English man and a Maori woman, who bore him a son. In his twenty-sixth year he entered the service of the Colonial Government as a letter carrier, in which situation he was so diligent that, after two years, he was advanced to the postmastership of the district, in which capacity he officiated when the Novara arrived in Auckland. Toetoe was the first chief who showed himself ready to assist the Colonial Government in the making of roads, and, by his own conduct and his influence, not only hindered many chiefs from opposing obstacles to their construction, but even persuaded some of his companions to take part in this important work. This determination to accompany the Novara on her voyage was founded on no other motive than the fulfilment of a long-cherished desire to see other countries and people.

By a similar desire was filled Hemara Rerehau Paraone, the son of a prosperous relation of Toetoe, who had been early baptized, and who, from his twelfth to his eighteenth year, had attended a school founded by English missionaries in Ngatiapakura, in which he learned to write his mother tongue, some English, arithmetic, geography, and history then to plough, to cultivate wheat, to grind corn, and to make bread.

(Nelson Examiner and New Zealand Chronicle, 26 November 1863)

New Zealanders in Austria The Vienna journals state that two natives of New Zealand have been brought to Austria by the Novara, the frigate which has just made a voyage of circumnavigation, and at their own request they are, after a time, when they know the language, to be placed in the Imperial Printing-office, at Vienna.

(Southern Cross 10 February 1860)

Under date, November 5, we have received authenticated intelligence, from a respectable correspondent, which shows the state of the native mind, and the course the natives seem bent on at the present crisis. We make the following extracts:

Some time back William Toetoe and his party proceeded to Mr. Cowell's residence on the Waipa, and demanded his guns, &c. Mr. C. remonstrated with them on the injustice of their demand, when Wm. Toetoe came forward with his tomahawk to attack Mr. Cowell, who said “Throw aside your tomahawk, and come on.'” Another native hereupon rushed in between them and prevented any farther personal violence. Subsequently the natives took Mr. Cowell's guns, and also a gun belonging to Mr. E. W. Dickson, a gentleman residing in Mr. Cowell's house. Walking off with their plunder, they proceeded to another settler's, and demanded his firearms. They were disappointed, however, for the firearms had been secreted before their arrival …

We may mention, for the information of such of our readers as are not aware of the fact, that the native chief William Toetoe, has appeared in the august presence of royalty, having been presented to the Emperor of Austria, by the commandant of the 'Novara,' on the return of that frigate to the German waters. How far his savage habits have been changed by the imperial presence and lengthened intercourse with polished Europeans, may be learned from the aforementioned facts levying black mail seeming more congenial to his tastes than the operations of the printing press presented to him by the Kaiser. But the state of affairs is perilous to Europeans in the Waipa, and steps must speedily be taken for restoring law and order in the district.

(Southern Cross 19 November 1861)

Wednesday, May 14.— Hemara paid a visit here to-day. He is one of the natives whom Dr. Hochstetter took to Europe, and at present acts as commander of the forces to Reihana at Wataroa. He is young, intelligent, soft, and very communicative. He told us in the most innocent manner how his friend William Toetoe is engaged in making powder …

(Southern Cross 25 July 1862)

MAORI REPORT OF THE SPEECHES AT THE MEETING AT PERIA. [From the Maori Government Gazette.~ [TRANSLATION.] The speeches of the meeting at Peria, convened by William Thompson te Whaharoa. To it came the chiefs of the distant districts (whenua), and on the 11th day of October, 1862, the debate commenced.

William Thompson stood up and said The causes for which I have called you to come hither is this it is sufficient for me to have set up the King, but it is for you, the chiefs of this meeting, to examine dispassionately the opinions (literally words) which may be published now (or spoken). The good or the evil regarding the road at Maungatawhiri and Whaingaroa, whether it (the road) may be thrown open or closed. These are the things you have to do …

Up stood Wiremu Toetoe, of Waikato, and he said" "Listen to me, all you tribes of this meeting. I was the bad man in the days of the reign of king Potatau (the first) but I have been to the countries of Europe, and I have seen the kings, each one who is sitting (or ruling) in that great country of Europe. The power or jurisdiction of one king does not overlap the power or jurisdiction of another king. From having seen these things. I first became aware that the idea of the natives in setting up a king for themselves was correct. Therefore, I say, stop the road"

(Taranaki Herald 20 December 1862)

The settlers at Awhitu are also very unprotected, particularly those living at the Manukau signal station. Wiremu Toetoe, a notorious Hauhau, is engaged shark-fishing there with a band of reckless rebels, who are forwarding the food supplies up the Waikato river to the kingites. Wiremu is a good sample of many friendly natives. He was a stonecutter, and assisted to build the old barrack wall. He was afterwards taken to Europe in the Novara, frigate, and treated very kindly, returning loaded with presents. Almost immediately upon landing he joined the kingites in the last war, and fought fiercely against our forces, being especially conspicuous at Pah te Rangi. The Waikato Times urges that the canoes going up the river in such numbers at the present time should be searched. In all probability arms and ammunition are finding their way into the king territory in these canoes.

(Auckland Star 23 May 1873)

I have once more to chronicle the death of another well-known native chief, viz., Wiremu Toetoe of the Ngatiapakura. William, in old times before the war, was a well-known and well-respected native in affluent circumstances, residing at Rangiaohia. For some years he was the mail contractor between Auckland and Te Awamutu. When the Austrian scientific expedition visited New Zealand, Toetoe was with Dr Hochstetter in his explorations in the Waikato, and so strong an attachment sprung up between them that Toetoe, with another native named Honiara Te Rerehau, accompanied the expedition home in their vessel— the Novara (if I recollect rightly). Toetoe and Hemara were well received on the continent, and had the honour of an introduction to several of the crowned heads of Europe. From thence they paid visit to England, where he had the further honour of an interview with the Queen and Royal Family and the Duke of Cambridge, who presented him with their portraits. Toetoe received many valuable presents on his tour, and when they returned to Auckland was without doubt the most polished native in the country. They had a smattering of French and German, and aped the manners (the former especially) and for a time were quite the lions of Auckland. When the war broke out in Waikato, Toetoe was sent up by the Government, as it was hoped, to be a valuable agent in explaining to the natives the folly of entering upon a war with the English, whose strength, as a nation, he was so well qualified to explain to them. Toetoe started on his mission, hopeful, I believe, of opening the eyes of his countrymen to their folly, as he told me when I met him at Newmarket on his way up to Waikato. The result of his visit however, is now well known, he threw in his lot with his people, and lost the bulk of his property. Toetoe has for some time past been down Waikato, gum-digging and flax-cutting. He was brought up here a few days ago, unwell, and died at Kaipiha yesterday on his way to Hikurangi. The deceased was brother-in-law to the late Mr John Cowle, Mrs Cowle being Toetoe’s sister. A few minutes before his death he regretted he had not seen them. His decease was not expected by the natives so suddenly, as he was walking about the previous night. Yesterday and to-day a great tangi is being held over his remains.

(Waikato Times 24 February 1881)

TAWHIAO AND HIS CHIEFS. The Maori King and his party, on their arrival in Auckland, were quartered in three houses at Orakei, Tawhiao and the more immediate members of his family having one exclusively dedicated to his own use …

Among the chiefs whom we saw yesterday during our visit was Te Manuhiri (Tamati Ngapora) and Hemara Rerehau, whom we had not seen since the first Taranaki war … Hemara Rerehau was one of the chiefs chosen to visit Europe in the Novara, Austrian war ship, which called at Auckland in 1859, while on a scientific expedition. Wiremu Toetoe was the other chief selected, and they were placed under the care of Dr Hochstetter, so well known to old New Zealand colonists. Hemara showed us a letter he had recently received from the doctor, enclosing his photograph, so that it will be seen that he has not forgotten his old Maori friends. The letter is dated from Vienna, Oct. 19 last, and in it the doctor says:— “Salutations to you. I was very much pleased to receive your letter through Dr Finsch. Your Vienna friends send their greetings. I send you a photograph of myself, and desire one of you, and of your King Tawhiao, if you can get it. When and how did Wiremu Toetoe die?” Wiremu Toetoe, it will be remembered, died some months back. After his return from Europe, Hemara Rerehau was a Maori Beau Brummel of the first water, and might have been seen doing the Queen street pavement in a faultless suit of broad cloth, with scented cambric pocket-handkerchief and walking cane. The instincts of his race were too strong upon him, however, and notwithstanding all he had seen in Austria, Germany, Franco, and England to prove the irresistible power of the pakeha, he cast in his lot with his kingite countrymen in the vain attempt to stem the onward march of civilisation. Squatted yesterday a la Maori, with a shawl thrown carelessly around his loins, few would have recognised in Hemara Rerehau the ex-dandy of the Novara epoch.

(Christchurch Star 2 February 1882) 

As for the frigate Novara, built from 1843-1851, it was converted to steam-screw in 1861, was involved at the Battle of Lissa in 1866, and conveyed the body of Emperor Maximillian of Mexico home for burial in the Hapsburg crypt in Vienna in 1867. Refitted 1870-71, it was primarily used for sail training until 1876, when converted to a hulk. It was a gunnery training ship from 1881, stricken in 1898, and finally scrapped in 1899.

Wellington's central libraries

This image from a postcard shows the 1893 Wellington Public Library, a combination building linked with a technical school, at the intersection of Mercer and Wakefield Streets. It caught my eye because of the somewhat similar architecture used for the Leys Institute here in Auckland, a decade later. (Different architect, though).

Auckland Weekly News, 30 March 1905, ref AWNS-19050330-11-5, Sir George Grey Special Collections, 

Auckland Library

Anyway, back to Wellington, which has a timeline history online for its libraries.

In 1893, to the design of William Crichton, the Wellington central public library was opened.

In a day or two Messrs. R. Carmichael and Son, the contractors for the erection of the Public Library, will be in a position to hand over the building to the City Council. Work was begun early in December, 1891, but owing to a difficulty in obtaining Mount Somers stone, the completion of the undertaking has been delayed until the present. The building is a very handsome one of red brick, faced with white stone from the Ashburton district, and has been erected in a manner which has given Mr. W. Crichton, the architect, every satisfaction. The news-room, 56ft x 56ft, is on the ground floor, and contains reading desks capable of accommodating 78 papers. The desks are made of kauri and red pine, and each in surmounted by a couple of electric lamps. At each end of the room is a large fireplace with tile hearth and fender and an enamelled slate mantelpiece. Gaspipes have also been laid down, and if the necessity arises the fittings can be put into the room in a day or two. There is an apartment for the librarian on one side of the news-room. 

Leading off the stairs, a few feet above the ground floor, is a room which is intended for boys. It is provided with a number of tables and comfortable cane-bottomed chairs, and is to be lighted by electricity. Immediately above this room, on the upper floor, is another of equal size, which is to contain the magazines, and adjoining is situated the reference library, 56ft 9in by 56ft 9in. fitted with shelves for about 7000 volumes. The tables are 13 in number, and each is provided with electric light fittings. In order that there may be no overcrowding, only three persons are to be allowed to sit at each table. Ascending a narrow staircase the tower is reached, and a fine view of the city obtained. 

On the ground floor there are lavatories and the usual conveniences. Mr. James Freyberg's ornamental flooring has been laid in the vestibule, and is bound to attract the attention of every visitor. The flooring consists of a combination of New Zealand woods arranged artistically, and the effect is really fine. The centre resembles the Roman tiling in St. Albans Abbey, pine timber having been used by Mr. Freyberg to make the desired pattern, while the border, made of kauri and matai, represents the Grecian key. The flooring has been cemented with a preparation of local invention, and cannot be removed except a hammer and chisel are brought into use. Mr. Freyberg has been warmly complimented on the success of his work by a leading Melbourne architect who recently visited Wellington. The floor of the porch is also very ornamental, Mr. Burton, plasterer, having brought all his resources to bear in making an artistic design. The buildings are thoroughly ventilated, and the rooms are well lighted in the daytime, appliances for suppressing fire have been placed on each landing. 

The plumbing was done by Mr. J. E. Hayes, the painting, varnishing, &c., by Mr. Tustin, and the plastering by Mr. Burton, each of whom has carried out his sub-contract very satisfactorily. Mr. Godfrey, of Dunedin, carved the stonework over the windows and doors, and Mr. E. Seagar manufactured a massive iron gate for the entrance. The whole of the bricks and the patent ridging and crests were supplied by Mr. H Hill, of Wellington, and are a credit to his factory. Mr. T. S. Powell has made a very efficient clerk of works. 

(Evening Post 26 January 1893)

View of Wellington Public Library from Mercer-Wakefield Street site, Ca 1890s Reference Number: 10X8-0011-G, Alexander Turnbull library

William Crichton, the building's architect, had a bad accident later on while on the construction site of the Wellington Hospital in June 1926, overbalancing on a trestle and falling ten feet. He seemingly recovered, and continued his work but was never completely well afterward. He died in April 1928.

Very general and sincere regret will be expressed at the death of Mr. William Chrichton, of the firm of Crichton, McKay, and Haughton, architects, which took place unexpectedly at 6 o'clock this morning. ... The late Mr. Crichton was a son of the late Mr. George Crichton, merchant, of Wellington, and was born at Cornwall, England, in 1861, coming out to New Zealand with his parents 47 years ago in the ship Chile as a young man. Soon after his arrival here he entered the Public Works Department, and subsequently left to enter business as an architect on his own account. In 1901 he was joined by Mr. J. H. McKay, and the firm continued under the name of Crichton and McKay until 1923, when Mr. V. P. Haughton was admitted into partnership, and the name of the firm was altered to Crichton, McKay, and Haughton. Among the many buildings which the firm has erected are the Wellington Public Hospital, the new "Dominion" building, the Bowen street hospital, U.S.S Co. building, Banks of New South Wales and Australasia buildings, new Huddart-Parker building, and many hospital buildings in various parts of the country. Recently Mr. Crichton was appointed by the Wellington City Council to act with Messrs. W. Page and S. V. Fearn to formulate and report upon a scheme for a civic centre in Wellington. He leaves a widow to mourn her loss, and much sympathy will be extended to her, Mr. Crichton being a man of a very lovable nature and exceedingly popular wherever he went. Mr. Crichton's principal recreations were racing and motoring, he being one of the original guarantors of the Wellington Racing Club.

(EP 5 April 1928) 

The library Crichton designed lasted only 12 years after his death. By 1935, it was found to be inadequate, and plans were drawn up for funding loans and a new design by the firm of Gummer Ford. The old library closed 8 February 1920, and the new one opened 5 days later.

Wellington Public Library in Mercer Street, ca 1940 Reference Number: 1/1-015911-F Looking across Mercer Street, and the parked cars, at the Wellington Public Library. Taken by Gordon Burt circa 1940. Alexander Turnbull Library.

Of course, times being as they are and ever-changing, this later library was replaced in the 1980s-1990s by a new version, part of Wellington's Civic Centre development, still in the same area.