The Motor Car Changes Avondale: Part 1

From the earliest days of European settlement of the Whau District, the horse was the primary mode of transport if you didn't want to use your own feet and walk. Deliveries came by horse and cart, the buses were pulled by horses taking you into the City, horse and rider made their way along the rutted roads and tracks toward parties, gatherings, and church services. Blacksmiths and horse-feed sellers reigned supreme, and stables were just as much landmarks as the local pub.

In the 20th century, all this changed.

In 1903, the first motor cars appeared in Auckland. It was another decade before they started taking over from the horse as the main form of transport for both commercial and private use, but from 1915 the trend was growing.

Where in 1912, the Station Store and Bluck's Buildings had been built to take advantage of foot traffic from the Railway Station just across the road -- by the end of World War I, the pattern had changed. With the coming of the motor car, Great North Road became the new centre of Avondale.

By 1919 Avondale businessman Ernest Goodman was up with the play as far as the motor car was concerned.
“Avondale to the Beaches by Motor – E Goodman wishes to notify the public of Avondale that he is prepared to convey parties to Blockhouse Bay, Point Chevalier etc. by motor at times to suit customers. Fares as per arrangement. A trip will run daily from Avondale to Mt Albert at 10.0 a.m. Fare 6d, leaving Thode’s corner.” [Advertisement, The News, 29/3/19]

From then on, Mr Goodman’s taxis became part of the Avondale landscape.

The motor car was starting to change the way Avondale people did business by this time. There was the Avondale Motor Delivery Service.
“Notice is hereby given that a quick Motor Delivery Service between Avondale and Auckland will be started from about April 7th, when necessary trips will be made twice daily. Passenger traffic to bays, picnics etc. will also be catered for, accommodation being provided for 15 passengers. Norman Thomas, Great North Rd, Avondale.” [Advertisement, The News, 29/3/19]

Mr Goodman was not the only one in town with the idea of ferrying people in the new-fangled innovation. A Mr McCarthy of Station Road (now Blockhouse Bay Road, near Walsall St) initially had a fish selling business (he owned his own boat) but then branched out into the funeral conveyancing business, and as a charabanc driver.

“During the 1920s a number of commercial garages were established in the district…. Stewart’s, Trigg’s, In St Jude’s Street was Bamford’s Avondale Service Station. A 1926 Automobile Association guide stated that: ‘This garage is situated below the railway crossing on the hill above Avondale on the road to Mt Albert. Watch out for trains.’” [Challenge of the Whau, p. 74]

One of the early garages belonged to J Blomley.
“J Blomley – Motor & General Engineer – Bring your cars, motor cycles, or other mechanical work to the above, where you will receive every attention, good workmanship and prompt delivery at rock bottom prices. All work guaranteed. Workshop & garages, adjoining Wm. Pendlebury’s, Draper, Great North Road, Avondale.” [Advertisement, The News, 28/8/15]

Wherever the motor car went, you needed the people to fix them.
“Machinery owners and users of motor cars have often felt the want of a local engineering establishment when necessity has arisen for repairs. It is therefore pleasing to record that Messrs. P J Cooper & Sons will in a few days open those premises adjoining the new Masonic Hall, Rosebank road, Avondale (just below Messrs. Thode Bros’ store) as a general engineering shop. We have every confidence in soliciting work for the new firm as we know Mr Cooper has had an extended experience in all branches of engineering, including motors, mill machinery, suction gas plants and steam, gas and oil engines. Repairs to agricultural and milking machinery will also be a speciality with the new firm.” [The News, 28/8/19]

This was at 79 Rosebank Road. Unfortunately, the optimism in the above piece didn’t keep the business going beyond the middle of the 1920s, with the rise of Triggs Garage and Stuarts, both on the main road

The site between the intersection and the Masonic Hall would be vacant until Forsyth’s Coal Yard in the 1930s.

Rough rutted roads were hard enough going for the horse and cart. For the motor car they used up precious benzine and petrol. Mrs Shaw, telling me of her memories of the days of the rough road through the centre of Avondale, said that the early cars had headlights on "stalks" which bobbed up and down as the cars negotiated the rough track from Avondale down the hill to the Whau Creek bridge -- which was, itself, then only a one-lane bridge.

In 1925, came the next big change for Avondale's transport history.

“There was a great deal of development during 1925. At a meeting in Auckland on February 28th, it was approved by all the town boards involved, that they would build a concrete road over the often impassable clay road from Oakley Creek at Point Chevalier, all the way to the end of the Henderson Township. Each Town Board's ratepayers bore the cost for their own section of the new highway.” [Henderson’s Mill, Anthony Flude, 1977]

“Work on the construction of the first section of the concrete highway at Oakley Creek to Lincoln Road, Henderson, is to be commenced on Monday, when the paving gangs will start operations in the Avondale district. The point of commencement will be at Blake St Avondale, and the paving will be pushed on as far as the Whau Creek bridge, after which the section from Blake St to Oakley Creek will be undertaken.

Form of construction will be a complete departure from anything yet done in New Zealand. The flanges of the roadway would be arched, the edges being thicker than the centre of the roadway, thus giving more strength at the point where the greatest weight of traffic is supported. The system is based on recent tests carried out in Illinois.”

Work began March 2, 1925. New Lynn section started approx. June 1, Glen Eden September 1, Henderson, December 1. [NZ Herald, 28/2/25]

“The excavation of the bed for the concrete highway from Avondale to Henderson commenced at the beginning of the month, and a start to be made on laying the concrete in about 10 days. A new concrete-mixer is to be employed on the job. [NZ Herald, 20/3/25]

By the end of 1925, motor cars could travel smoothly from Henderson through to Pt Chevalier, and Auckland's suburbs, such as Avondale, began to grow in earnest.

Clement Partridge of the Wai-Whau-Whau

Here’s a name which keeps cropping up from time to time in early land documents relating to Avondale: Clement Partridge. He was the original Crown Grantee (1845) for Allotment 5 on Rosebank, the farm later split between Robert Chisholm (purchased 1858) and Enoch Althorpe. He turns up as the owner of Allotment 65, the future “Stoneleigh” and Methuen Hamlet, from 1852 until he sold the property to Josiah Buttress. On the Jury list for 1857, he’s a farmer at “Wai-Whau-Whau”. Now, given the mid-Victorian habit to be vague as anything when it came to descriptions and placenames (after all, they knew what they were talking about, so the future historian’s needs wasn’t an issue), this may have been in reference to his Manukau/Blockhouse Bay Road farm. Or, he may have had land somewhere near the “Wai-Whau-Whau Creek” somewhere along the Great North Road in West Auckland. (Update 24 May 2009: As it happens, according to Vivian Burgess from West Auckland Historical Society, Wai-Whau-Whau is part of Swanson. Partridge definitely had land up there, although he didn't have close associations with the area.)

By 1860, at any rate, he was in Sale Street, Freemans Bay, still a farmer but about to have his career in colonial Auckland take a more interesting turn from simply being a farmer/land speculator.

James Busby has been well documented in many works, best known as a British Resident appointed in 1832, landing in 1833, quarreling with Lieutenant T. McDonnell, R.N. over the sale of spirits (McDonnell was an additional appointed Resident) and being replaced by Lt. Governor William Hobson in 1839. His story did not end there, however. For the next 30 years, he disputed land claims with the Crown, claiming 10,000 acres at the Bay of Islands (he received title to just over a fifth of that amount), and 90,000 acres at Whangarei and Ngunguru. He carried his grievances into a political career with the Auckland Provincial Council from 1853-1863, denounced Governor George Grey as a person who “did not know the truth,” and made it his crusade to defend the rights of other land claimants.

In 1861, he became editor of the Aucklander, and used that as a means of putting his protest across to the reading public. He employed Clement Partridge as sub-editor, in charge of advertisements – but this may not have been a wise move. Two court cases are on record where Partridge handled advertising accounts rather badly. One, with auctioneer Stannus Jones in 1863, for unpaid advertising, arose because Partridge failed to stop the advertisements after Jones’ staff made all attempts to tell him to. 1863 was when Busby left the editorship of the Aucklander, perhaps understandably so, and it reverted to being a weekly.

Busby was still connected with the Aucklander in 1866, however, as Partridge sought to get advertising money from James Copland of the Waitemata Hotel (Copland had for a brief time also been a publican at the Whau Hotel previously). This time, it was down to what we would call these days “false invoicing” – Partridge charging Copland for advertisements he never ordered. Once again, Partridge lost the case. By now, Partridge was in financial trouble. Perhaps he’d personally invested in the Aucklander? Whatever he did, he put his 8-roomed house on Wellington Street up for sale in July 1866 (no takers), was taken to court in September for the dishonouring of a promissory note he endorsed, and had his house sold from under him by order of the registrar of the Supreme Court in September 1867. Despite all this, and in the middle of his own financial woes, he still backed Busby to the hilt, organizing petitions to support Busby’s land claims. He was declared bankrupt in October 1867, and died on 30 April 1869 aged 62, after what was described as a long and painful illness, and buried on 2 May.

As for Busby, he was awarded hefty compensation in June 1868 (Partridge must have felt satisfied during his last illness to hear that), but still had to fight the Auckland Provincial Superintendent over the payout until he finally received most of it in 1870 -- £23,000, after forking out £14,000 in legal costs.

Journeying to England the following year for an eye operation, Busby caught a chill and died there on 15 July.

Clement Partridge’s brief obituary in the Southern Cross of 3 May 1869 reads:

“Mr. Clement Partridge, who died on Friday last, was interred yesterday. The deceased was a very old settler, and was well known to the public from his former connection with the press; and also the author of two works which have been published in Auckland, one of which, a theological essay [Essays on Theology and Metaphysics, printed by W. Atkin] was written during his last illness, and has only recently been issued.”

Update: 7 February 2009 -- another link on James Busby, this time from the Australian Dictionary of Biography, providing much of the backstory from across the Tasman.

Terminus Part 3: Mattson's Flat

Update from here.

Terminus Part 3

Terminus: the lives of those at the mouth of Oakley Creek

Something that has been in the works since around 2001, when I realised that instead of passively collecting information about Avondale and Waterview's history, I could actively research same -- is Terminus. The momentum for Terminus really kicked in when the Avondale-Waterview Historical Society was formed, and I was able to share my views and ideas with others, see what they thought, and adapt the theories when new facts came to light. From this came other projects, like spin-offs: my collection of history of the Auckland Asylum (multiple folders spanning the period from 1850s to 1990s. I am not sure what will be done with that store of knowledge just yet); the Dr Aickin story; and Wairaka's Waters.

I've decided to publish the text of Terminus via Scribd, just to get it out there. Links to the first two parts follow, and I'll have the last two parts sorted shortly for uploading.

Terminus Part 1

Terminus Part 2

Update here.

Story of Victoria Hall, Rosebank

Above, a gathering of the Victoria Hall community at "Meliora", the Jackson home in Avondale Road.

I've just uploaded to Scribd the Story of Victoria Hall in Rosebank. This was founded by Quakers Thomas and Elizabeth Jackson, but was right from the beginning a community-based, cross-denominational place of worship. Now known as the Rosebank Peninsula Church and part of the Avondale Union Parish of Presbyterians and Methodists.

Story of Victoria Hall

Get your own at Scribd or explore others: History

Footprints of Manukau

Looking up information for my Papatoetoe photos post, I found the Footprints of Manukau, a collection of old photos of the Manukau area. Worth a look at the way things were in a formerly rural part of Auckland.

Papatoetoe scenery

Last year, I went with a friend to Papatoetoe to the South Auckland Rock Club show at the Papatoetoe Town Hall. This year (today) we went back, but this time I decided to take the camera.

Top is a mosaic near the local Citizens Advice Bureau office -- strong graphics and a cool heritage balance (train, Town Hall, and a toi toi for Papatoetoe.

Middle, the old Papatoetoe Railway Station, now serving a new purpose, thanks to the Papatoetoe Railway Station Preservation Trust.


Bottom, the Town Hall itself, now a hall for hire by Manukau City Council. In the days before the 1989 local authority amalgamations, this was a focus for public meetings, like this one for the Red Cross in 1962.

The Whau Canal proposal, early 1883

(From Weekly News, 17 February 1883)

Of late the project of cutting the Whau Canal, and thus giving water communication between the Manukau and the Waitemata harbours has come into prominence through the correspondence columns of the Press. Could ready access between the two harbours be thus given to the coastal, intercolonial, and foreign shipping, it would be a matter of the highest importance. The tramway of canal reserve, as marked on the plan of the Whau district for many years past, starts from the western side of Green or Fisherman’s Bay on the Manukau Shore, where there is five fathoms of water, skirts the foot of the Titirangi ranges, and thence down the Whau valley, passing to the eastward of Whau North township, and thence to the head of the Whau Creek. Capt. Drury, of H.M.S. Pandora, twenty-five years ago, estimated the cost of the work at a million sterling. That involved a cutting of a third of a mile through the hill, where the Manukau blockhouse is situate, and which rises over 800 feet above the sea level. This is the only serious engineering difficulty on the route; but this line necessitates following the course of the Whau creek (the detour of which lengthens the line by two miles), or cutting a fresh channel across the bends.

Settlers in the Whau district who are thoroughly conversant with the proposed canal line have recently pointed out that there existed another route, which might prove cheaper, and has at least the merit of being much shorter and direct, the distance from deep water on the Manukau side, at Green Bay, to deep water on the Waitemata side, at a point opposite Kauri Point, being only four miles. In the new line also it is proposed to cut the hill on which the Manukau block-house stands, and which seems to be composed of soft sandstone, but instead of skirting the Titirangi range, to go straight down the Whau valley, passing eastward of the Whau North township, and through the Rosebank estate to the sea, where a channel would have to be dredged out for a mile from the present foreshore, when the deep water channel which passes Kauri Point would be reached. On the Manukau side the excavations would enable Green Bay to be reclaimed very easily, giving to the Whau South township a considerable area of flat land conveniently situated to the deep water frontage; and on the Waitemata side similar reclamations could be made of several hundred acres of the shallow reaches on either side of the proposed dredged out channel. We understand that the Whau (Avondale) Highway Board are so impressed with the future importance of the Waitemata foreshore of their district that they are desirous of having it conveyed to them as an endowment.

It is stated that no difficulty would arise in getting the necessary concession of land from the owners of the various properties through which the proposed new canal line would go, as the work, when executed, would increase the value of property adjacent. Some people are of opinion that the scheme is premature, but at least there can be no harm in discussing it from every point of view. What was the dream of yesterday is not infrequently in this go-ahead age the fact of to-day and history to-morrow. When the Panama Canal has been completed, and its effect upon New Zealand and Australian commerce fully ascertained, no doubt the leading engineers will look round to see in what other direction the route between England and Australasia can be shortened, and then the saving to vessels of the 500 miles caused by the detour round the North Cape will become a matter for serious consideration.

There is one matter to which the attention of the Government has been directed, and it is one which it will have to face sooner or later – the opening up of the Whau (Avondale) Manukau-road connecting the former township with the Government township laid out at South Whau. There are two works on the route laid out which are quite beyond the limited means of the District Highway Board – a bridge over the gully at the south-east corner of Mr. John Buchanan’s property, and the other a bridge over Stoney Creek. The cost of these works is estimated at £400, and it is stated by resident settlers well qualified to pronounce an opinion on the subject, the Government would be duly recouped the expenditure by the increased value given to the sections in the South Whau township, and to Government land adjacent. These works done, the Board feels itself able to undertake the duty of forming the rest of the road, and making it available for wheeled traffic. Owing to the gully being unbridged, a detour of about a mile and a half has to be made with vehicles, which could and ought to be avoided, as the surveyed line is a straight and direct one.

Several attempts have been made to get the Government to take the matter in hand, on the very lowest ground, that of self-interest, but the stereotyped reply, “That there are no funds available for the purpose,” has hitherto prevented any practical steps being taken. Were these South Whau township lands, 574 acres in area, and those of North Whau township, 72 acres in extent, in private hands, the matter would not require five minutes consideration, as the landowner would be well aware that these proposed improvements, while of necessity benefiting the district, would at the same time double the value of his property. The South Whau township is admirably situated, in having deep water frontage to the Manukau harbour, the importance of which will be appreciated more and more as our commerce with the South increases, and the importance of saving a tide becomes a matter of consideration with the interprovincial steamers. Already the Highway District Board, seeing the possibilities of the future, have applied to the Government to set aside a portion of the township as a pleasure and recreation reserve, and the Government have recognised the propriety of such a request. In the days to come it will assuredly be a centre of population from its excellent geographical position, and it is well to take time by the forelock.

At present South Whau looks, as many of our now thriving townships have done, an expanse of fern. The blockhouse, a relic of the Waikato war of 1863, stands in ruins on the crest of the hill (with its loop-holed embrasures and half filled trenches), dominating the country for miles round, and at the time of our visit the other day, only the haunt of nomadic gumdiggers, who prowl over the adjacent Crown lands for gum. Nothing of a warlike character now remains to remind one of the dark days of civil war, but the bottles (empty) of “Three Dagger” and “Battle axe” strewn in the trenches. Down on the margin of the pretty little bay at the foot of the cliff (Green or Fisherman’s Bay), coming into vogue now as a popular resort of picnic parties, lives the “oldest inhabitant” of the locality, a Belge, rejoicing in the cosmopolitan name of Smith. Formerly he had a mate, who died somewhat suddenly of some complaint, but Smith still clings in solitary loneliness to the old Robinson Crusoe life, in the little cove, two formidable mastiffs who have “a deal of openness when they smile,” doing duty for the man Friday. Here, fishing and gumdigging, the old man wiles away his remaining years. If his assets are few, his wants are fewer. The bursting up of a bank has no terrors for him, as it never upsets his balance. Some day civilisation and progress will get into the charming little bay, and Smith, the representative of Arcadian simplicity, will be requested to “move on.”

The Canal That Was Never Dug

(Left) Sketch drawn in 1907 for the "Waitemata-Manukau Canal Promotion Company", showing a coastal steamer passing through the biggest cut, 130 feet deep, between Karaka Bay and the Whau estuary. From NZ Herald, 24 January 1956.

(Updated 20 December 2018. A book The Canal Promoter is due to be published in 2019.)

For the better part of 60 years, from the mid 19th century to the dawn of the 20th, Auckland men of influence seriously considered the benefits and practicality of a canal linking the Waitemata and Manukau Harbours. As the New Zealand Herald in 1956, more than a century after the first musings on the scheme put it, this was “The Canal That Was Never Dug.”

There were two main routes through the isthmus in contention from the 1850s -- the Tamaki option, via a canal reserve dedicated as such in 1850 out of the Fairburn Claim, and the Whau option, first surveyed in 1857 along a route from New Lynn just north of the Whau Bridge to Blockhouse Bay (Endeavour Street). Most of this failed to be properly dedicated, and so much of the route was sold to private owners and vanished from the maps.

In 1901, a new route was proposed to link the Whau River with the Manukau Harbout, via straightening and channelising of the Avondale Stream, with an outlet now at Green Bay. The distance between the tides of the Waitemata and Manukau Harbours by this route was estimated (in 1903) as being only a mile and a half, making the steaming distance from Green Bay to Queen St only 12 miles, while from Manukau Heads it was 25 miles.

“If the canal were made it would be a most pleasant ending to the sea journey to Auckland, via the West Coast, for the Whau River is very pretty in parts, and when it is utilised as a canal there would probably arise a demand for residential sites.” (NZ Herald, 1903).

By the early 20th century, whereas businessmen wanted to cut down the cost of carting grain and agricultural products from the Waikato in the previous century, it was now a need for the raw products of industrialisation that drove interested financiers and businessmen to form their committees and seek the easiest route from the south to Auckland. By 1903, they wanted better transport for King Coal, both from the Waikato (Huntly fields alongside the Waikato River) and from the West Coast.

 The “only serious engineering difficulty on the route” involved “a cutting of a third of a mile through the hill, where Manukau blockhouse is situated, and which rises over 400 feet above sea level.” (NZ Herald, 17/2/1883). In 1869, Auckland businessmen were still pressing for the scheme, trying to persuade shipping companies to bring ships direct to Onehunga from Melbourne.

In 1883 the Auckland Weekly News reported a suggestion that instead of following the Whau, the route could be moved east to go through the Avondale flats, perhaps joining the Waitemata near the end of Eastdale Road. Another Weekly News article can be found here. In the 1890s, John Edward Taylor from Mangere began his own campaign, in support of the Tamaki option.

In his presidential address to the Chamber of Commerce in 1900, Samuel Vaile “deplored the Government’s apathy about the canal. ‘It is difficult to understand why this important work has been so long neglected,’ he said. ‘Certain it is that if it were made it would bring in a large increase of trade to our port and city.” (NZ Herald 24/1/1956, on the centenary of the Chamber of Commerce)

The New Zealand Herald of 16/7/1903 reported that “The committee and subscribers to the Waitemata-Manukau Canal scheme, together with a large number of gentlemen interested, made a visit of inspection yesterday along the route of the proposed canal, which is intended to link the Manukau and Waitemata harbours, and materially shorten the sea distance between Auckland and the West Coast ports.

"The party were taken by the launch Ruru to the mouth of the Whau River and beyond to Archibald’s brickworks, where Mr Archibald came on board, kindly piloting the steamer to Keane’s brickworks. Here a landing was effected. It had been arranged to get up as far as the Whau River bridge, but the tide was falling when the steamer reached Keane’s. Brakes were in waiting at the bridge, and the party were driven as far as Astley’s tannery, where most of them alighted, proceeding on foot over the selected route to the highest point along it. Here Mr Atkinson, who was in charge of the party, pointed out the principal engineering difficulties and the cutting which would have to be made.

"The party then descended through Mr W. H. Smith’s property at Karaka Bay, where it is proposed to make the Manukau entrance to the canal. After a brief inspection of the geological features of the bay and some further explanations by Mr Atkinson, and also be Mr Hamer, who appeared to be thoroughly convinced of the practicability of the scheme, the party rejoined the brakes and returned to town.” This was one of a number of visits made by supporters of the Waitemata and Manukau Canal Promotion Company's scheme to survey, plan, and eventually construct a canal on the Whau route. In the next few years three shafts and a large number of exploratory bores were sunk in the New Lynn-Avondale district, but nothing more was done, primarily because the company had no finance to construct the canal itself. The company wound up in 1907. That year Auckland Harbour Board engineer W H Hamer produced a set of plans for the Promotion Company and estimated the cost of the work at £788,000.

In 1912 David B Russell proposed a canal scheme that included a number of locks and pumping stations together with some deepening of the river and its approaches. He suggested that dredgings could be used to create an artificial island on which could be built playing fields and a multi-storeyed hotel. The total cost of the project was eventually estimated at over £2,000,000. The Russell scheme failed as well; the Tamaki option was preferred by a Royal Commission in the early 1920s, Russell's promises of American finance for the project never eventuated, and he was unsuccessful in obtaining a concession from either the Harbour Board or the Government which would have included taking private land under the Public Works Act and allowing his company to have a 50 year monopoly.

When the Main Trunk Railway was opened in 1908, and when roads improved in the roads improved in the 1920s and the 1930s the canal proposal lost its previous status as a high priority public works project. The last known suggestion to build canals in the Auckland Region, including at the Whau, was in 1982, when Auckland City Council’s resources and organisation committee agreed to reopen discussion “on the construction of five canals linking the Waitemata, Manukau and Kaipara harbours, and the Waikato River.” (NZ Herald, 10/12/1982)

Then, it was suggested, the renewed canals proposal would provide an alternative to a roading-based transport system (long since the successor to rail, and the cause of many headaches for local politicians in the region). This idea was probably sparked off by the “Think Big” development projects of the Sir Robert Muldoon government era of the 1970s to early 1980s. A Mr L J Johnstone even went so far as to prepare a 23-page report on the scheme, which did not come to pass.

The 1908 Auckland and Manukau Canal Act, last regulatory vestige of Auckland's canal dreams which gave the Auckland Harbour Board the power to take land under the Public Works Act for canal construction, was repealed in 2010.

The 1903 party from the Waitemata-Manukau Canal Promotion Scheme, alighting from the steamer at Keane's Brickworks, during the 1903 inspection of the proposed canal route. From the New Zealand Graphic, 25 July 1903.

The Rosebank Bakehouse

R & M Kirkpatrick's bread cart, c.1903-1905. Photo courtesy of the Kirkpatrick family.

At what is now 69 Rosebank Road a Mr Grubb became the first baker on the Rosebank Rd/Great North Rd (northwest) corner. His shop included an area for the stabling of horses, which is now the present-day site of the former Masonic Hall. Before this, the area, part of the larger Chisholm Estate, was just farmland.

The father of Mr Grubb who started the Rosebank Bakehouse came to New Zealand in the 1860s, and set up a bakery in Karangahape Road. Unfortunately, during the Depression of the 1880s -1890s, he went bankrupt.

His son was a baker in the Northern Ireland Constabulary when he emigrated with his sister to New Zealand, following their father. Later, in Avondale, once he had married, he started the bakery.

Mr Keith Grubb, his grandson, told me how his grandfather would drink quite a bit, and would frequent the Avondale Hotel all too often and for far too long as far as his wife was concerned. Once, when losing her patience with her husband, she took a stock whip and went into the Hotel, clearing everyone out in her anger. However, Mr Grubb had seen her coming from across the fields, and was well out of the way. The licensee at the time, possibly Mr J R Stych, banned Mrs Grubb from ever coming in and clearing out his hotel again.

John Bollard, during his time as the local MP for Eden, would often come into the bakehouse to talk to Mr Grubb – and would just as often walk out onto the street with flour all over his back from being heartily patted across the shoulders by Mr Grubb.

By 1 April 1903, Mr Robert Samuel Kirkpatrick had bought Grubb’s land and bakery on the north-western corner of Rosebank/Great North Road, and ran Kirkpatrick’s Bakery there until early 1905.

Robert Samuel Kirkpatrick (1866-1948) was the son of Duncan Kirkpatrick (arrived 1860 from County Antrim, Ireland) and Jane McCaughan, whom he married in Napier. “Sam” Kirkpatrick married Magdalene Webster Grubb of the Avondale baker’s family in 1890, so in 1903 he was essentially carrying on the family business. (The Kirkpatricks and the Grubbs had been cousin families before this).

One of their sons, Robert Webster Kirkpatrick, (1890-1937) went on to co-found, with the Stevens family, Kirkpatrick & Stevens of Newmarket, and one of his sons in turn, Robert Noel Kirkpatrick, was a Newmarket Borough Councillor in the early 1970s. His daughter is Noeline Raffills, current Auckland City Councillor for Avondale-Roskill Ward.

Mr Grubb senior continued to work for his son-in-law until his death on the railway line, crushed between two carriages he was passing between without realising they were being shunted. According to Mr Keith Grubb, his grandson, his grandfather’s dog (to which he gave a double whiskey and milk each morning) ran yelping from the scene and fetched Mrs Grubb. He died "after a long illness", according to his death notice in the Auckland Star, in 1916, and is buried in Waikumete Cemetery.

By 1910, Daniel Robertson had a general store on the bakery site, running his combined bakery-groceries-coal business until around the end of World War I, when the Thode Brothers took over. Ernest Bright ran a bakery business close by, until a fire in the early 1920s burned the entire block out.

Fearon's Building stand there today.

13/3/2009: Post updated and corrected here.

Avondale Salvation Army Corps

The Salvation Army Hall on Great North Road, just beside the primary school, was opened on 27 February 1928. This was just a few weeks after the first officers were appointed to Avondale (12/1/28). The property ledger of the time records that the section in Great North Road was bought as early as 15 September 1915. The erection of the building in late 1927 was delayed “owing to the difficulty of securing building contract by reason of this suburb having recently been taken over by the City Council, and existing by laws being at some variance [Salvation Army Property Board minutes].

“The block of land was purchased in 1915 with the idea that Avondale would be a likely place for a corps opening within the next 10 years. The land is excellently situated – right in the centre of what is considered to be a fine suburb.” The Corps decided in 1924 to start preparations to build the hall – the architects were Gray, Young & Norton, built by the Property Department of the Salvation Army. [Property Records, Salvation Army Archives].

The completed building cost £1,483 , 5d. On 3 April 1966, a new frontage on the hall was opened. The hall was sold and officially closed on 11 December 1976, when the corps was transferred to Delta Ave, New Lynn. [Above from e-mail to author, written by Major Alan Robb, Territorial Archivist, The Salvation Army, Wellington, 2/4/01]

The old building was torn down, and a Tingeys store put in its place. Avondale lost yet another place for community gathering. These days, it's a Civic Video outlet.

History of the Avondale Salvation Army Corps

Get your own at Scribd or explore others: History

Publish Post

Avondale Primary School in the 20th century

In 1914, the Avondale Infant School was completed, known in my day as the Primers Block. According to local people I've spoken to, the builder was a local man by the name of Mr Vibert, who the Roads Board the next year asked if he would put in a proposal for the new board offices (he declined).

In 1922, the school achieved its greatest expansion with the opening of the Manual Training School, which were two buildings close to the Great North Road, where woodwork, cooking and sewing were taught for Standards 5 and 6. The Avondale Manual Training School was opened on the Primary School grounds fronting Great North road on 27 April. A tender from Mt T Wilson for erecting the school of £3585 was accepted by the Supervisor Mr Kalaugher in early 1921. [Avondale Roads Board minutes, 1921, 1922]

In so many remembrances and oral histories from past and present residents of Avondale, the name of Mr Burgess comes up time and again. He was the woodwork teacher at the Manual Training School (which also had cooking classes). Mr Bob Browne recalls Mr Burgess clearly saying, almost as a catchphrase: “Put the tools down, you sawny yob!”

(From unpublished memoirs by Mr H. H. Harrison, courtesy of Mr Ernie Croft, concerning school
in the 1920s, and escpecially the Proficiency Exam): "... a government set exam that if passed gave us entrance to a secondary school. With a class of over forty pupils we set off with that in mind and a teacher who was determined that everyone should achieve a pass. A pupile teacher, Miss McFarlane, helped with the marking of our work for part of the time.

"Each day we were tested in ten words, I think, set to be learned at home. Anyone with two or more mistakes was caned. That was often my fate to be caned, not because I hadn't tried to learn the words at home, my mother saw to it that I did, but I always have difficulty with spelling. Every day we had ten mental arithmetic sums -- pencils up, pencils down -- limited time to answer. Writing sample was always on the board each morning written there before school -- (Mr Slevin) arrived at eight -- as was the weekly arithmetic test each Friday morning.

"Reading daily out of the Government supplied School Journal. Everyone watched the page and had to be ready to go on at any moment, while one stood and read. So the day went on. Most of us accepted all this as normal, cane and all, and bore our teacher no grudge even if we did not particularly enjoy it. We had a realization that it was necessary if we were to get the exam. After school you could go home if all your work was up to date, that is to say if every spelling error was written out three times; every badly formed sentence in the weekly essay rewritten in better form, with spelling mistakes also written out three times and taken to teacher for his approval and signature. All work was kept on a file at our desk. At 4 p.m. we went home.

"During the last term those weak in English grammar were invited to come at 8 a.m. and receive extra tuition and we, the weaker ones, did attend. As a result of this effort the supervising inspector at the exam in our schoolroom was able to announce that everyone except one passed and the one received a competancy certificate."

When the Avondale Intermediate opened in 1945, Avondale Primary lost the training school, and “decapitated”, becoming a Contributing School, which it is today. [Ron Oates, Avondale Primary School, 1870-1990, 1990]

The front building of the Training School (there were two, one behind the other, on the left-hand side of the Great North Road frontage) became the Assembly Hall in 1963, after being strengthened to satisfy concerns over building safety. Unfortunately, it was declared an earthquake risk in 1979 by the Education Board, and demolished in 1981.

A sign in 1969 that read “Assembley Hall” [sic] was corrected by the then Headmaster. [Ron Oates, Avondale Primary School, 1870-1990, 1990]

I have my own memories of that old Assembly Hall. When I went to Avondale Primary from 1968 to 1974, the old Hall was used as a place for school performances (a stage, with changing rooms below, was at the western end), and to show films. I still remember the clatter of the old-style film reels going through the projector, and especially when they ran the films backwards to rewind them! There were few things funnier then, it seemed, than people and cartoon animations running backwards, jumping back onto diving boards, and all the rest.

Beside, as a separate side room, was the lunch kitchen, where parents (including my mother) volunteered on roster to come in, make up sandwiches, and fill out the lunch orders which would come in every morning from the classes on little forms of white paper – whether you wanted marmite sandwiches, or a meat pie (my favourite was apple pies).

Then, in the early 1970s, the old school was demolished. All that remained for a time were, as mentioned, the assembly hall, and also the dental clinic and reading therapy rooms at the top -- but even they are gone now.

But, the school remains. Where the greatest achievement for my generation would have been learning the times tables and keeping our clothes clean by home time, these days Avondale Primary School teaches the children all about computers and the world of the future.

Learning in the Whau

For years, there has been uncertainty as to exactly when the first school in the Whau district (now Avondale and surrounding districts, including Henderson) opened and operated. Unfortunately, Presbyterian records for our area lodged with Presbyterian Archives in Dunedin don’t go back further than the 1880s, as with Avondale school committee records. The school also had no uninterrupted financial support from the provincial government, later the Crown, until 1864. At the moment, I’m compiling a study of the early Whau schools, from what records are at hand and available, but our earliest school did start 148 years ago.

The Whau Presbyterian Church, completed in time for Easter services in April 1860, was always intended to serve both as a church and as a school. Under education regulations at the time, the community were entitled to apply for Provincial Council funding to run a day school, if a certain number of teaching hours were given to secular education, by a certified teacher. This, apparently, the local community succeeded in achieving, as they are noted as applying for Government aid that year. According to later reports, the school had only 10 children — and that may have been the reason it ceased being funded by the Council for a period, until 1864, and indeed shut completely until sometime after June 1861. In those days, the subsidy paid only part of the teacher’s salary. The rest had to come from school fees, often a shilling a day per pupil. If children didn’t attend, or families couldn't afford the shilling, the school had no money.

Enter John Bollard, newly-married in May 1861 and settling in Avondale with his wife by July that year on land he leased from William Innes Taylor. He may have chatted with his neighbour in the Rosebank area Dr. Thomas Aickin about the fact that the school had shut down. Together, they made efforts to resurrect the school, and probably formed their own informal school committee — perhaps just two members — by July 1861. (Bollard was later awarded in 1911 for serving 50 straight years on the district’s school committee, hence how we know when the committee began.) By 1863, they may have been joined by merchant John Buchanan. They were definitely joined by Rev. Andrew Anderson by early 1864, who went on to be the first Presbyterian minister based at Avondale from 1865. The school committee sent in applications for funding to the Provincial Council in 1864, and by the following year had a fully funded school once again, based at the Presbyterian Church. By now, the district was developing rapidly, with settlement and farms increasing further west, talk of a proposed canal, the Pollen brickyard on Rosebank from around 1860 and the Gittos tannery from 1864. It all looked quite promising as far as progress for settlers in the Whau was concerned.

In 1867 another committee set-to and fundraised for the construction of a public hall. The hall, built just across the road from the Presbyterian Church and opened on 14 November 1867, came with a trust deed which expressly stated that it was intended for literary, scientific and educational purposes. The school moved there in 1868. The School Committee were not charged any rent for use of the hall, and the school was the major user, but whenever important community meetings or elections cropped up, the school from 1868-1882 would have to shut down for days — and find, on returning, their equipment and furniture damaged in some instances. The hall, the school committee complained to the Education Board, was cold and draughty, with both children and teachers often falling ill. Yet, the Hall Committee claimed they hadn’t enough funds to repair the hall, and said that grants offered by the Education Board weren’t enough.

With the Common Schools Act in 1868, the new Whau Educational District from 1869 became one of the first in the Auckland Province, and first on the Isthmus, to strike a separate special rate for educational purposes. The school committee may have utilised the now-departed Rev. Anderson’s house built at the corner of Layard and Cracroft (Crayford) Streets as a residence for the school’s head teacher from 1869. The education board purchased his land after a mortgage default in 1875, which was much of what is now the present site of Avondale Primary School. Henry Hasall’s land alongside was purchased in January 1882. Education Board architect Henry Allright designed the first purpose-built schoolhouse for the district erected there, which opened in May 1882.

Along the way, there have been some interesting characters associated with those early days of the first Whau schools. Archibald H Spicer (1830-1883) was born in Vizagapatama, India, his father a captain of the 12th Regiment, Madras Native Infantry, of the East India Company. He arrived in New Zealand in 1851, and finally settled for a time in the Whau district in the early-to-mid 1860s. His estate here, close to the corner of New North and Blockhouse Bay Roads, was apparently the home of wandering peacocks. Spicer is listed as a teacher of the Whau School in Provincial Council records, after a man named Knox who had a dispute with Rev. Anderson over pay, but Spicer may well have helped Bollard and Aickin earlier than that date.

Another was Samuel Frederick Mayhew. For some reason, the Education Board insisted in 1881 that the teacher Joseph Glenny be replaced by Mayhew. The Whau School Committee were outraged, but were told that what the Education Board said, went. So, it was Mayhew who was the first teacher of the new school in May 1882. Later that year, however, he left Auckland in the wake of scandal and bad debts owed to Queen Street merchants. He popped up in Blenheim, 1886, charged with embezzling funds from the Spring Creek Rifles (he got off the charge, on appeal and a technicality). His wife Alice sued for divorce in 1897, on the grounds that she hadn’t heard from her husband since 1882, he’d committed adultery with women unknown to her, and had been living with another woman as his wife in Sydney.

The Whau School Committee’s misgivings, after all, proved correct.

Archibald Hitchins Spicer: peacocks and school slates

I can't add much more to the story of A. H. Spicer from what has already been published online (unfortunately, the website no longer exists - update April 2018). He was also an early uncertified teacher at the Whau School in the Presbyterian Church before the school regained Provincial Council funding after 1865, and most of his property at Avondale was purchased by Benjamin Gittos under equity of redemption when Spicer nearly defaulted on mortgages.

From the site linked above:

"He purchased a property of about ten acres which he named "Glenlaveroch". It was situated near the corner of Blockhouse Bay and New North Road, which was then dangerously far from any centre of settlement. The house was a fine one for the times, with a hipped roof of corrugated iron. No lead was used on the roof as it was feared (being the time of the Waikato Wars) that the Maori would strip the lead for making bullets.

The property was laid out in gardens, with flower beds, and peacocks walking about. There were household servants. Archie employed a groom to drive him into the office in the "dog-cart". The house was still standing in the 1930's.

Unfortunately Archie's circumstances changed. He lost his position at the Customs Office and became ill. The family returned to live in Auckland. Archie spent his final sixteen years working as a clerk in the Deeds Office. His fine writing can be found in the old ledgers."

NZHPT registration submissions for North Island Main Trunk Line landmarks

I've just had an email from the New Zealand Historic Places Trust, pointing toward a page on their site regarding public submissions regarding items they propose to register. Apart from the chance to comment on whether or not they should register the Ohakune Station, Makatote Viaduct and Mangaturuturu Viaduct, for a limited time, until 13 November, you have a chance to view the .pdfs of their registration reports for these structures online. Some wonderful heritage photos and images in their reports.

Avondale Railway Station: Crayford Street work

For now, until they've completed sorting out stormwater and sewage lines at Crayford Street rail crossing, it's a case of tip-toe gingerly over the temporary tarseal and ballast rocks. Work at Crayford Street is underway, though, you have to admit that. Even the pine trees, probably around 20-30 years old (although they have have been younger, and I just didn't notice) are gone (see Scribd document for after and before shots).

For those of you out there unfamiliar with my favourite suburb, in the distance of the photo to the right is Avondale's racecourse, a favourite recreation spot for over 100 years. Beyond that, the Waitakere Ranges. Hopefully, we still get to keep that view (well, I don't know what's the future of the racecourse, unfortunately) once all the work for the new station is finished.

Amateur Minstrel Performance at the Whau -- 1867

From the Southern Cross, 18 March 1867, written by "A Correspondent".

On Friday last there was some excitement in our usually very quiet village. A number of young men, who have formed a music class here, provided an evening's entertainment for the settlers, for which invitations were issued to the residents generally. A tent was erected near the church, and decorated externally with the national flag. Within the tent, evergreens, peculiar to the colony, were very tastefully arranged, and varied with dahlias and other flowers. The Union Jack formed the background of the platform, while a little in front the neat banner of the Whau Amateur Minstrels was displayed. The tent was brilliantly lighted by three chandeliers.

There were about three hundred ladies and gentlemen assembled, and, amongst them, we observed some of the good citizens of Auckland. Exactly at half-pa«t 7, the amateur minstrels appeared on the platform, in character, and opened with "Negro selections" by the company. The opening chorus, "Happy are we," was well rendered by Mr. Barraclough; "The Old Folks are gone," by Mr. Bell. "Ring, ring the Banjo," was sustained with admirable spirit by Mr. Cooke. "Away to Dixey" was given by Mr. Gittos, whose voice wanted strength and compass for the solo. "Carry me 'long" was given, with very considerable taste, by Mr. Barraclough. "The Whau" was sung by Mr. Holloway; "Ladies, won't you marry?" by Mr. Bell; "The Little Log Hut,"- by Mr. Cooke; and "Negro Quadrilles," by the company, closed the first part.

An interval of ten minutes here ensued, after which the second part was opened with the country dance "Triumph". The song, "Nelly was a Lady" was sung with great pathos by Mr. Barraolough; "Ellen Bayne," by Mr. Bell; "Bob Bidley," by Mr. Bacon. The humorous song of "The Hat and Feather," was well rendered by Mr. Cooke; "Gone are the days," by Mr. Barraclough; " Massa's in the cold ground", Mr. Gittos; "Cornelia Cob," Mr. Holloway. "Not to be sneezed at," was very effectively rendered by Mr. Bell; and " The Hen Convention," by Mr. Barraclough.

The entertainment was terminated by the singing of the National Anthem, in which the audience joined. The choruses were rendered with excellent effect. The following were the instrumentalists:— Violin and conductor, Mr. Barralough; concertinas, Messers Holloway and Walker; banjo, Mr. Bell; tambourine, Mr. Gittos; Broder Bones, Mr. Cooke; triangle, Mr. Bacon. Mr. Henderson supplied the refreshments.

On the whole the entertainment reflected great credit on the taste, liberality, and public spirit of the Whau amateur minstrels, and, at the conclusion, Dr. Aickin called for three cheers for these gentlemen, which was responded to until the welkin rang again.

It was announced, before the departure of the audience, that another entertainment would shortly be given, for admission, to which a charge would be made, for the purpose of contributing toward the erection of a public hall which is much wanted in the district.

Photos of early New Lynn & Green Bay

A few years ago, Mr. H. Batley of New Lynn gave me a disc of images scanned from an old photo book on New Lynn and surrounds. They date from the 1920s or so, judging by the cars, the swimming costumes, and the state of the roads.

More here.

The building of the Avondale Railway Bridge

The image above, taken 5 October this year, is of the present (second) bridge. The original wooden and concrete one was a great place to stop, and watch the trains arrive underneath your feet as they came in from Mt Albert, usually with their exhausts pumping up heaps of dark smoke and heat. They replaced the bridge in 1990.

Notes from the minutes Books of Avondale Road Board, 1911 to 1913 (held at Auckland City Archives).

16 August 1911
Railway Bridge at Avondale Station
The clerk was instructed to write to Mr. Jn Bollard MP referring to previous applications & ask him to see into the matter and advise the Board what steps to take to further obtaining the bridge over the railway.

20 September 1911
Bollard advises work on railway bridge under consideration when finance was available.

1 November 1911
Minister promises to get plans & specs prepared for reinforced concrete bridge at Avondale station.

11 June 1913
The Government to be urged to proceed with work on building the railway bridge.

18 June 1913
District engineer NZ Govt. Railways: department about to proceed with erection of Overhead Bridge at Station & asks for cross section of proposed approaches to be provided by the Board. Increase in width from 30 to 40 feet meant large increase in cost, asked if Board would pay additional sum required.

Resolved that department be informed that as Board provided approaches, could not pay for extra width. Bridge largely for use and convenience of rail passengers. Letter to Bollard asking for help on increased width.

16 July 1913
Work on Railway Bridge (30ft wide) to be started in 3 weeks.

5 November 1913
North pier of overhead Railway Bridge completed, Board’s work on approaches to commence.

22 April 1914
Railway Dept notifies that level crossing rendered unnecessary by Overhead Bridge now fenced across.

Wairaka's Waters

I have a soft spot still for Wairaka's Waters. I was very surprised to see how many people asked for copies -- like A Doctor in the Whau and The Zoo War, Wairaka's Waters is part of my hobby stuff. I seek out the information, find answers to my questions, write it up, then publish.

Wairaka's Waters was my first departure from Avondale-Waterview themed stuff, yet it really was just about what was happening next door, on the Auckland Asylum farm bordering Waterview, just across the Oakley Creek. Like A Doctor in the Whau, Wairaka's Waters sprang from the same overall "umbrella" research -- into the story of the mouth of the Oakley Creek which, hopefully, I'll get tidied up soon, and publish straight to Scribd. That one, for the first time, will be digital primarily, hardcopy only for certain libraries and archives. May be a lot cheaper for me as well, in these uncertain times!

Anyway, here's Wairaka's Waters. I still have a few hardcopies left, if anyone wants one, by the way.

Wairakas Waters - Upload a Document to Scribd