Domain Waters 4: the Waipapa Hostels

"Looking south from the foreshore of Mechanics Bay showing the Maori Hostelry (right), Gittos Street (left to right centre), Maori canoes in foreground," c.1860, ref 4-2730, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries

Back in the 1840s and 1850s, commerce and trading links with Maori was a vital factor in the survival of early Auckland. It was at Mechanics Bay that trading took place, the developing Auckland lacking a true market place until the 1870s. The story goes that as it was noticed that visiting Maori, with no accommodation, were roughing it beneath waka sails and canvas, perhaps a place for them to stay and to trade was in order.

So, a nearly triangular reserve was set aside, granted to trustees led by the Colonial Secretary Andrew Sinclair. It fronted the beach at Mechanic's Bay, and served as an ideal filler in the space between the sweeping downhill curve of Alten Road, and Stanley Street. Upon it, the Government built the first of two native hostelries there. Another, slightly later, was built at Princes Street, Onehunga.

New Zealander 21 August 1849

1858/1859, "Looking east from Constitution Hill towards Parnell, showing the Maori Hostelry on Gittos Street later Parnell Rise (foreground), Stanley Street (left to right across centre), Livery Stables on Stanley Street (extreme left), and Mechanics Bay (left foreground)", reference 4-1117, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries.

One step of practical utility for the benefit of the Maories being of more real value than a hundred theories or speculations of fine-spun sentimentality respecting their capabilities and prospects, we look with unaffected pleasure on the erection of the commodious building in Mechanics' Bay which, under the designation of The Maori Hostelry is now open, according to Regulations which have just been issued, and which we subjoin. The main object is to provide a place of shelter in which the Natives may sleep during their temporary sojourns in the town we say the main object, for although, while we are awaiting the building of the regular market, which (under the auspices of the Government, and by the exertions of the New Ulster Agricultural Society) we hope to see speedily established at the very suitable site adjoining the junction of Queen and Shortland Streets, we are far from undervaluing the facilities which the yard and verandah of the Hostelry will afford for the sale of articles of native produce, we yet regard this as but a secondary advantage to be derived from the Institution …

The following code of regulations to be observed by those who may avail themselves of the advantage, has been issued from the Native Secretary's Office, and was yesterday posted in the Hostelry.

Persons occupying this building must attend to the following Regulations which will be strictly enforced.

1 No Cooking will be allowed to be done inside the Building, nor within fifteen yards of the outside.

2. The interior of the Building and the yard must at all times be kept clean.

3. No Potato Peelings, Fish Bones, or other dirt may be thrown in the yard or within fifteen yards of the Premises, but a hole will be dug at some distance wherein to put all the refuse.

4. Every party upon leaving the Building will be called upon to deliver the key of the compartment which they have occupied to a person appointed to receive it.

5. Before leaving the Premises the part occupied must be properly cleaned by the party using it.

6. No damage must be done to the Walls, Windows, or other part of the Building, and any person doing such damage will be called upon to make it good, or be excluded from the benefits accruing from the Institution till such damage is made good.

7. The Yard and the Verandah in front are intended to be used as a market place where goods may be exposed for Sale, but no pigs will be allowed within the inclosure, nor will any refuse be allowed to remain.

8. Dirt being one of the greatest promoters of sickness, it is expected that these regulations, which are framed for the comfort and convenience of the natives, will be strictly enforced by the Chiefs who may be present.

9. The Police have orders to visit the Hostelry frequently during their rounds, and to enforce strict attention to these regulations as well as to take care that order and regularity be preserved.

10. Any person disturbing the peace or tranquillity of the place by fighting or quarrelling will be immediately ejected.
11. The Natives will be admitted free from any charge whatever, C. A. Dillon, Native Secretary. February 1st, 1850

New Zealander 27 February 1850

On 18 October 1850, a Crown Grant for the site was taken out by Andrew Sinclair and others. This was finally lodged with Lands and Survey in 1885. (14A.458, LINZ records)

c.1860s, "Looking west from Selwyn (later Augustus Terrace) showing Mechanics Bay (foreground right), ... Maori Hostelry (centre right) ...", reference 4-380, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries.

Right from the start, the hostelry was provided with an income stream separate from whatever money collected from travellers who weren't Maori.

A Government Gazette was issued yesterday. The following is a summary of its principal contents. It is notified that a section of land exceeding six acres in St. George's Bay has been appropriated as Reserved Lands for the maintenance of the Native Hostelry in Mechanics' Bay to be vested in the Colonial Secretary, Attorney General, and Colonial Treasurer, for the time being, to be by them held in trust and administered for the benefit of this Institution …

New Zealander 17 May 1851

Gradually, though, these extra reserves were whittled away by surrounding territorial authorities. Come the very-brief Auckland Borough of 1851-1852, the Councillors were of the opinion that the hostel should be like any other charitable institution, such as the hospital, and come under their control.

Municipal Council meeting

The Native Hostel

This reserve, consisting of 6 acres 1 rood 0 perches, is vested in official trustees, by deed of grant dated the 9th of May, 1851, for the maintenance and repair of the Hostelry erected thereon, as a Lodging House and Store, or Market-place, where her Majesty's native subjects and other poor persons visiting Auckland, may temporarily reside free of charge, with their goods and wares, and there dispose of such produce as they may bring from the country for sale. This Institution is one of considerable and increasing importance. If the Town Market is ever to be made a source of revenue, and the Council are to attempt to raise market tolls and dues, one step must be the suppression of native hawkers, and to this end the regulation of this Hostelry should be certainly under their control. It appears that two other sections, one in Auckland consisting of 2 acres 0 rood 14 perches, and the other in Onehunga, consisting of 2 acres 0 rood 9 perches, have been also set apart for the construction and maintenance of similar institutions.

Southern Cross 9 March 1852

But this didn't happen, and the hostelry remained a Government operation, overseen by the Native Department.

(In a letter by “One Who Will Have To Pay”, re criticism as to the design of the proposed Government House) The public might possibly endure a repetition of such petty triflings as the Maori Hostelry, with its verandah, erected as if only to be swept away by the first passing breeze …

Southern Cross 30 September 1853

In 1853, the new Auckland Provincial Council was advised by the Colonial Secretary that the Hostelry Reserves brought in £15 in income. They demanded that this income be handed over to the Council. A demand that is likely to have fallen on deaf ears.

1870s, "Looking east from Constitution Hill (foreground), showing Maori Hostelry (centre), Stanley Street (left to right middle) and Parnell (distance)," reference 4-2725, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries.

In 1861, a man named Ihaka was in charge (as Keeper) of the Auckland Native Hostelry, on a salary from the Native Department of £31 4s per year. (AJHR, E-05, 1861) During the 1860s, the hostel seemed to become increasingly redundant. This was the period of the Land Wars at their height. In 1864, at a meeting of those concerned for soldiers wives and children, John Sangster Macfarlane suggested that the Native Hostelry be used as there were rarely more than two occupants there at any one time. (Southern Cross 28 January 1864)

Still, the Auckland and Onehunga Native Hostelry Act 1867 formalised the hostelry reserves at Mechanic’s Bay – Lot 4 of Section 12, City of Auckland (half-acre), later part of which was taken for the creation of Beach Road, and Lot 19 of Section 9 City of Auckland, just over 2 acres (hostel site). 1870 saw the beginning of leases of the main hostel site between Alten Road and Stanley Street. Around 1870-1875 Custodians of the hostel appear to have been John Scott McNamara (until his death in 1875) and his wife Frances.

1877, "Mechanics Bay looking north east from the vicinity of Alten Road showing railway embankment, Fraser and Tinne's Foundry (right of centre distance), Union Sash and Door Company (extreme right) and Maori Hostelry (foreground), North Head, Mount Victoria and Rangitoto (far distance)," reference 4-528, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries.

From the AJHR, Report from Charles Heaphy, the Commissioner of Native Reserves, F-04, 1871.

The Native Reserves in this Province have been set apart in the following manner

1. By contract made with the native sellers of the land.

2. By the voluntary action of the Governor in setting apart Crown lands as hostelry and school sites, and lands for the endowment of such institutions.

3. By agreement with friendly and loyal natives in lands taken under The New Zealand Settlements Act, 1863.

4. By appropriation out of confiscated blocks for surrendered rebels.

5. At the instance of the natives and by the Governor, on the recommendation of the Judges of the Native Land Court …

In order to show the degree of responsibility attaching to the Government in respect to these reserves, I have classified them as follows Class A. —Trusts under provisions of Crown Grants or legislative enactment,

1. With a distinct and specified purpose.

2. For the benefit of natives generally …

Under Class A will be found the Hostelry sites in Auckland and Onehunga, with the Hostelry Maintenance Reserves at Mechanics' Bay and St. George's Bay. The particulars of rents, &c, of these reserves will be found under the head of Utilization …

UTILIZATION OF RESERVES. By the action of the Native Land Court the great mass of the Native Reserves in the Province of Auckland have been granted to the natives for whose benefit they were originally set apart … The Hostelry Maintenance Reserve No. 4, of Section 12, City of Auckland, has, until this year, remained unused. The footpath in common use from Auckland to Mechanics' Bay traversed its length, and access had to be free to a spring of water in the centre of the allotment. Upon offering, publicly, a portion of this land in March last for lease, objection was taken by the trustees of the adjoining estate of Hone Ropiha's to its probable enclosure. It appeared that the Crown had conveyed away a small street that had formerly given access (on paper) to Hone Ropiha's land in the rear of the hostelry reserve, which was then Crown land. The trustees claimed a right of way through the land, and as it appeared that they would suffer an injustice if the reserve were enclosed, a lane 12 feet wide was set out along the western end of the reserve to afford the required access. [This "small street" had been the lower reaches of Alten Road. The replacement lane became Commercial, later Churchill Road.] The ground lying between this lane and the spring was then offered at public auction on lease for 21 years, and let to Mr. J. T. E. Rogan for £14 a year. The Municipal Council have commenced the construction of a path outside of the reserve, it having already been intimated that rent would be required for the further use of the land. [Possibly the start of the footpath down Constitution Hill] When completed this path will afford good frontage access to the remaining part of the reserve, which I estimate may yield about £15 a year on a 21 years' lease. I propose that the sum of £40 shall be appropriated out of the proceeds of the hostelry lands for the purpose of leading the water from the spring to a fountain, to be constructed on the flat near the hostelry, where the water will be of benefit to the natives and the inhabitants of the neighbourhood generally. The lease of the part let contains a provision to prevent the contamination of the water. …The lease of the hostelry maintenance land at George's Point, Allotment 89, Section 1, will expire on the 9th June, 1573. Six and a quarter acres are here let for £13 a year. propose to divide the land into four building lots, which I estimate would yield an aggregate of £40 a year. The local authorities have lately taken down the native market sheds at the entrance of Queen-street Wharf. The hostelry site in Mechanics' Bay is too far from the centre of population of the city for the convenience of purchasers at a market. Therefore recommend that a quarter of an acre of the reserve at Point Britomart, near the Breakwater, should be set apart for a native produce market site. The surface of the reserve is now 40 feet above the beach, but earth is required for filling the intake, and the alteration of level for as much space as will be required at first will present no great difficulty.

Following on from the efforts of the Auckland Borough  and Provincial Councils to take over the hostel, the 1870s saw the Auckland Harbour Board, for their own reasons, put the idea on the table.

The Chairman read a letter which he had written to Mr. H T Kemp, Native Commissioner, on the subject of providing accommodation tor Maoris who brought fruit, &c, to market in their boats, in which he stated that the nuisance caused by the Maoris in the centre of the town was such as to necessitate their removal from the Queen-street Wharf, and almost to compel the Board to place them on an equal footing with regard to accommodation with the Europeans. He had received an answer from Mr. Kemp, who stated that it was proposed to issue certain sanitary regulations, the non-compliance with which, on the part of the natives, would preclude them from the privilege of being allowed to use the allotment granted to then. In the meantime, those now occupying Gore-street jetty had been removed to Mechanics' Bay. The Chairman stated that there were so many complaints of the nuisance caused by the Maoris occupying the wharf, and the danger to property, that he had felt it his duty to write strongly to the Native Commissioner.

Mr. Boylan suggested that the Board should offer to take over the Maori hostelry and endowment, and provide accommodation for the natives. He believed the property was a very handsome one. The Chairman said he would make the offer.

Harbour Board meeting, Southern Cross 26 March 1873

Probably not in response to this, but coincidentally all the same, the Native Reserves Act 1873 vested the hostel reserves in the Native Reserves Commissioner, and replaced the 1867 Act.

Beach Road continued apace, as reclamations began to add to the hostel's detachment from its historic roots. The beach upon which waka would rest while the visitors stayed and traded began to be pushed further and further away to the north.

The reclamation is now carried to within a hundred yards of the Maori hostelry, at which point the road is to debouch on the Parnell road. As the new thoroughfare approaches completion, the ridiculous mistake made in the route becomes more palpable. The road undoubtedly ought to have been carried nearly in a straight line to the junction of Stanley-street, close to the viaduct. The course now adopted makes a needless unsightly angle, besides adding considerably to the distance between Parnell and the city. On this thoroughfare will ultimately be one of the most popular in Auckland, the public advantage ought to have been consulted better than it has been. So far as we can learn, the considerations which have weighed to give the road its present direction are utterly unworthy of being entertained to the sacrifice of general utility.

Auckland Star 1 August 1874

There were three hostel reserves in the Mechanic's Bay/Parnell area. The other one was up on Campbell's Point. Unlike the Mechanics Bay area, it wasn't brought under firm legislation.

Parliament
Replying to Mr Moss's question about 8 acres of a reserve near Dr. Campbell's house, Parnell, Mr Bryce said he was not quite sure which piece of land was referred to. There were three sections reserved for a Maori hostelry, one being two acres, and another less than an acre. The third, which is described as in the suburbs of Auckland, is six acres if that is the one referred to, it was vested in the Colonial Treasurer and Secretary and their successors.

Auckland Star 8 June 1882

While under the Native Reserves Act 1882, the main hostel reserve came under the Public Trust office, from the Native Department, the Campbell's Point land was fair game for exchange between departments, and with the Parnell Borough Council.

PARNELL BOROUGH COUNCIL.

It was agreed that the Town Clerk point out to the Minister of Public Works that there was a piece of land near Dr. Campbell's (the Maori hostelry reserve) which the Council was willing to accept in exchange for that taken at Point Resolution.

Auckland Star 23 March 1886

Campbell's Point.—A letter signed by 22 ratepayers was read, bringing to the Council's notice the dangerous state of the cliff at Campbell's Point, and remarking that no steps had been taken to prevent a recurrence of accidents at the place in question. The letter previously received from the Public Trustee, who had been applied to have the property fenced, was to the effect that the land was a Maori hostelry endowment, and being private land the public had no right there, and there was no obligation on the owner or occupier to fence the land.—it was resolved that a copy of the Public Trustee's letter be sent to the Petitioners.

Auckland Star 13 November 1888

12 March 1903, "the Maori Hostelry in The Strand (now Parnell Rise) with a group of people standing outside and a gas lamp (left foreground)", reference 1-W1047, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries

V W Devally was the custodian of the hostel in 1895 (AJHR, G-05, 1895). During the custodianship of the Devallys, a man died suddenly there, sparking an inquest.

SUDDEN DEATH.

A MINER'S END.

BODY FOUND IN THE MAORI HOSTELRY

DEATH FROM BURSTING A BLOOD VESSEL.

The dead body of an ex-Thames miner named Thomas Glyn, was found last night in one of the rooms of the old Maori hostelry in Mechanic's Bay, under peculiar circumstances. The building known as the Maori hostelry is in a somewhat dilapidated condition, and is generally used by Maoris visiting town as a sleeping place. The doors of the rooms are unlocked, as the natives either take the keys away with them or lose them, and as a consequence the hostelry is often made use of for a night's shelter by street loafers and others who cannot afford to pay for a bed. The place is in the care of Mrs Devally, who lives on the premises.

Last night about half-past ten o’clock Mrs Devally and her daughter heard a sound in one of the rooms of the hostelry as if some one was sick or vomiting. Mrs Devally called out at the door of the room, “You had better clear out or I'll get the police," thinking that the person in the room was drunk and might set the place on tire. She received no answer, and returned to her rooms on the western side of the quadrangle. Shortly after, her daughter (Mrs Judge) says that she saw a man come out of the building and go out on to the street. He had no hat on, and seemed to be in the act of putting his coat on. At eleven o'clock, Mrs Devally, before going to bed, took a light, and with her daughter went round the place to see that all was right, and the building empty. In one of the rooms the two women found a man lying on his back on the floor, dead, with his face covered with blood.

Mrs Devally roused her son Peter, who looked at the man, and then want up to Parnell and informed Constable Hutchison. He also aroused Dr. Orpen, who lives at the top of Constitution Hill. Dr. Orpen and Constable Hutchison examined the man, and the doctor declared life extinct. The face was covered with blood, and there were splashes of blood, evidently caused by expectoration, in one corner of the room. There was also a heavy gout of blood in front of the fireplace in the room, about two feet from the man's feet as he lay on a bundle of flax winch served as a mattress on the floor. The man's shirt sleeves were rolled up, his boots were taken off, and his coat was folded up in a corner as if he had lain down to sleep. His attitude was a peaceful one, and when the blood was washed off his face no marks of violence were visible.

Sergeant Gamble and Detective Grace were early on the scene, and proceeded to investigate the circumstances surrounding the man's death. Detective Grace soon ascertained the identity of the man, and found a document, in his pocket bearing the name of Thomas Glyn, certifying that the bearer was a qualified quartz miner, and signed by Mr Clark, of the Thames. The remains were identified as those of Thomas Glyn, a Cornishman, of about 45 or 46 years of age.

The deceased, it appears, was a miner at the Thames for many years. A number of years ago, Detective Grace was acquainted with the man at the Thames, where he bore the reputation of a hardworking and capable miner. Glyn also worked for some time at the silver mines at Broken Hill, New South Wales. His wife died some time ago, it is said, but there is a daughter living. Some months ago, deceased got out of work, and came to Auckland, where he has been wandering around ever since without work. He was looking bad some time ago when seen in the Waitemata Hotel by Mr Endcan, the proprietor, who noticed that one of his ears was injured, as if he had fallen heavily on the side of his head. It is not considered that there was any foul play in the matter, the police being of opinion that death "was the result of natural causes.”

Drs. Lindsay and King, besides Dr. Orpen, were in attendance at the hostelry last night, but as life was extinct the medical men could do nothing.

An inquest on Glyn's remains was proceeding as we went to press this afternoon at the Swan Hotel, Mechanics' Bay. Dr. King made a post mortem examination of the body prior to the inquest With reference to the man who was seen by Mrs Devally's daughter to leave the hostelry about 10.30, it is believed that this was the man Glyn, and that after going out into the street he came back again and lay down on the spot where he died. The post mortem showed that there was a large cavity in the man's lung and that death was the result of the bursting of a blood vessel. A verdict was returned in accordance with the medical testimony.

Auckland Star 23 April 1894

In August 1898, given the squalid conditions as described above, the Native Affairs Committee recommended to the Government that it was best to provide "better accommodation for travelling natives at Auckland than that at present afforded in the native hostelry at Waipapa (Mechanic's Bay.)  The Auckland Star was especially critical when it came to be time for a Royal Visit.

Our attention has been called to the very unsightly condition of a number of very old buildings in "The Strand," Mechanics' Bay and it is suggested that the City Council should take steps to have these rookeries removed. The old Maori hostelry is especially unsightly, and should be replaced by a hew building. The route of the Royal visit to Parnell next month will be past these ramshackle buildings, and it is considered that that fact should open the eyes of the city authorities to these hovels, which should have been razed long ago. Some of the land belongs to the Government.

Auckland Star 28 May 1901

HOUSING MAORI TRAVELLERS. The Maori hostelry in Auckland has an annual income of £149 from native reserves, and as the up-keep costs about £30 there is a good deal of i money in the hands of the Public Trustee to the credit of this institution. The Government thinks that a new and commodious building should be erected in place of the present building. This information was given by Mr Carroll to Mr Hone Heke, who had a question on the order paper today, asking the Government if they would pull down the present structure and erect a better one. Mr Carroll also mentioned that as some of the natives were finding a difficulty in getting accommodation at the hotels the Government intended to erect a large hostelry at New Plymouth. Mr Heke asked the Minister to consider the question of a hostelry at Onehunga at the same time.

Auckland Star 5 October 1901

March 1903, "Showing the front view of the Maori Hostelry in The Strand (was Gittos Street, now Parnell Rise), with people standing outside," reference 1-W1540, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries

MAORI HOSTELRY. A promise was made by the Government last year that a new building would be built to replace the Maori hostelry at Waipapa (Mechanics' Bay), Auckland, and that steps were being taken to erect a similar building at Onehunga. Enquiry made by Mr Heke as to why this work had not been proceeded with elicited from the acting-Premier the statement that the site of the Auckland Maori hostelry is very low and unhealthy, and that it is proposed to exchange the present site for one on higher ground. The Onehunga site, which is vested in the Public Trustee, is on swampy ground, and inquiry is being made for a more suitable site.

Auckland Star 5 September 1902

Tenders will be received until noon of the 2nd March for the Erection of a Maori Hostelry in Mechanics' Bay. R. KEALS AND SONS, Architects. 301, Victoria Arcade.

Auckland Star 13 February 1903

The scene as at 12 March 1903. The hostelry is the first major building at the bottom of Constitution Hill. Reference 1-W1046, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries.

Contrast the scene above with this one a year later, 21 March 1904. The new hostel can be seen on the right. Reference 1-W942, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries.

Deed 116 (LINZ records, crown copyright), dating from 1916, shows the development of the original hostel reserve, leasehold sites providing income for the Public Trustee. On 1 April 1921, the Native Trust Office was set up under the Native Trustee Act 1920. The hostel reserve passed from the Public Trustee's control to that of the NTO. In 1953 the Maori Trustee Office established under the Maori Trustee Act 1953. Now the hostel came under the Department of Maori Affairs.

Even though the second hostel on the site was only just over 50 years old -- it was termed "old", and visiting Maori, according to the NZ Herald (30 August 1955) stressed "the urgent need to give effect to plans to erect a £35,000 on the site." The description of the hostel in the mid-1950s sounds as if, apart from electricity, little had changed since 1903.

At present the hostel, with its drab interior, lack of facilities and fantastically low tariff, offends the self respecting Maori traveller. In spite of this, parties of country schoolchildren have been accommodated there for a week, creating among them a bad impression of city life and of the provisions made for Maoris in Auckland ...

... it has the appearance of a prison yard with its large asphalt courtyard lined with rooms on three sides. This central area is probably a relic of the days when the Maoris tethered their horses there.

There is no furniture in some of the 10 rooms. Others have only a table. The occupants pay 2s 6d a night for a mattress on the floor. Those who prefer a higher standard obtain the use of a bedstead for 5s. The tariff used to be 1s and 2s 6d and at one time Maoris stayed there free of charge.

The guests complain that they have to do their washing in leaky buckets under a tap in the open. They say there is rarely hot water. No provision is made for ironing clothes. The bathroom has a bath and washbasin, but the interior is shabby.

If the occupants want to make a cup of tea they resort to the community kitchen. They say electricity is used only for lighting, which is switched off from 11 pm until 6 pm.

The kitchen has a coal range which is virtually useless and an open fireplace where pots are placed on hobs. The only furniture is a table and forms. There are no cupboards and only a few shelves. A blunt and broken axe is provided for chopping wood ...

Water for cooking is drawn from a tap in the backyard. The only telephone is in the caretaker's house next door, so guests have to use the public telephone in the street.

Little wonder, then, that in August 1966, the second and last Maori hostelry in Mechanic's Bay was demolished. At the time, the site was set to be the terminus of a motorway extension. Today, though, it remains as a car park, under Maori freehold ownership.

Domain Waters 3: Mechanic's Hill

Edward Ashworth's "Mechanic's Bay", c.1843. Ref A-208-109, Alexander Turnbull Library

Third in a series. The first two are here and here.

Richard Simpson's presentation, both at his talk on 25th September and online, is in error when it comes to using the above simple sketch of Mechanic's Bay to illustrate the path of the Waipapa. The lowest reaches of the stream in the early days were more or less a swamp, before serious efforts to drain the swamp and channel the waters from the Domain streams by mill race came into use. It was in confluence with the Waiparuru (from Stanley Street) and the Domain Springs flow just before the rope walk which appeared just after the period Ashworth's scene, behind and beside the surprisingly large building which was likely the early store on the future Strand/Swan Hotel site. There is every possibility that the small undulating line coming down Mechanic's Hill towards the bay is not the Waipapa as Richard has labelled it -- but yet another small stream of water, draining the land as the Waipapa Stream does, as does the sister streams from the Domain, and the Waiparuru.

"Parnell and Mechanics Bay, Auckland, in 1864. Shows Parnell Rise and Maori men's hostel in the foreground." Ref 1/2-036270-F, Alexander Turnbull Library.

Ashworth's sketch, even given at least some artistic licence in terms of the lay of the land, illustrates what can be seen in the above image: a very rough landscape up Mechanic's Hill (Parnell Rise) towards Parnell, with gullies bearing their own small water courses which are not the stream recognised today as the Waipapa. Which, in turn, was named after the bay into which it, along with the other streams, drains. Even today (although, of course, beyond The Strand, the drainage is piped underground.)

Mechanic's Hill and The Strand, from late c.1850s. Ref 4-1118, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries

Another oddity about the hillside just off Parnell Rise is this photo from at the earliest the late 1850s (the hotel at the corner of Stanley Street dates from 1856). Hugh Stringleman's book Agricultural Heritage (2010) p. 38 makes the error of calling the "long building in the centre" the Rope Walk, when it definitely isn't. But -- what was it?

I went looking for the answer in old survey plans.

The building is approximately where Bedford Street comes off Parnell Rise today, according to Stringleman, so -- I looked there, and found that (a) that area was part of the Grammar School endowment property, and (b) that the building appears to be this:

Both details from SO 821, LINZ records, crown copyright

A rectangular shape on the plan, apparently just beside what was to become Mutu Street. The wording inside the black blodge left from the scanning seems to read "brick shed". So -- someone was making bricks in the vicinity, and using this structure as a dryer? I haven't tracked down the brickmaker yet, and would love to receive suggestions. Would this enterprise have been one of those utilising the Waipapa bush stream? Unlikely, when it apparently (according to Ashworth) had its own trickle to use. If the date on the National Library photograph is accurate -- whoever was forming bricks in the area didn't last long. But then, who knows? There are always more questions as time goes on when it comes to the Waipapa shores.

Update 5 October 2011: Carolyn Cameron, archivist for Parnell Heritage pointed out in the comments below that Stephen Gillingham is a likely suspect behind the brick store. He was operating as a brickmaker at Mechanic's Bay from c.1857 (Jury List) until only around 1860, when he was just described as a dealer.  Looks like he went on to be one of the churchwarders for St Barnabas' School at Parnell by 1861, and was selling up good, uncluding a machine for making drain pipes, by mid 1862. By December, his "valuable property on Parnell Hill," a seven-room cottage, and "extensive brick shed" were up for sale due to the mortgage. His lease was up for sale, along with the contents of the brick shed, earlier the following year. So -- the long white structure is Stephen Gillingham's brick shed, c.1857-1863. Cheers, Carolyn!

Media Timespanner

Okay, for any of my readers out there who missed the last identifiable photo of yours truly, namely regarding the old Rosebank Road toilets in Avondale .... I'm online again, via this article from out of the Aucklander. This year has been weird; my name went up on a wall in Pt Chevalier, I think I've been photographed for the the Aucklander twice (there was also the Avondale Train Station thing), once for the Western Leader, quoted three times in the Aucklander (the reserves signage thing), and filmed up on Mt Owairaka in January for My House My Castle. Not to mention around 14 talks and presentations, up as far as Orewa, and out east as far as Howick. No. 15 is coming up next month.

No wonder I feel tired right now ...

Domain Waters 2: Trout tales

 Image from Wikipedia.

From "The Waipapa Stream" by Richard Simpson:

[The Auckland Acclimatisation Society] was founded in the Auckland Domain in 1861 with the intention of introducing a variety of fish, bird, animal and plant species into NZ. In 1867 fish breeding ponds were built on the Domain bank of the Waipapa Stream. Acclimatisation society established New Zealand's first trout hatchery beside the Waipapa. Both the brown trout and the rainbow trout were introduced here. 

Following on from the first in this series on Richard's history of the Waipapa Stream, this is another bit I felt I needed to check out.

First: where was the hatchery?

After a bit of looking, this plan (SO 3933, 1890) "Plan of the Auckland Domain, Surveyed for the Auckland City Council by G H A Purchas" provides the answer. Up above the Waipapa Stream, yes. Associating them with the stream due to proximity wouldn't be entirely incorrect.

Aerial view, 1940, Auckland Council website.

But then comes the claim of this being New Zealand's first trout hatchery, from 1867. History doesn't agree.

The Salmon and Trout Act was passed in 1867, leading to a rush among acclimatisation societies to take advantage of the new regulations. The race, however, was between Otago and Canterbury societies, with Nelson not too far behind initially --  but not Auckland. We lagged behind, eventually succeeding with a set-up in 1870.

The hatching-ponds, for the ova of salmon, trout, and other fish that may be obtainable, erected under the superintendence of F. Huddleston, Esq., Secretary of the Acclimatisation Society, in the rear of the Government Buildings, are now complete, and appear as if they would answer well, the only matter of doubt being whether, from the shallowness of the ponds, the water contained in them will not be too warm. At present the supply of water is but scanty, being drawn from Campbell's mill-lead, and the object of laying it on was simply to test the working of the ponds. As soon as the water-works' main is laid down, the supply of water may be increased to any extent, and as it will come direct in pipes from a gorge where, even in summer, the temperature is little influenced by the season, the temperature of the water in the ponds may always be kept low, so that we hope they will be found to answer. It is too late this season to obtain ova from Tasmania, but we shall be fully prepared to make the experiment next year, of introducing these valuable fish into the rivers of our province.

Nelson Examiner and New Zealand Chronicle, 5 October 1867

The recent attempt to introduce trout to Otago and Canterbury, by bringing ova from Tasmania, has not been very successful, the result being only three live trout in the ponds in Christchurch. The time at which the experiment was made was too late in the season, and the ova, by being taken first to Melbourne, received a good deal of knocking about, which was increased by a bad passage from the latter port. Another year, the success we hope will be greater.

Nelson Examiner and New Zealand Chronicle, 5 November 1867

This led to the controversy over which won, Otago or Canterbury. From Exotic Intruders by Joan Druett, 1983:

Mr Johnson, the curator of the Canterbury Acclimatisation Society from 1864 to 1875, claimed to have introduced many of the freshwater fish species in New Zealand. Unfortunately he and Mr Farr, the Secretary of the Society from 1870, did not get on very well at all, which has helped to make the records of that time somewhat unreliable.

The story of the first three brown trout in New Zealand—the survivors of the 800 brown trout ova sent from Tasmania in 1867, which were so dramatically flooded out and then a pair recaptured—has accordingly been claimed by some authorities to be untrue.

George Ferris, in his book Fly Fishing in New Zealand reports that the 1868 Otago consignment, brought in by Mr Clifford, was the first successful introduction of brown trout. The number of ova in Mr Clifford's shipment was also 800, a circumstance that makes it even more difficult to find out the true facts. At any rate, it can safely be assumed that brown trout were definitely acclimatised in New Zealand waters from 1868.

Auckland had a lot of fits and starts on its way to having a working trout hatchery. The following come from newspaper reports of the society's meetings.

The committee appointed to make arrangements for the introduction of trout ova having failed to discharge its functions, owing to unforeseen circumstances, the Council in order that the season might not be entirely lost, resolved that an attempt should be made to introduce young fish from Tasmania, and by the kind aid of Mr. J. W. Graves, of Hobart Town, this desirable object is likely to be accomplished, a supply of young trout being daily expected to arrive.

Southern Cross 10 March 1870

But, later that year, things must have finally gone right.

Next to the introduction of rooks must be noticed the hatching of trout ova in the Society's fish-house. About one thousand ova were presented to the Society by the Salmon Commissioners of Tasmania, and placed on board the Bella Mary in charge of Captain Copping, who kindly volunteered to take all necessary steps to ensure its safe transit. Owing however to the voyage of the Bella Mary having been unusually protracted, the supply of ice ran short, and the ova was only preserved by the incessant attention of the ship's officers, who were instructed by Captain Copping to have fresh water poured over the boxes at short intervals, both day and night. On arriving at the gardens the ova was at once unpacked by Mr. Earle, and placed in the hatching boxes, when it was found to have suffered considerably from the deficiency of ice, the ultimate result being that only about 60 healthy young trout were produced. These have been deposited in Edgcombe's creek, with the view of keeping them in a place where a future supply can readily be obtained for spawning purposes. The result of this attempt has conclusively proved that ova in good condition can be readily hatched and distributed with facility without greatly increasing the means already at the disposal of the Council. It is therefore determined to repeat the experiment, and, if possible, to obtain a supply of ova from the Canterbury Acclimatisation Society, so as to lessen the risk incurred by the longer transit from Tasmania.

Southern Cross 9 March 1871

The hatcheries at the Domain were constructed later that year.

The Secretary reported that a small pond had been constructed in the Domain, and the trout placed therein, and so far as could be known they were doing well. The water was of diminutive supply the stream above the pond had fairly dried up. Mr. Butler, of Mangonui, had declined to take the trout ordered for him.

Southern Cross 10 January 1872

The Secretary read an estimate of accounts for the ensuing year … £15 for removal of the fish-house to a new site, and construction of a basin for the young fish £30 for purchase of trout ova and the expenses contingent thereon …

Auckland Star 2 December 1873

But -- the location for the hatchery had one major flaw -- not enough water, and what was there became far too hot in the summer. The fish stocks suffered.

TROUT RAISING IN AUCKLAND

In a paragraph in yesterdays issue it was stated that one by one the large English trout in the Domain fish ponds had died off for want of sufficient water. It appears that the usual supply from the Domain springs has decreased during the present dry weather until it is quite inadequate to the requirements of the splendid trout reared by Mr Cliffe, the Acclimatisation Society's curator. The result has been most disastrous. After great trouble and patient perseverance trout had been reared up to maturity, and then, owing to the limited water supply getting too hot, they have one after another died off until all are lost.

Auckland Star 25 March 1887

Fish.—The Council regret to state that the anticipations made in the last report respecting the bleeding of the three varieties of trout kept in the Society's ponds have not been realised. With regard to the English brown trout, the unusually hot weather experienced during the summer and autumn of the previous season proved fatal to the whole of the mature fish. No doubt this would not have occurred had the ponds been situated by the side of a suitable stream, so that an ample supply of cool water could have been turned through during the hot weather. It has been a great and serious drawback to the fish breeding operations of the Society that no such stream exists near Auckland, and that circumstances have thus compelled the use of a locality so unsuitable as the Auckland Domain, where the water supply is limited and liable to have its temperature greatly raised during summer months. A connection has now been made with the city water supply, but the supply is limited to what will pass through a 1½ -inch pipe. The City Council have kindly promised to make no charge for this. The rainbow trout kept in excellent health during the whole season, being apparently unaffected by the heat that destroyed the brown trout. The females supplied large numbers of ova, and had a supply of milt been available, probably 50,000 or 60,000 eggs would have been obtained; but for some unexplained reason the males though healthy did not supply this, and the results have consequently been barren. As the ponds have now been enlarged, the fish will have more room, and it is to be hoped that better success will attend the operations of the Society during the coming season. The American-bred trout, though healthy, have shown no signs of breeding.

Auckland Star 10 April 1888

Bolding mine. I'd say, from that report, that being anywhere near the Waipapa Stream in those days wasn't exactly an advantage. This reinforces what I mentioned previously when posting about the so-called first water supply for Auckland from the Domain.

"During all the period in which water was diverted from the Domain to the city, it was only ever an auxiliary source – and always just as prone to drying up in the summer as any of the city’s wells."

Map from Auckland Council GIS website

It's likely that the fish ponds had only the supply running off from out of the springs heading into the Waipapa to count on. Not nearly enough as a water source when the sun beat down.

Still, Auckland did have a success with rainbow trout. From Exotic Intruders:

The rainbow trout is the most sought-after trout in the world, because of its fighting qualities and its beautiful chromium-like sheen. It was first introduced into New Zealand waters in 1883, by the Auckland Acclimatisation Society, and quite by accident. The Auckland Society was firmly convinced that it had brought out ova of brook trout, but from the 32 000 eggs, 5 000 young rainbow made their appearance. The Society had purchased the ova from a Mr La Motte, who operated a fish hatchery in California; he had taken them from Sonoma Creek and shipped them to San Francisco, where they were transferred to a ship heading for New Zealand. The Auckland Society kept on referring to the fish as 'brook trout' until 1886, when they admitted that they had unwittingly imported some rainbows. Mr Cheeseman stated in 1915, 'I believe that the whole of the wild stock of rainbow trout in New Zealand has been derived from the Auckland Society's introductions.'

By 1888, the society had things fairly well sussed.

Mr Cheeseman also announced the successful hatching of the rainbow trout ova, about 4,000 or 5,000 young fish having been obtained.

Auckland Star 5 September 1888

But, there was still that problem about the Domain water.

A discussion took place as to the advisability of finding another site than the Domain for the fish ponds, the supply of water being insufficient, and the temperature of the water being too high for the health of the fish. The secretary was desired to ascertain what could be done in the Waitakerei district to establish a breeding-place for fish.

Auckland Star 2 April 1890

The Society did seem to manage under the circumstances ...

At the commencement of the year there were in the Domain ponds about 3,000 healthy young rainbow trout, and 2,000 English brown trout.

Auckland Star 9 March 1892

But, by 1894, it appears it was all over, as far as the story of the Domain fish ponds was concerned.

The report referred to the removal of the Society's fish hatchery from the Auckland Domain to the Waimakariri, near Oxford, and to the work which had been done there in the construction of fish-ponds, etc. Trout fishing in the Waihou, Waimakariri and Oraki streams had been excellent during the past season, and the fish caught were of excellent quality.

Auckland Star 22 March 1894

So, yes, you can say the fish ponds at the Domain were associated with the Waipapa Stream due to their position -- but if there are any aquifer properties to the Domain's water system, once again, it failed under test. Auckland can take the prize for (accidentally) hatching rainbow trout -- but we weren't the first in the brown trout business. That award belongs to the Mainlanders.

Update 22 August 2012: Part 2, a description of the hatchery from the 1930s, here.

Domain Waters 1: an unfortunate brewery

 

I attended Richard Simpson's talk during Heritage Festival on the story of the Waipapa Stream (illustrated above, the x marks weaving around the line of railway), the eastern-most of the waterways associated with the story of Auckland's Domain, and the one that defines most of the eastern boundary. There were a few things during the talk which had me taking notes for further investigation, and this (the Hobson's Bridge Flax "Mill" / Brewery) is one of them.

The map above was created with my usual non hi-tech methods: the underlying map comes from the Auckland Council GIS website, and I've used blue x marks to roughly plot out the line of water flow. In the earliest days, they all came together in a swampy, most likely tidally-influenced, area at Mechanic's Bay.

The above detail comes from Roll 61, LINZ records, dating from the late 1840s, when folks still entertained the idea that the New Zealand Company would come and make Auckland immigrant-rich, and so Mechanic's Bay was renamed Somes' Bay. Just in case. Didn't happen, of course.

Anyway ...

In the course of plotting the history of the Waipapa Stream, Richard has produced maps using the Kinder Map from c.1856 as an underlay -- and then brought in a straight lined from where John Kinder marked the end of the Waipapa up to Park Road, to take in the Hobson's Bridge Brewery as part of his presentations on the stream. There's a sample in his presentation available here. Flick forward to the bit on the brewery/flax mill.

Here's a detail from the Kinder Map:

The squiggly line between the words "Smith" and "GOVERNMENT" is the Waipapa. The straight line above it, angling right, is the Domain boundary, the artificially-straight property lines for the homes of Kempthorne through to Runciman. As I said at Richard's talk -- I've yet to see a stream artificially straightened in 1850s Auckland. I'd say what Kinder was trying to achieve was to outline the boundary (at that stage) of the Domain. He fairly well succeeded -- but he wasn't illustrating a link between the Waipapa and the brewery site.

Hobson's Bridge itself was a bridge where the Epsom Road in those days (today, that kink in the Epsom Road, now Broadway, has been eliminated, and the vestige is called Davis Crescent) crossed a stream which flowed down as part of the Hobson Bay catchment.  Whatever water the operators of the flax mill and brewery enjoyed from 1847-c.1874 was most likely part of that catchment, coming down from Observatory Hill in the Domain, the present-day site of the Auckland War Memorial Museum. The landscape around the brewery illustrated by John Kinder below demonstrates this.

Old Flax Mill and Village of Newmarket, 1858, from the Carlton Road. "Painting by John Kinder, looking over Newmarket from Carlton Gore Road with Mount Hobson, (centre), Remuera Road, (right to centre background), with Little Rangitoto, (left) and Mount St John, (right)", ref. 4-1213, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries.

Now, perhaps it could be said that the Waipapa shares a common aquifer source with the Hobson Bay catchment. However, it really is down to lines on a map, where streams are daylit on the surface.

Detail from "Map of the Harbour of Waitemata, New Zealand, and of the adjacent country shewing the situation of Auckland, the capital of the colony, and also the isthmus which separates the waters of the Firth of Thames on the eastern from those of Manukao on the western coast from actual measurement with the chain and from a trigonometrical survey, Felton Mathew, survr. genl., 1841," ref NZ Map 6601, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries

This above detail from Felton Mathew's 1841 survey map of Auckland further illustrates the division between the Mechanic's Bay and the Hobson Bay watershed. Hobson's Bridge Brewery was part of the latter, not the former.

There is also the impact users have on the streams. The Hobson's Bridge brewery was a potentially high-impact polluter for the Hobson Bay catchment ...

… if you take a walk over Hobson's Bridge sometimes you would find such a nasty, sickening stench, arising from the fluid that flows from the brewery above, as would make you soon conclude that the residents in that locality have to put tip with what must be very detrimental to their bodily health …

Southern Cross, 26 December 1865 (Letter by John Graham of Newton)

... and wasn't even Auckland's first brewery, as the Waipapa presentation stated. Among the earliest brewers was William Smithson, who advertised in the New Zealander of 27 February 1847 that he was relocating his existing brewery at Freeman's Bay to Wyndham Street. This then predates the Hobson's Bridge brewery by around three or four years.

So ... to the story of the flax mill and the brewery, and their failures.



Matthew Whytlaw turned up with dreams and ideas in Auckland around 1842-1843, by his account. (Wellington Independent, publishing notes from Whytlaw's 1861 pamphlet, 10 December 1861). In July 1843, he left Auckland for the Bay of Islands and entered into a merchant business with John Whytlaw and William Jeffrey. Jeffrey left the partnership in September that year. Matthew Whytlaw returned to Auckland in January 1844, touting his manganese mine near Whangarei.

We are happy to hear that this mineral has been found in abundance at Wangari. The Thomas Lord is about to load with peroxide of manganese for Sydney, to be shipped for England on account of Mathew Whylaw, Esq., the proprietor of the mine, who is himself about proceeding to England in the Bangalore. Mr. Whylaw is much interested in the welfare of this colony. He has, resided here for the last seven or eight months, and has had the opportunity of making himself intimately acquainted with the varied resources of our country, which we doubt not he will use every effort in representing fairly at home. We expect much from Mr. Whytlaw's exertions in England. His own well-known character will be sufficient guarantee for the accuracy of his statements; and, after his experience in this country, we may safely trust him to speak of New Zealand to our friends at home. 

 Nelson Examiner and New Zealand Chronicle, 23 March 1844

By April 1847, he was one of the leading lights behind the campaign to erect the first Presbyterian Church in Auckland.

Flax seems to have started being interwove with his story by the end of 1847. He sought to purchase flax in bulk from Maori landowners, and chemically treat it to make it ready for export -- but his idea never seemed to quite come up to expectation. He entered into a partnership of sorts with William Brown and John Logan Campbell of the firm Brown & Campbell -- and here is where the Hobson's Bridge property comes into it.

In June 1845, surveyor Thomas Florence purchased Allotment 27 of Section 3, Auckland Suburbs, from the Crown, and two years later sold first one part, then another (1850) to William Brown. Whytlaw leased the land, built his factory (not so much a mill, as he was using his chemical process rather than a milling process) by mid 1849, and set-to with things. By November 1850, Whytlaw had left to try out his luck in the Waikato district (he had a better time of it there), and Brown & Campbell leased the site to R Clark, who converted Whytlaw's factory into a brewery.

Southern Cross 12 November 1850

Matthew Whytlaw eventually ended up over in New South Wales, dying in July 1879 and buried at old Balmain Cemetery. He and thousands of other burials are now lying in unmarked gravesites beneath a memorial park.

As for the brewery -- well, ups and downs. Mainly downs.

Clark was operating a soap and candle factory beside the brewery, which can't have been too good for the drainage into Hobson Bay at the time. By June 1855, Brown & Campbell were advertising that the brewery was up for lease -- or for sale (no one seemed to take up that latter offer, probably to the partners' chagrin). William Brown transferred the problem to Campbell in late 1855, and so Campbell was the one who had to deal with, as William Brown put it in a letter to Campbell in 1862 (according to Dinah Holman in her book Newmarket Lost and Found, 2001), "this unfortunate concern" which had "broken down again."

Everything was up for sale by the end of 1861. Robert Whitson & Co took over in 1862, but partnerships fractured over the course of the years, Lyell Brothers taking over from June 1872. By December 1874, though, Campbell was subdividing the site. Land sales there went on to the 1890s and beyond.

Today, the brewery site is primarily commercial buildings. I came across the Mangahao Relic along George Street (used to be Park Road) near there in June last year. The straight line supposedly linking the brewery site to the Waipapa Stream is Titoki Street, just below the museum. Haven't noticed an interpretive sign there, yet.

Update 4 October 2011: Reference should be made here to the fact that Campbell tried once again to make a go of things with a brewery in this location, between 1880 and 1901. His Domain Brewery (no connection to the earlier brewery by the same name) later became Whittombe and Stevenson's jam and pickle factory, then a biscuit factory. Campbell in his second attempt sunk deep artesian wells to try to access the water source enjoyed by Seccombe from off Mt Eden. The brewery didn't long succeed the amalgamation of Campbell's business with that of Louis Ehrenfried.

Another blog: Cast in Stone

Another heritage around blog called Cast in Stone by Big Dog Talking of Dunedin. Great to see some more NZ history amongst the blogs!

Gentlemen's residences on Albert Park

A short time ago, I was contacted by an arts student named Ayesha who said she had an interest in an old fountain on Princes Street, and wondered if I had any information on it. I hadn't, and I agreed to meet her in the city to start the hunt for the story.

The site of the fountain in question is that of a block of old residences on Princes Street known as the Merchant Houses. There were once four here, built on land leased at first from the Auckland City Improvement Commissioners in the mid 1870s, and then from Auckland City Council. Behind them sprawls Albert Park, former site of the Albert Barracks -- and the Auckland Drill Hall, about which I have previously posted.

Actually, to my surprise (looking at a conservation plan for Albert Park, available at Auckland Council Archives) -- the site of the fountain is on part of the original Drill Hall site. In the overlay below (based on 1940 aerial from Auckland Council's website): yellow marks the approximate line of the barracks wall, green is the line of the Military Road, now erased, red marks the approximate spot for the Drill Hall from 1867, and the blue arrow points to the site of the fountain. Yes, you can see a house there, because there once was a house there. More below.

Princes Street south from Waterloo Quadrant was constructed in 1874, part of Contract No. 4. Around halfway through the following year, the drill hall was removed from the barracks site and set up by Rutland Street.

TENDERS required for (labour only) for a Villa in Princes-street. Plans, &c to be seen at my house in Queen-street, up to Wednesday next —J. Smith, Draper.

Auckland Star 26 January 1876

From January 1876, the villas were built. Architects may have included James Wrigley and Edward Mahoney, but the advertisements didn't specify who commissioned the professionals. But it looks like John Smith kicked things off with his brick villa, now known as "Pembridge" at No. 31 Princes Street. He wasn't there very long.

 In our obituary column this evening will be found recorded the death of Mr John Smith, which happaned at his residence, Princes-street, this morning. The deceased gentleman has been in rather bad health for some time past, and the cause of death was bronchitis and inflammation of the lungs. His decease was of a somewhat sudden nature, as he has been seen about town during the last few days. 

Mr Smith was one of the best known amongst local tradesmen, and his connection with this city dates back for a long period. He was an early Australian colonist, and was present at the great fight at Ballarat concerning miners' rights, being then connected with the detective force. Arriving in Dunedin from Australia, he commenced business as cafe proprietor. He subsequently came to Auckland, and opened a small drapery establishment in Grey-street. Successful speculation at the opening of the Thames goldfields enabled him to accumulate considerable wealth, with the assistance of which he extended his business. Soon afterwards he proceeded on a visit to the Old Country, and on his return to Auckland re-commenced business in the handsome shop which he had built next to the United Service Hotel. Mr Smith was an enthusiastic sportsman, and owned a stud of horses, including Tim Whiffler, Maid of Honour, Trafalgar, Lady, Xanthippe, and Toi. The funeral of deceased is announced to take place on Thursday at three o'clock.

 Auckland Star  15 August 1882

From 1884, Dr. John H Honeyman occupied the house, according to Nola Easdale's book Five Gentlemen's Residences  (1980). He began practising in Auckland in mid 1879 as a physician and surgeon, hailing originally from Edinburgh. He left for Sydney in 1890, served in hospitals in England, then returned in 1891. In 1892, along with Mr John Hay, Honeyman purchased and donated to the city the former site of old St Paul's Cathedral, at the northern end of Princes Street.

A cable was received to-day by Mr Wilfred Bruce, announcing the death of Dr. Honeyman at London, on Saturday last. Dr. Honeyman who was formerly in practice in Auckland had been in England for the past two years, and had remained there for the benefit of his health. Dr. Honeyman leaves a wife and two children, two girls, aged about 14 and 8 respectively. Mrs Honeyman is a daughter of the Rev. David Bruce, formerly of Auckland, and at present in Sydney, and a sister of Mr Wilfred Bruce, to whom the news of Dr. Honeyman's death was sent.

Dr. Honeyman came to Auckland in 1864, being then a little over 20 years of age, and immediately went down to Whangarei, where he stayed with his uncle, Mr John Hay. Shortly afterwards returned to Auckland and entered into the employ of Mr David Graham, as a draper, and subsequently joined Mr John Hay in business in Queen-street as drapers, under the title of Hay and Honeyman. The firm was very successful, and during the mining boom in the Caledonian days were fortunate in adding to their wealth, both parties ultimately retiring from business on competencies.

Mr Honeyman then resolved to go to Edinburgh and study for a doctor, no mean attempt for a man already over thirty years of age. He qualified at Edinborough University and subsequently St. Andrew's University conferred on him the degree of M.D. Dr. Honeyman then returned to Auckland where he practised successfully until his uncle, Mr Berry, of Sydney, died and left a large fortune. He then went to Sydney, and upon returning to Auckland commenced to settle up his affairs, as he did not intend to reside here. Just when all had been completed, he was seized with a paralytic stroke in the shop of Mr Graves Aicken, Queen-street. Dr. Honeyman after four months went to England in order to receive the advice of the best medical authorities. While residing in Auckland Dr. Honeyman married the eldest daughter of the Rev. D. Bruce and leaves two girls and a widow to mourn their loss. 

Auckland Star 21 May 1895

Arthur Hyam Nathan followed after Dr. Honeyman from 1896. His Nathan Building forms part of today's Britomart Precinct.

No. 29 was, according to Nola Easdale, built in 1877-1878, for George and Elizabeth Johnstone. George was a brewer, owner of the Albert Brewery.

Messrs Hesketh and Richmond, under instructions from Mr Johnstone, have addressed a letter to the Improvement Commissioners warning them against allowing the circus to erect their canvas on the Albert Park. We understand, however, that the Commissioners have resolved to disregard the protest and issue a permit for the use of the ground, on condition that the circus proprietors shall give a donation of twenty pounds to be expended in trees for the improvement of the park. It is possible that the powers of the Commissioners in the matter may be tried by an application for mandamus to the Supreme Court, which will be the means of raising a more important issue—the right by which a large portion of the public Park has been fenced off, subdivided, and applied to private purposes. 

Auckland Star 11 April 1878

Albert Park.—A letter was received from Mr George Johnstone, stating that his occupancy on the Albert Park Reserve was wholly verbal and "on the word of a gentleman—a then Commissioner." The Council were at perfect liberty to repudiate it if the members deemed fit.

Auckland Star 10 December 1880

William Reynolds Vines took over the lease in 1882, according to Nola Easdale, then it became a boarding house from 1884 run by Mrs Spiers. A Dr. Schwarzbach, "for eye, ear and throat diseases" consulted patients from there in 1885. By 1886, Mrs Spiers had moved to another boarding house, Fernleigh in Symonds Street.

It was around this time that Moss Davis took over the lease for two of the three lots, the other retained by Mr Vines. The Davis family called the house Hamurana.

Drawing by Kerrie Cleverdon of 27 Princes Street (later 25A Princes Street) for Five Gentlemen's Residences by Nola Easdale (1980). By kind permission of Auckland Council Archives.

Then, we have No. 27 Princes Street, later known as 25A. It was similar in design to No. 29 -- but lost the distinctive verandah by at least 1977, when a photo included in Nola Easdale's book was taken. Today, it no longer graces the Princes street frontage.

The initial similarity is probably because George Johnstone of No. 29 owned both sections at one point, before he transferred his lease for No. 27 to fellow brewer Thomas Whitson.

Deep regret was expressed in town to-day when it became ktiown that Mr Thomas Whitson, son of Mr Robert Whitson, brewcr, of this city, had been taken from among us by death. For the past year or more he had been ailing from some lung complaint, and Dr. Stockwcll was in constant attendance. Finding that deceased was not improving, Dr. Stockwell suggested a change of air, and hence a voyage to San Francisco was decided upon. The trip had the effect of rendering a great improvement in his complaint apparent, but he never quite recovered from the sea-sickness experienced on the home voyage, and since the time when he returned to Auckland (about three months ago), fears were entertained for his recovery. For the past fortnight, he was almost entirely confined to his bed, and carefully attended by Dr. Stockwcll, but the affliction finally assumed a most serious aspect, aud at a quarter past seven o'clock this morning he bade his final adieu to his friends and relations who were congregated at his bedside, offering consolation and hoping to the last that he might recover. 

Mr Whitson was an old and respected settler, having been in the colony and in business with his father for the past 23 years. He was 37 years of age, and leaves a wife and four young children, who will undoubtedly experience a great cap in their family circle. The primary cause of death is not positively known, but Dr. Stockwell is of opiniou that it is some lung disease, probably consumption.

Auckland Star 8 January 1881

The house appears to have been associated with medical men through to at least the 1940s. Dr Charles Henry Haines had the lease from 1883, according to Nola Easdale. Wises Directory for 1905 says a Thomas Copeland Savage resided there. Another surgeon, Kenneth MacKenzie, was there in the late 1920s. From the 1940s, though, it seems to have become a boarding house.

Come the 1970s, and the end of the original 99-year leases, under the Aucklans Improvement Trust Act 1971 Auckland City Council made plans not to renew the leases, and demolish all five of the merchant's houses. Then with a change of mind, a "Conservation Area A" was established in 1974. Conservation Area A designations were also considered for other groups of houses of particular interest, such as those on Renall Street.

But ... by October 1976, the house at No. 27, now 25A, was under threat. Already shifted on its section once, in 1934, now it seemed to be in the way. Out of line with the other four houses, blocking views to the brick stables at the rear, erected by Dr. Haines so it is believed, and now being redeveloped, the University Club next door adding its own objections to the house at 25A remaining -- despite all the best efforts of the Civic Trust, there was really no hope. Nola Easdale's book ended up being No. 25A's epitaph. It was demolished in the late 1970s.

What is there on the site (this would have been where the north-eastern section of the old drill hall was sited) is the brick fountain.

It is looking a bit the worse for wear. It may have been installed as part of the redevelpment of the stables by Fletcher Construction around 1986, part of a $150,000 transformation which created the Frank Sargesan Centre and George Fraser Gallery from out of the old brick stable.

The main protest and demand for No. 25A's demolition came from the University Club which, in the 1970s, had leased this house right next door, No. 23-25. From what I can see on the current University of Auckland website, that club isn't there any longer. It's now a language school.

Albert Dornwell, butcher, slaughterhouse owner and kicker of men, was the first to enter into a lease with the Improvement Commissioners back in 1877 -- but he didn't build. That was left to Henry Brett, finally getting around to it (a semi-detached) from 1882, according to Nola Easdale's book. As Sir Henry Brett, he ended up in encyclopedias, including the 1902 Cyclopedia. He sub-leased to various peopke, including Moss Davis (see above). By 1896, this had become a boarding house, "Ellesmere". By 1900, sharebroker and Levi Strauss jeans agent William Rainger lived there.

Auckland Star 27 February 1897

By 1915, one of the units was occupied by William Joseph Ralph, a mine owner, while the other was inhabited by Lt Cecil Percival Gavegan. It appears that around 1911, Lt. Gavegan was serving on the HMCS Iris, a cable-laying and maintenance ship for the Trans Pacific Cable. By 1939, surgeon Kennth MacKenzie and optician F F Lowes had taken up residence.

And finally, the fifth of the group (now fourth since the late 1970s): No. 21 Princes Street, a similar base design to those at No. 25A and 29. This was built c.1878 for James Cragg Sharland, chemist and wholesaler. His business career was discussed here, regarding the later (well after his death) poisoned jam roll case.

By 1892, this had also become a boarding house, the "Sonoma", named for another "Sonoma" in Eden Street run by the same lady, Mrs William Cruickshank.  For a time, "Sonoma" was where a Dr. Eliza Foster McDonagh Frikart plied her trade.

 

Auckland Star 27 November 1893

Dr. Frikart arrived in Wellington around May 1893, claiming medical qualifications from Ireland and Zurich. She had a mail-order medical service, according to Sandra Coney in her book Standing in the Sunshine (1993), dealing with women's health issues, some of a (for Victorian era eyes and sensibilities) delicate nature.

Nelson Evening Mail 8 December 1893

The Victorian Medical Association, where Dr. Frikart had registered, as well as in Tasmania, complained about her to the Irish College of Physicians. Her licence from them was revoked, and she was therefore struck off the British Medical Register, her Zurich qualifications not recognised in England. According to Sandra Coney, Dr Frikart was not allowed to answer for her conduct by personal appearance before their board.

Her Zurich qualification was recognised in New Zealand, if not in England -- but she seems to have left the country by the later 1890s.

Mrs Anna Arbuckle was running the boarding house at No 31 Princes Street by 1905. By 1915, George Wilson Moorehouse operated the boarding house, and in 1926 Mrs Emma G Ford was in charge.

So -- that's a brief look at the Merchant Houses of this part of Princes Street. Was it wrong to demolish No. 25A? Perhaps -- but the open green space on the site is a nice break in the urban landscape. One request, though: an interpretive sign recognising the site of the original drill hall (and the Albert Barracks site in general) would be great. There's certainly the space for something like that ...

Port Bowen: the wreck worth her weight in gold

The ship Port Bowen aground, Wanganui, 22 July 1939. Shows the tugs  Terawhiti (far right), and Kahanui (foreground). Unidentified lighters  are taking off the cargo. The two other boats are  unidentified. Evening  Post (newspaper) photograph. Photographer unidentified. Reference 1/4-048929-G, Alexander Turnbull Library

My friend Tony Goodwin happened to mention to me last week that a wreck called the Port Bowen in 1939 had been salvaged, with parts of her re-used during World War II for munitions and armoured vehicles. Intrigued, I took a look.

On 15 July 1939, the steel twin-screw steamer Port Bowen, built in Belfast in 1916 and operated by the Commonwealth and Dominion Line Ltd (Port Line from 1937),  became stranded just off Castlecliffe near Wanganui. The master was later blamed for the stranding in the inquiry, but didn't lose his certificate, the error of judgement felt to be from lack of local knowledge rather than a culpable act. All attempts to tow the vessel off failed, and she was abandoned as a total loss. The area near Castlecliffe had a bit of a creputation already, before the Port Bowen incident. Another ship, the Cyrena had stranded near the same spot in May 1925 -- also a total loss.

In the Cyrena's case, though, she was broken up by the sea and the winds. The Port Bowen had a different fate.

The tugs Terawhiti (at stern of liner), Tola, and Kahanui (right) trying to pull the Port Bowen off the beach at Wanganui at high tide yesterday afternoon. Alongside the stranded liner are the lighters being used to transfer her cargo to the shore.

Somewhere between 40,000 to 50,000 frozen meat carcases were successfully unloaded from her hold, apparently undamaged, and ready to be conveyed to storage ashore. A valuable consignment of wool salvaged from her, however, was reloaded onto another ship, the Doric Star -- which sank on 2 December 1939, after being struck by gunfire from the Admiral Graf Spee. 

While the Port Bowen was adrift close to the shore, she became a local tourist attraction, providing a mini-boom for Wanganui's economy as visitors travelled up from Wellington to gaze at the sight.

The stranded Port Bowen after breaking her anchorage and drifting nearer the shore. Evening Post 26 July 1939.

The NZ Government began salvaginge of the wreck itself from 1940, the work undertaken by William Cable & Co of Wellington.

 Interest in the Port Bowen wreck at the Castlecliff beach at Wanganui has been revived now that the vessel is to be broken up for scrap metal which will be used for war purposes. William Cable and Co., Ltd., of Wellington, are undertaking the job, preparations for which have already begun. The Public Works Department is to build a gangway to facilitate the passage of workmen to and from the vessel at any tide. A jetty for the use of the motor-lorries and a landing stage will also be built by the Department. Already a certain amount of material has been deposited on the beach preparatory to this work being put in hand.

Evening Post 3 July 1940

Consider the stranding of the overseas steamer Port Bowen at Wanganui. The abandoned ship was given to the Government for munition and other war purposes. It represents a windfall for the State. The wreck today is a scene of great activity. Great quantities of timber, steel, nonferrous metals, refrigerating gear, winches, and ship's equipment are being recovered. Nearly all these commodities are in short supply, and they constitute an invaluable acquisition to the country's stock of raw materials. The cool storage plant is of the first importance, and Mr. Sullivan, with the aid of his co-opted members, is arranging for the refrigeration plant to be taken from the ship and installed in suitable premises. Apart from fulfilling a serious need in the matter of refrigeration space, it has saved the Government many thousands of pounds in the provision of new machinery which would have to be imported from overseas. Many of the ship's instruments and much of its gear have been assigned to the Navy Department, timber has been taken over by the Public Works Department, and the great quantities of copper pipe, tubing, and such materials will be used in the making of munitions.

 Evening Post 10 August 1940

Above images: Evening Post 21 September 1940

Some of her refrigerating equipment went to the then-new military camp at Waiouru. Her steel went toward the making of the New Zealand version of the Beaverette armoured car.

Auckland Weekly News, 24 June 1942, ref AWNS-19420624-20-1, Sir George Grey Special Collections, Auckland Libraries

A policeman guarding the wreck during the salvage operations, Neils Godley French Berntsen was drowned in February 1941.

The body of a police constable guarding the wreck of the Port Bowen on the' beach at Castlecliff was found at high-water mark this morning. The deceased, Constable N. L. Berntsen, was 25 years of age, married, with two children. Apparently he had been fishing off the vessel and at high water on Saturday night his line had fouled. He had decided to go out at low water at 2 o'clock this morning. Evidently he got into difficulties. He was a permanent policeman doing duty at the wreck, taking over his watch when the men dismantling the vessel ceased work each day.

Evening Post 10 February 1941

Steel from the Port Bowen went into the making of huge 80 ton shields built at Temuka used in driving tunnels during the construction of the Tekapo hydro-electric development.

The block-making plant was under construction, and all materials had been received and a start was being made on the construction of the shields at Temuka. The shields, each of which would weigh eighty tons, would be made from steel salvaged from the Port Bowen, which grounded near Wanganui. Describing the part to be played by the shields, Mr. Beck explained that each shield would be pushed forward by hydraulic pressure like a biscuit cutter and the tunnel lining would be erected inside the shields. It was a novel method for New Zealand.

Evening Post 22 February 1941

Three thousand tons of first-class material—steel, iron, and machinery -- was salvaged from the Port Bowen which was stranded at Castlecliff, near Wanganui, said Mr. C. A. Barrell (Government, Hamilton) when he was speaking in the Financial debate yesterday. This material had been distributed in many directions and had helped to repair ships and to construct others.

Mr. Barrell said that amongst the salvaged machinery were 22 winches, which had been taken over by the Navy for the equipment of minesweepers, and other plant had also been transferred to the Navy, including many thousands of feet of copper piping. Much of the material, including the winches, was unprocurable in New Zealand and was worth some thousands of pounds. Much of the steel was in first-class condition.

Hundreds of tons of the material had been used in repairing ships that had come to New Zealand in a damaged condition, and hundreds of tons of plates and other material were still in stock.

 Evening Post 31 July 1941

The 8267-ton steamer Port Bowen, which went ashore at Castlecliff Beach, Wanganui, over three years ago, has been gradually taken to pieces and now presents a dilapidated appearance, states a Wanganui correspondent. Dismantling work is still being carried, out. So far plating and ribbing has been removed to the level of the lowest of the three original decks. The main work at present is in the bow area, which is firmly embedded in the sand. This part of the steamer has been used as an anchor for the larger half when it broke away 18 months ago. There are only a few men employed now, but when dismantling operations began over 100 men were engaged. The only machines left in the Port Bowen are small pumps used to keep water put of the main hold, but so far it has not been possible to remove the propeller shafts from their tubes. They may have to be cut out on account of being bent. The last machinery taken out of the steamer is now being reconditioned, having been under water for almost three years. 

Machinery from the Port Bowen has been put to many uses. Some has gone to freezing works, some to meat dehydration work, some to hospitals, and some to mine-sweepers. One generator was large enough to supply the full electric power needs of the Wanganui Public Hospital. If it had not been for the war it is doubtful whether any steps would have been taken to recover the material in the vessel on account of the expense involved. Because of the shortage of material and the fact that many fittings removed are almost unprocurable elsewhere, the vessel has become almost "worth her weight in gold." 

 Evening Post 5 January 1943

Shed 33 fire, King's Wharf, Wellington. Evening Post 22 February 1943

When a shed at King's Wharf in Wellington was gutted in February 1943, timbers for beams from the Port Bowen were used to rebuild it. This is where the newspaper reports appear to end for the tale of the recycled Port Bowen.