Councillor Elizabeth Yates of Onehunga, 1899

Image from Wikipedia.

Elizabeth Yates is best known as the first female mayor of a borough anywhere in the British Empire, in 1893. Elected as Mayor of Onehunga, her period in office was stormy and ended in November 1894. However, in 1899 she came back, as councillor. From her biography on the DNZB site: "In September 1899 Elizabeth Yates made a triumphal return to the Onehunga Borough Council. She had lost none of her combativeness and was still forthright in expressing her opinions." The Auckland newspapers of the time must have thought all their Christmases had come at once. The following report comes from the NZ Herald, 3 October 1899.

LIVELY BOROUGH MEETING
ONEHUNGA’S LADY COUNCILLOR
MRS. YATES HAS THE FIRST AND LAST WORD.

When the town clerk was about to read the minutes at the ordinary meeting of the Onehunga Borough Council last night, Mrs. Yates said she would like to ask, be¬fore the business commenced, by whom the two new councillors had been installed. She wished it to be clearly understood she did not bring this forward with any ill-feeing but only that the Affairs of the Council might be conducted in a proper and businesslike-manner. There was only one way in which the installation of new councillors could be carried out, and that was by their making a declaration before the Mayor. This had not been done. She would like to know by whose authority the town clerk was empowered to receive declarations. The Mayor had no right to depute his authority to anyone. The two councillors were liable to a penalty of £50 for taking their seats at the Council in the manner in which they had done. Seeing that the two new councillors had made their declaration before the town clerk, she contended that that gentleman had usurped the prerogative of the Mayor in allowing them to do so.

On Mrs. Yates pausing for a reply, the Mayor asked: Have you any further remarks to make, Mrs. Yates?

Mrs. Yates: I want to know who installed you when you were elected to office. Did not your predecessor do so? I maintain it is your duty to first swear in each councillor, and then induct him in his seat.

The Mayor: Anything further, Mrs. Yates?

Mrs. Yates: I am waiting for a reply to my question, Your Worship.

The Mayor ruled that no discussion could take place on any question until the minutes had been read and asked the town clerk to read the minutes.

Mrs. Yates: Oh, but stop a minute, Your Worship. You can't burk discussion like that. I want to put things right at the start and I demand an answer.

The answer not being forthcoming, the town clerk proceeded to read the minutes.

Mrs. Yates (gesticulating and raising her voice): I protest against the minutes being read. By whom were the new members sworn in?

The town clerk proceeded to read the minutes and both he and Mrs. Yates kept raising their voices until they almost shouted. The former getting the best of it, Mrs. Yates suddenly ceased speaking, but remained on her feet until the town clerk had finished. When the town clerk sat down Mrs. Yates said: Now, Mr. Mayor, before these minutes are confirmed I would like to state that they were not written by the town clerk. I have three objections to those minutes being confirmed, and I wish to tell you that the Council must be unanimous in confirming the minutes.

The minutes were then put and confirmed

Mrs. Yates again jumped up and said: Mr. Mayor, I decidedly object to the way in which this vote is taken. Our standing orders say that the Councillors must vote either aye or no, whereas you have allowed them to a vote by a show of hands. Such a method is decidedly obsolete, and illegal, and that is why I declined to vote. Proceeding, Mrs. Yates again asked the Mayor if he was going to answer her question now the minutes were confirmed.

The Mayor, however, remained silent, and Mrs. Yates contented herself with the remark, "Very well, Mr. Mayor, I can only conclude that your answer is not as it should be.”

Subsequently, when the financial statement was read, Mrs. Yates asked what were the liabilities of the Council in the general account, and in the waterworks account.

The Mayor referred her to the treasurer who, he said, was most courteous.

Mrs. Yates: I want the information made public, and I hope the town clerk will supply it at the next meeting. She also wanted the petty cash book laid on the table, so that the Council could know where the money went to.

When the town clerk read out an account for £1 for a deed box, Mrs. Yates asked by whose authority the box had been ordered.

The Mayor: I ordered it, Mrs. Yates.

Mrs. Yates: Then I say you had no right to do so without the sanction of the Council. You have no power to spend even 5s, without the authority of the Council.

Subsequently Mrs. Yates took exception to the manner in which the various accounts were passed for payment. She said: I see you just move that this account be paid, Mr. Mayor, but nobody seconds your motion. Therefore you will have to pay the account yourself. (To Mr. Vause): I wonder if he will pay them himself.

Mr. Stoupe here interjected a remark, when he was called to order by the Mayor.

Mr. Stoupe (to the Mayor: I wish you would call her to order.

Mrs. Yates (to Mr. Stoupe): Who do you call her. I would like to know? Her, indeed. Don't say her. You must say Councillor Yates, and courteously at that. (Laughter)

The Mayor: I must ask you to address each other as councillor.

Mrs. Yates next objected to the Council advertising for tenders for the Iease of the old library building. She asked why the Council should put money into the pockets of the newspaper proprietors. An advertisement on the notice-board was quite sufficient.

Mr. Rowe reminded Mrs. Yates that they had all agreed in committee to lease the build¬ing in question, and they had received one tender as the reult of that agreement.

The last and final conflict of the evening took place on a motion of Mr. Rowe to call for tenders for water pipes.

Mrs. Yates said she was surprised to see a businessman like the mover wanting the Council to pass such a resolution without giving them some idea of the cost. He should have supplied a schedule of the cost of the proposed work and the income to be derived when the work was finished.

Mr. Rowe: The work was promised to be done long ago.

The Mayor (to Mr. Rowe): Please do not interrupt the speaker. It is bad manners.

Mrs. Yates: Oh, I don't mind being interrupted. We are not here for manners, but for business. Continuing, Mrs. Yates said: I am also surprised at you, Mr. Mayor, wanting to expend £400 or £500 just as your term of office is expiring. Do you think the present government would do such a thing on the eve of an election? I know they would not, and I should like to know who in the name of creation would. If you wanted to do this work you should have included it in the list of proposed new works when you took office. And fancy any man seconding such a resolution. When I move a resolution I can’t get it seconded and I am in the unfortunate position of having to ventilate the views of the ratepayers single-handed.

Mr. Stoupe: I seconded the motion with my eyes open and wish I could have my ears shut to this twaddle.

The Mayor: Oh, dear, how much more? Please do not let us have any altercations with other speakers.

Mr. Rowe: I can explain –

Mrs. Yates (to Mr. Rowe): Excuse me. The idea of you speaking again before the Council has discussed your motion! You can't do it.

Mr. Rowe: Mr. Mayor, can I make an explanation?

The Mayor: Certainly.

Mr. Rowe: I would suggest that further discussion on this matter stand over to enable me to bring up an estimate of the cost of the proposed work.

Mrs. Yates: There will be a difference of £110 between 3in. and 4in. pipes and you don’t know which size of pipes you want. It ought to stand over.

Mrs. Yates concluded by asking when the town clerk was going to present the balance-sheet. The Mayor said she could get a copy from the treasurer.

Mrs. Yates. Thank you, Your Worship.

Elizabeth Yates was defeated finally in 1901. Sadly, in 1909 she was admitted to Auckland Mental Hospital and died there in 1918. She is buried at St Peter's Church cemetery, just beside the main street of Onehunga, Onehunga Mall.

Avondale’s influenza hospital

In early November 1918, just as Aucklanders were looking forward to an end to hostilities as far as the First World War to end all wars was concerned, the influenza pandemic struck. The Avondale Jockey Club concluded their spring meeting on 6 November, the racing reporter for the NZ Herald noting that “the attendance was somewhat affected by the prevailing epidemic.” By the 10th of November, over 100 cases of this deadly form of influenza had been reported in the Avondale and New Lynn districts, with one death. The Health Department provided a “standard remedy” to be obtained from the New Lynn Town Board’s offices at that point.

On the 12th of November, the Jockey Club placed all its buildings and site, without reserve, at the disposal of Health authorities. (Judging by what was later reported, this was probably after a request from the local Road Board). Over the next five days, a makeshift hospital was set up on the racecourse. As at 17th of November there were 14 patients there, all reported to be making satisfactory progress. The Auckland Hospital Board sent out all necessary equipment, though at that stage they were unable to provide a doctor. The Board’s chairman, W. Wallace, declared his satisfaction with the set-up. A Nurse Curtis was placed in charge, according to the Star, “… and she also rules the visiting organisation in the district as far as Helensville. The nurse is assisted by a band of local helpers.” Among those helpers was a Miss Hume, and the headmaster of Avondale Primary School, Mr. Darrow, who both fell sick with the virus, but survived. Soon after, cases from New Lynn were also treated at Avondale’s temporary hospital.

On the 18th, it was noted that four deaths had occurred in the Avondale district over the preceding few days, but by the following day the situation seemed to be under control. The Avondale Road Board was recognised as the organisers of the district hospital, and now a Dr. Horsley was able to attend. “Residents and neighbours are attending to cases in private homes where it is not found possible to admit the patients to hospitals,” the Star reported. Eventually, the outbreak died out, and the Avondale hospital closed on 28th November, two weeks after the Jockey Club’s offer to use their site in the emergency.

Reg Combes, author of Pharmacy in New Zealand (1981), gives full recognition to local chemist Robert Allely as the organiser behind the hospital, although Allely’s name was never mentioned by either the Herald or the Star at the time of the outbreak. (The Star later reported on Allely's presentation, however.)

“At the height of the epidemic, Allely erected a tent hospital on the Avondale Racecourse … A Medical Officer of Health was despatched to inspect his makeshift hospital, set up in spite of regulations prohibiting such temporary quarters. But Robert Allely knew what he was about. The Medical Officer of Health unofficially congratulated him, and gratefully left him to carry on in his own way, which he was able to do with the help of his voluntary aides.”

It is Arthur Morrish’s News which has ensured that Allely’s part in the crisis wasn’t left out. On 22 January 1919, the Avondale Road Board staged a special presentation of an illuminated address, gold watch, chain and pendant, and a book with the names of 400 subscribers to Robert Allely. The Chairman, Robert Nesbitt, said that “the townspeople of Avondale would never forget that during that critical time Avondale was without the services of a medical man and Mr. Allely stepped into the breach and visited nearly 400 people without fee or reward. When it became necessary to establish a temporary hospital it was to Mr. Allely they looked for guidance and help and right well he served them.” The other voluntary workers who assisted at the hospital were also praised.

While officially Robert Allely’s name may have been left off history’s script – his contribution to the welfare of the people of Avondale has still not been forgotten.

When is a bridge not a bridge?

I think I must have been asleep when this question was answered ...

In yesterday's Western Leader, a brief article was published on the "Second Whau bridge proposal", where it was stated: "The Whau River already has one bridge, the north-western motorway at Te Atatu."

Oh. Okay ...

I emailed the letters editor of the paper this morning, something I do rarely these days.

Dear Sir,

Your brief article on Thursday 15 January was headed up "Second Whau Bridge Proposal" and states: "The Whau River already has one bridge, the north-western motorway at Te Atatu."

I can't see how the motorway causeway across the river is counted as a Whau River bridge, where the 1930s bridge at Great North Road and the 1970s bridge at Ash and Rata Streets are not. This would mean that the new proposal is for a fourth Whau Bridge crossing, surely, not a second.

Yours faithfully,

Lisa J. Truttman

Strictly speaking, the rail bridge at the confluence of the Whau and Avondale creeks is the first of four existing crossings of the river, bank to bank, but I'll stick with the three across the river proper.

Update: letter published.

Avondale Railway - 15 January

The two sets of track are now in place on the west side of Blockhouse Bay Road, between the bridge at Crayford Street at least. Proof of the pudding, as they say, is the train on the westward track.

The two temporary platforms at Trent and Tait Streets are shaping up.

Meanwhile, close to Crayford Street, a shot of the engine hauling the train in the top shot, and an Ontrack rail vehicle.

Soldier's Graves at Omapere, Northland

The Battle of Puketutu, from NZETC. Details of the battle at Omapere at the link.

I spotted this in the Auckland Star, 17 March 1890.

Soldiers' Graves at Omapara.

EXHUMATION OF BODIES.

On the 6th inst., while at Okaihau, I went to Omapara to see the graves of some of the soldiers killed daring Hone Hoke's war. The Government had directed the remains to be exhumed and interred in the Okaihau consecrated ground.

There is something very interesting and, at the same time, very humiliating in looking into the secrets of the grave after so long a time. These poor fellows had lain in their narrow beds for 45 years. One man had his front teeth knocked out by a bullet which had passed out through the back of his head. Another had had a bullet flattened on his jaw, a third had a bullet lying on his chest. All the clothes were gone, save iron badges, heels of boot, etc. Some badges bore the name of Gibraltar. Two or three buttons were of the 58th, and one of the 69th. One man had a stick of twist tobacco, in good preservation.

There were three large pack needles, a penny, a collection of brass tips to ramrods, a pipe, etc., etc. The bones were nearly rotten, and invaded by roots, and very incomplete. Most of the men were presumably young, wanting the wisdom teeth. One body was of a Maori, which had been wrapped in a blanket, the remains of which, as well as of three flax ties, were still visible ; this one was the only one whose hair still remained, and it was laid E. and W., whilst all the others were laid S.E. and N.W. There were 12 found in all.

I could not help thinking when I saw the little heap of half rotten bones piled like a heap [of] rubbish, and mixed up with their little belongings, that it would have been better to erect a small stone over the place (which is well suited for the purpose) recording their fate, and allow the poor fellows to remain undisturbed in their repose.

Signal box art

On the corner of New North Road and Blockhouse Bay Road, outside the Avondale Baptist Church (now called The Intersection), there is a decorated signal box.

The design is loosely based on a photograph which appeared in Challenge of the Whau of the Avondale Volunteer Fire Brigade, and is probably sited where it is because this signal box is close to the modern-day fire station. But the volunteer brigade were further down the road by the railway bridge, and the design looks more American to me than Kiwi.

Still it's eye-catching, may make people think about local history, and does no real harm being there. A series of such signal and telephone circuit box decorations has been done both here in Avondale and elsewhere in both Auckland and Waitakere Cities. The ones here were an Avondale Community Board initiative.

An update: the mural was removed over Easter, 2009. New post here.

Pt Chevalier History Group

Well, despite my quaky trepidations over the past couple of days, I fronted up today before a gathering of 25 at the Pt Chevalier Community Library, as we inaugurated the local history group. Who knows what will happen, or how long it will survive, but it's only newborn for today. I'm on the committee, as secretary and editor of the Pt Chevalier Times, the publication of which has apparently gone down a treat on the Point.

I'm really honoured to have been a part of the process. Padmini Raj from the library presented me with a bouquet of flowers (the photo at left). The flowers won't last, but at least for much longer, I'll have the photo to remind me.

1908 advertising

These come from the Auckland Star and Thames Star, July-August 1908.

Cocoa and coffee and progress -- I like the simplicity to the Van Houten's ad, probably originating from America or Australia. More Van Houten's artwork here.

Brown Barrett & Co were a New Zealand importing company for coffees and teas from the late Victoran era to the middle of the 20th century. Not a bad piece of drawing for its time -- the dangling brandname letters certainly catch the eye.

This looks much better on the original printed page than here -- but it attracted me because of the business, the person drafting this ad trying to convey the impression of a busy, crowded bar full of toffs and swells (perhaps in a theatre?). Considering the printing technology of the time, this came out very well.

Sanfords these days is a multi-million dollar concern. Back in 1908, it was still small enough to be thought of as just another fish stockist.

Fry's Cocoa's simple advertisement with the plant entwining the letters is typically elegant of this long-lasting company.

This is the first NZ advertisement I've been able to say definitely has art nouveau leanings. I'm a bit of a fan of art nouveau and its fin de siécle feel.

This ad implies that Derby 'baccy is for oil prospectors (in the background are oil rigs and derricks). Probably apt for the Thames area where this advertisement was published.

Yep -- you really can't go having your corsets getting rusty on you. Hard enough to imagine how women put up with the things, without them corroding so close to the skin.

And finally -- this is here because it is utterly weird. "X-Ray" in 1908 still meant something miraculous, but what it has to do with a stove cleaner, or even an infestation of little antennaed pixies or something is beyond me. For another example of this ad, check this out. More examples of "X-Ray" advertising here.

American Civil War research -- finding more graves in New Zealand

Terry Foenander is a researcher with a very interesting website called U.S. Civil War Navies. This morning, he left a couple of comments to my earlier posts about the recent headstone ceremony at Waikumete Cemetery, here and here.

I'm adding his website to the front page list -- the articles he's written from his research are worth a read.

Terry told me he has been researching another Civil War veteran buried here -- Sydney Herbert Davies, who died in Dunedin 1915, a man with an incredible career fighting in the Crimean War, American Civil War, and being part of the NZ Armed Constabulary, awarded the NZ War Medal. Terry's research is still in progress; it will be very interesting to see what else becomes known about Mr. Davies.

Avondale railway update

This photo was taken on 8 January -- Crayford Street railway station site (well, later this year, it will be.

And here, from today (and from the overhead railway bridge at Blockhouse Bay Road) -- the rails are coming back!

There are lots of folks taking photos of all this going on. I spoke to a gentleman on the bridge today (fellow Railway Enthusiasts member) who said he had shots of this, and work that was done at Kingsland. Have to confess, I have some shots of the Kingsland station work too, dating back a few years, now. These days, though -- I share my photos with those of you who happen across this blog -- but I do intend to package what I have up and give it as digital files to Special Collections.

Fonterra's building: the new dominating the past

This photo today was a case of the ol' "see something interesting while waiting at traffic lights in a bus, hurriedly grab camera and hope for the best." Didn't do too badly. The red-wrapped architecture is the new Fonterra Building on Princes Street -- and the facade bravely trying to still look good in front of 21st century progress is what is left of the Grand Hotel. An earlier photograph can be seen on the Auckland Art Gallery's site, here. The name Grand Hotel is now applied to part of the Skycity complex, but in days gone by this was a grand old lady indeed.

The Northern Club, to the left and clad in her usual garb of ivy green, is going to be even more overcome by the new arrival, I think. These buildings used to dominate this crest of the rise from Queen and Shortland Streets. No more.

NZ Mounted Rifles website update

Further to this post: Steve Butler has included Canvas City on his website for the NZ Mounted Rifles, here and here. I am quite chuffed, and deeply honoured. Thanks, Steve!

The McLiver Saga

Image: Photo by Michael Rogers, 2001. Panorama of Norfolk Island. From Wikipedia.

In the 1890s, John McLiver (1845-1906) and his family came to live in Avondale. They were only here 15 years at most – but owned nearly four acres of land through which present-day Racecourse Parade runs down to the Suburbs Rugby Club and the racecourse land itself (NA109/56), and possibly also all the land (nearly 12 acres) from the corner of St Judes Street and Blockhouse Bay Road, running back to St Judes Church land, then behind the church along almost all of Donegal Street (both sides), then up to Blockhouse Bay Road. The holdings included a triangle of land between the railway and the unformed part of Layard Street, plus the southern side of Crayford Street East stretching back to St Judes Street. This bit of their local land history I have yet to confirm – I’m waiting on an application pack to come through from Land Information New Zealand, because all Deeds Index roads lead back to a lost set of three volumes, 20A. However, it appears likely that John McLiver lived in the old house at 153 Blockhouse Bay Road, recently renovated by the current owner who hasn’t changed the outer look of the old place much, except to improve what time has crumbled slowly away. [Update note: No, the property at Blockhouse Bay Road isn't associated with Captain John McLiver after all, but it was owned by his niece-in-law and nephew. More at the updated post link below.]

Because of that 15 year or so period John McLiver spent living in Avondale, I’ve gathered up the following of what is known about him and his clan.

A court case in 1856 is the reason why we know as much as we do about the background to the family’s arrival in New Zealand (Southern Cross 26/9, 14/11, and 18/11/1856). Our Avondale John McLiver’s grandparents, John (a carpenter who died around 1837) and Elizabeth (neé McLean, c.1771-1860) were married at Islay, in Scotland around 1796. They had nine sons and three daughters in all, but only five survived to maturity: John, Hugh, Lachlan, Duncan and Agnes.

John McLiver (the eldest son) appears to have joined the Royal Navy. His family felt sure that he was on the HMS Thunderbolt when it sank in 1847 off what is now called Thunderbolt Reef off Port Elizabeth in South Africa, but the Admiralty denied he was on board. (In the 1890s, it was felt that John had just gone to America, and vanished).

Hugh (c.1818-1850), the second eldest, ventured to the wilds of Northland in pre-Treaty New Zealand around 1837, settling near Kororareka where he took up the carpentry trade, calling himself an architect (SC, 31/3/1849) and engaging in building a number of houses for the settlement. In 1839, he married Jane Buckland Critchard in Hobart, and brought her back to Kororareka. By 1842, he was doing well enough for himself that he sent for the rest of his family, including his widowed mother and siblings Lachlan, Duncan and Agnes. They arrived on the Duchess of Argyle, leaving Glasgow 9 June and arriving at Mechanics Bay 9 October 1842. The family lived at Kororareka until 1845 when, along with many others, they fled the Northland War. Hugh lost a great deal because of this, but continued to support his mother until he died.

In 1848, he decided to quit the colony and head to California and the gold rush there. His brother Duncan went with him. His wife Jane didn’t follow until early 1850, shortly before he died during a cholera outbreak at San Francisco 10 November 1850, and disputes over his will began almost immediately (whether or not Hugh and Jane were alienated from each other before he headed off to find "gold in them thar hills" was brought up in the later case). The original will, it appears, wasn’t fully witnessed – and apparently burned in a fire in Sacramento while in Jane’s possession. She claimed, under the terms of a copy of Hugh’s will, that his New Zealand assets were hers, but Hugh’s brother Lachlan in Auckland challenged this in a court case against a tenant of hers which was eventually settled out of court. Jane continued living in Sacramento until c. 1854, then travelled to Melbourne, before returning to New Zealand in time for the 1856 court hearings. She returned to San Francisco, where she died 21 June 1863.

Lachlan McLiver, meanwhile, married before 1845, and had seven sons and a daughter: John (b.1845), Finlay (b. 1847), Hugh (b. 1849), Archibald (b. 1852, died 1877), Lachlan, James, Charles, Isabella (who died in 1880).

In 1860, Lachlan was living in Hobson Street as a carpenter (Jury List). By 1863, he had a substantial timber mill at Pakiri, north of Leigh. (SC 21.11.1863) His son John was manager at the Pakiri Saw Mill by 1864, aged only 19. (SC 12.1.1864)

The McLivers moved from land-based trading to the sea in October 1863 when Lachlan purchased the Nile to convey his timber from Pakiri. This was most likely in partnership with long-time family friend and timber merchant Thomas William Brown in Auckland. The Nile was wrecked off Kawau Island on 5 January 1864, under the command of Captain Wallace. Lachlan may have thought, perhaps, that it was a better idea to put family in charge of his boats. By 1865, a “Captain McLiver” was in charge of the Sylph from Pakiri (one load – 40,000 feet of timber, SC 31.5.1865) A new cutter, America, was launched November 1865, and this ventured out to the South Sea islands. It was wrecked June 1866 at New Caledonia. In July 1866, undaunted, the family purchased the schooner Kate Grant for the Norfolk Island trade, and in November 1866, the schooner Dot for the Pakiri Mill. By now Lachlan was retired and based at the Scotia Hotel, operated alternately by either himself, T. W. Brown or Lachlan’s wife Ann until 1868.

A fire in Hobson street in August 1866 burned down Lachlan’s house (which he rented out). The fire originated in some hay under his old house (the inquest concluded there were suspicious circumstances, but nothing was proved -- SC 25.8.1866) In March 1867, Lachlan was fined for drunkenness, his wife took over the hotel in July, and Lachlan died at the Scotia Hotel, 23 February 1868, aged 47.

Two of Lachlan’s sons were mariners: John and Finlay. Which of these two, up to the mid 1870s, was a captain of any boat or ship which was captained by a McLiver is fairly uncertain, but they do appear to have operated in partnership. In 1867, John was 22, while his brother was 20.

From May 1867, the McLivers first came under suspicion of “blackbirding” – the kidnapping of Kanakas from Melanesia as labour recruitment for the plantations in Fiji. If John McLiver (who was master of the schooner Bluebell when it was wrecked in May 1868 -- SC, 2/6/1868) was also master a year earlier, then the accusations made by one of the Anglican missionaries on Norfolk Island referred to him:

“Mr. John Adams, of Norfolk Island, furnishes the following respecting the doings of an Auckland vessel, to hand per Southern Cross … " I am of opinion that the doings of the schooner Bluebell at the islands will not bear scrutinising closely, she having been engaged, after landing her cargo at New Caledonia, in the nefarious business of trapping the poor natives at some of the islands, to be sold at so much per head to some European or American at the Fijis. The captain of the Bluebell has openly made his boast here of how they were caught, how they were fed, and how they were sold. At one island where he attempted to take some he got the worst of it, for the natives rose upon him, and killed two of his crew — a man named Peter, a Dutchman, and the cook, a person belonging to Auckland. I believe Captain McLiver was very anxious to conceal this part of the affair, but the mate assured me that the two men were killed by the natives in defending themselves."

Nothing more was said about this in the papers. However, in 1870, Captain Finlay McLiver, master of the William and Julia, came under the spotlight (SC, 19/3/1870):

“An official inquiry was hold at the British Consulate [Fiji] touching the conduct of the captain of the schooner William and Julia, on her last voyage to the Line Islands. E. March, Esq., her Britannic Majesty's Consul, believing the captain's proceedings had been irregular, he, with several other gentlemen, went on board the William and Julia, and demanded from Captain Finlay McLiver the vessel's log, which was refused, as was also the ship's register, and all other papers that might throw light upon the proceedings of the vessel since she left Fiji some months ago. Captain McLiver was consequently summoned to appear before a Court of Inquiry, consisting of B. March, Esq., President ; and Messrs, J. B. Thurston, H. Emberson, and W. Edwards. The charges consisted of breaking certain Acts of Parliament, and being guilty of practices tending to promote and encourage a slave trade. It appeared, from the examination of Captain McLiver, that the vessel was owned by a New Zealand chief, and that he had had command for nine months in excess of his agreement ; that he sailed under no flag; that he did not know whether he was a British subject or not; and that he kept no log. It further appeared that on leaving the Line Islands he had on board four women natives, who he alleged belonged to some white passengers, but two of whom he disposed of to Mr. Leefe's overseer, at Nanau, and received a cheque for £20, as their passage money. The other two, according his own (McLiver's) evidence, were intended to be disposed of in Fiji for the benefit of the vessel. No written agreements were made with the women, but it appeared by the Captain’s evidence of verbal agreements, by which the women agreed to come to Fiji to serve as domestic servants, and under which verbal agreements he disposed of them to Mr. Leefe's overseer. The finding of the Court was that the whole proceedings of the defendant in connection with the conveyance of the women from Gilbert Island, are highly reprehensible, and tending to promote and encourage a most illegal traffic, and that Captain McLiver be removed from the command of the William and Julia, and George Frost appointed to navigate the vessel to Auckland, her port of register. — Fiji Times.

Both John and Finlay were implicated in correspondence from Fiji later that year:

SINGULAR PROCEEDINGS AT THE FIJIS.
The following letter, signed by a number of residents at Levuka, Fiji, was sent to a Mr. Leefe, at Nananu, and by him sent to the Fiji Times, from which we extract;

" Sir., — We beg to inform you a statement is current in this port to the effect that Findlay and John McLiver, master and supercargo respectively of the British vessel William and Julia, did, some days ago, while at one of your plantations, sell two women, brought by them from the Gilbert Archipelago ; it was reported also the men named had on board her at Levuka two other women whom they kept secreted in the hold. Yesterday, the British Consul, attended by several gentlemen, boarded the vessel, and wished to interrogate the master. McLiver refused in a most insolent manner to produce any paper, and further stated he did not know his own nationality, and he did not sail under any flag. Two women were found in the hold, and it was ascertained beyond doubt that two more had been disposed of at your place. We are, therefore, determined to support consular authority in this matter, and preserve our own interests in the country, by putting an end to any nefarious practices, such as those of which McLiver Brothers are now charged, and which by their conduct here appear to be well founded. On the part of, and in the name of the European residents in Fiji, we call upon you, as the proprietor of the plantation where this act is said to have occurred, to furnish those explanations the subject demands. That no delay may ensue, we have sent the boat Tyro, and we would impress upon you the necessity of forwarding to this port the women and the person who is said to have received them, where they can be questioned by her Majesty's Consul.”

(Evening Post, 9/6/1870)

There are references to Melanesians being imported even to operate flax mills in New Zealand. The William and Julia was mentioned. (Evening Post, 10/6/1870) By 1871, the schooner was used for more innocent purposes, conveying coal to Thames. However, the McLiver Brothers were back out in the islands with a new schooner, the Nukulau. In 1871, the Fijian authorities questioned one of the McLiver brothers as captain of the vessel (possibly Finlay).

Then, in September 1872, Finlay McLiver was caught blackbirding again. (SC, 26/10/1872)

“The Nukulau returned into Levuka harbour from a "labour cruise," on Thursday, September 12, under the command of Findlay McLiver, with 116 souls on board. This vessel had been absent upwards of three months, having indeed left Levuka harbour upon this last cruise during the first stay of H.M.S. Cossack. It is alleged of the Nukulau, and other trading vessels, that mock religious services were held on board that vessel, by which instrumentality natives were decoyed on board, induced to assemble in the hold for the worship of God, and, when a large number of them were thus congregated together the hatches were suddenly battened down, and the good ship sped her way on to Fiji with her living cargo of human captives. … Upon this last voyage, the Nukulau, instead of making, in her return trip, direct for Levuka, first put into Nandi, for the purpose, it is alleged, of gaining the latest news in reference to what, if any, steps had been taken by the Cossack for the suppression of slavery. Nandi is about 100 miles from Levuka. After communicating with the shore, the vessel came into Levuka on Thursday afternoon, at five o'clock, on September 12. When espied by the Cossack, we on shore witnessed some unusual movements taking place on board that ship of war. Large numbers of seamen were drawn up on the forecastle, officers were seen rushing to and fro, the bugle was sounded frequently, and the launch was manned. Preparations were thus made in order to meet any emergency which might arise, and upon the Nukulau's attempting to cross the bows of the Cossack, with all sail set, she was hailed, and ordered to tack about and anchor under the stern of that British man-of-war. Simultaneously a lieutenant from the Cossack jumped on board the Nukulau and courteously requested McLiver to accompany him, in order that Captain Douglas might be afforded an interview. This McLiver was compelled to do and, as soon as he reached the Cossack, he learned to his dismay that he was a prisoner. As soon as these acts became known the greatest excitement prevailed. On Saturday two other men were arrested, and duly placed on board the Cossack. Their names are Scott and Martin. The last named is sometimes called the Portuguese, and both of them are charged with being implicated in the bloody deeds of which McLiver is accused. … A Naval Court however was held on board the Cossack on Wednesday, September 18, of which Captain Douglas was President, assisted by Lieutenant Taylor and Captain Harley, of the barque Duke of Edinburgh. This was instituted in order to investigate the charges of murder and kidnapping which had led to the arrest of McLiver, Martin, and Scott. Two days were occupied in this inquiry, and at the close of the proceedings it was made known that the Court had decided to remand the three prisons to Sydney for trial. Some of the charges upon which McLiver, Scott, and Martin have been arrested are for outrages committed during the first half of the year 1871. Although the primary charges may be for offences committed so long aero, nevertheless it is more than probable that in Sydney other accusations will be preferred against the prisoners. McLiver it is said left New Zealand about three years ago with a schooner called the William and Julia, the property of a Maori chief. Besides the three prisoners before named, no less than six aboriginal natives have been sent to Sydney with them on board the Cossack. "

“At the Sydney Water Police Court, on October 23, Finlay McLiver, John S. Scott, and Nicholas Harris (alias Martin) were charged with assault on the high seas. … the charge was one of assault upon a person unknown on the high seas, alleged to have taken place in the middle of last year. …The Nukulau, in which the prisoners were, sailed for Florida Island, where they arrived on Sunday morning, some time in June or July last year. The natives of the island came off in canoes in great numbers, and, when they got alongside the ship, harpoons, pump breaks, and other heavy materials were thrown into the canoes, upsetting them, and throwing the natives into the water. The natives were swimming about, and the ship's boats picked them up, and they were taken down into the hold and imprisoned there. This state of things continued from Sunday morning and Friday evening, during which time they picked up 85 natives. The vessel then sailed for Port Resolution, one of the Solomon Islands, where prisoners in the same way picked up 112 natives. The ship then sailed for Ronbians, where six natives were shot and a lot taken on board. He would also be able to show that there were firearms on board the Nukulau, about two dozen muskets, and also cutlasses, leg irons, and other implements for securing the natives and preventing their resistance. Some of the natives were taken on board the ship chained in couples. The vessel he believed was painted like the mission schooner ' Southern Cross,' which went to the islands shortly afterwards. … Prisoners were remanded until -November 1, bail being extended.”

(SC, 1/11/1872)

The Police Court, however, refused to accept depositions from the natives without an interpreter (and there was apparently none available), so the case was dismissed. From this point, Finlay seems to have decided to leave the sea behind him, and join his brother Hugh, involved with mining at Coromandel and later Te Aroha.

John McLiver maintained his maritime career, however. In July 1881, he was in charge of the Norval to Noumea, he purchased the Christine in 1882, intially as a cargo ship, then as a whaler. He sold her in 1894 (Poverty Bay Herald, 10/9/1894). He joined Hugh with some mining business involvement in 1896 (Observer, 25/7/1896), but he was residing at Avondale from 1890 (electoral rolls).

In 1867, he married Almira Emeline Christian (1847-1918) on Norfolk Island, a great-granddaughter of Fletcher Christian of Mutiny on the Bounty fame, and settled the island at Ball Bay, an area of the island where many of the Christian family descendants had land (and which was directly on the other side of the island from the Melanesian Mission). It’s believed that he brought his family back from Norfolk Island in the mid 1880s to New Zealand.

Captain John McLiver’s lively story ended on 11 October 1906, when he and his wife came out from Auckland Hospital after visiting a friend. He complained suddenly of not feeling very well, sat down by the roadside, and expired.

A further, related post here.

NZ Mounted Rifles website

I've added the website for the NZ Mounted Rifles to the list to the left of the page. Steve Butler, the site's webmaster, posted a wonderful comment to my earlier post here on "Canvas City", my article on the camp of the 3rd (Auckland) Mounted Rifles at Avondale in 1912. The Mounted Rifles site is a wonderful piece of online history -- do check it out.

Update on William Tullibardine Murray

The hunt for information on W T Murray began with the story of the Avondale Supply Depot, continued through some Googling, the account of his death on Mt Egmont/Taranaki, and contact with the historian for Clan Murray, and then on to the story of Highlander Condensed Milk. I left that last part with the question: was the W. T. Murray of the dairy company which developed the Highlander brand the same William Tullibardine Murray I had been chasing?

As a William Tullibardine Murray of Auckland (formerly of Wallacetown in Southland) was among the list of those selling the patent for "Murray's Concentrated Milk" to the new company of W. T. Murray & Co in 1898 -- it looks like the answer is yes.

On 21 March 1898, Murray, along with Henry Norman Bell (manager), Henry Burton (gentleman), Frank Jagger (merchant), William Alexander Mercer (gentleman), James Macfarlane (merchant), Frank Duthie (gentleman) and Charles Vince Houghton (manager) set up the firm W. T. Murray & Co, conveying the patent rights, "together with buildings, plant and machiney" to the new company. In 1892, their previous company had been located at the frezing works wharf in Auckland; by June 1903 they had relocated their registered office to Esk Street in Invercargill, and in 1906 they were in Spey Street in the same city.

William T. Murray was a shareholder of the company at least until 1901 and 1902, both years referred to on the shareholders list as living in Toowoomba, Queensland, as a manufacturer. He ceased to be a director by July 1902, and that is the last year he held shares in the firm which maintained his name until 1918, when it became New Zealand Milk Products Limited. In 1924, Nestlé bought them out.

Source: Closed company file on "The New Zealand Milk Products Ltd (ex W T Murray and Company Ltd, Murray's Ltd), BADZ/5181/67/459/1898/3, Archives New Zealand, Auckland

Drawing the line: the establishment of the Whau Highway District

In terms of Avondale’s history, the establishment of the Whau Highway District in October 1868 seems to have come about almost as a result not of the settlers’ will so much as it was the will of the Superintendent of the Provincial Council. While there were landowners from the Whau who had put their names to the February 1866 petition to the Superintendent for the Mt Albert district board to come into being, by the time the new Highway District was gazetted in October of that year, only a sliver of Avondale had been included. All of Blockhouse Bay and virtually all of New Windsor (placed under Mt Roskill Highway Board control by the beginning of 1868), plus all of Rosebank and Waterview lay outside the Mt Albert Highway District boundaries. The new highway district included Josiah Buttress’ Stoneleigh farm, Buchanan and Palmer’s lands leading down to the Whau River, half of today’s Avondale Racecourse, the present area from upper Rosebank Road to Wolverton Street east of Great North Road, then land bounding Oakley Creek until the line headed east again. The Whau Presbyterian Church, for example, was now in Mt Albert; the Whau Hotel, just down the road, and the local store, was not.

Come June 1867, and the Superintendent announced intentions to extend the already factional Mt Albert district even further – this time, including Rosebank and Waterview, as well as the Sandringham, Newton and Arch Hill areas. The Mt Albert ratepayers gathered at the Whau Road schoolroom, and heard Dr. Thomas Aickin, chairman of the meeting (whose property had been outside the 1866 district boundary), say “he had been conversing with several gentlemen who were pretty well acquainted with the district, with reference to the proposal of the Government to extend the district. He found that the idea was not altogether acceptable to those from the neighbourhood of the Whau. But those who were then assembled were not, in his opinion, sufficiently numerous to decide for the district. It had been suggested therefore that that meeting should adjourn, to get a larger one, at which a decision might be arrived at.” A deputation had already called on the Superintendent, who “was of opinion that the districts should be as well defined as possible, as well as in many instances much more extended in area than at present.” (Southern Cross, 29 June 1867)

John Bollard (whose property had also been outside the 1866 district boundary) attended the next public meeting on 3 July. He proposed, “That the whole of the district shown on the plan be divided as follows, vis., that portion of land south-east of the present Mount Albert district be amalgamated with the Mount Albert district; the district between Cox's Creek and the Whau to be a separate district; and the southern portion, near the town, as shown on the plan, to be constituted into a suburban district." He thought that under the present circumstances it would not be advisable to have the Mount Albert district enlarged.” Thomas John Sansom from Waterview seconded the proposition. Mr. Galbraith from Mt Albert proposed instead that the Mt Albert district remain the size it already was. (Southern Cross, 4 July 1867)

Of course, wishing for everything to remain the way it was in 1866 was a bit like the metaphorical ostrich with its head in the sand. The Provincial Government’s gears continued to grind slowly toward establishing Mt Albert as a dominant territorial authority, with both suburban and rural ratepayers and all the arguments that entailed, whether the settlers liked it or not.

The Mt Roskill Highway District was in the process of being formed by September 1867. What we now know as Blockhouse Bay was drawn into the boundaries of this new district, and parts of the south-eastern corner of Mt Albert wanted to join in.

Nevertheless, in December 1867, Mt Albert’s new boundaries were gazetted, taking in all of Avondale and Waterview north of Wolverton Street, but placing New Windsor and Blockhouse Bay with the new Mt Roskill district.

The Mt Albert ratepayers were not pleased. At a public meeting in March 1868, they instructed that the Superintendent be advised that they wanted the boundaries back to the way they were in 1866, with the exception of the Sandringham area. (Southern Cross, 18 March 1868) This, however, did nothing to change the situation.

What probably did more to settle the boundaries down to those with which we are more familiar was the establishment from 1868 of local educational districts. The one for the Whau was massive then, taking in the Henderson area, and included Blockhouse Bay. There were contrasts between the Whau district and that of Mt Albert – Whau settlers voted to have a special rate for educational purposes, while the Mt Albert ratepayers, despite the urgings from John Buchanan, voted against such a move. (Southern Cross, 7 May 1868)

In September, the Whau settlers met at the Public Hall, and decided they wanted a separate district. A deputation from Mt Albert approached the Superintendent that month, recommending that the Whau district be separated, and he said he’d think about it. (Southern Cross, 17 September 1868). Five days later, the Whau settlers held another meeting at the Whau Hotel, this time to vote on establishing their own highway district, (Southern Cross, 23 September 1868) and sent their own deputation to the Superintendent, made up of John Holloway, John Bollard, George Thomas and William Motion. They asked for the Oakley Creek to be the new boundary, and to have New Windsor, Stoneleigh and Blockhouse Bay included. William Motion, from the Low & Motion Mill at Western Springs wanted to be included in the new district – which would have meant that the Whau district would have taken in the asylum grounds and possibly even Pt Chevalier as well. Mainly, this was because he didn’t want to be included in with the Newton district. (Southern Cross, 25 September, 1868)

Another meeting, this one of the Mt Albert settlers, was held on 29 September. There were long discussions about the new Whau district, mainly concerning the New North Road (which, with the adjusted boundaries, would have its extreme western end under Whau control beyond Oakley Creek). Mr. Phillips proposed “That, in the opinion of the ratepayers convened at this meeting, it is undesirable that the boundaries of the Mount Albert district should be so altered as to divide the control and supervision of any portion of the New North Road. In moving this resolution the speaker said it was not likely that the people living at one end of the road would care about having their money spent on the other end.” Bollard retorted, “… the ratepayers of the Mount Albert district took a very narrow-minded view of affairs. It was not likely that the end of the road in question would be neglected by the Whau settlers, as it was to their interest to keep it in good repair. He did not think it right that the Mount Albert people should thrust their district right into the heart of the Whau. It had no right to go so far as it did and in all probability it never would have done so if certain parties in the Whau District had not wished to be tacked to the Mount Albert District, but every one of the people who had then wished to go into that district had now petitioned to be cut off again. It was most unreasonable for them to wish to cut the Whau into halves. He, as a ratepayer of the Whau, would be prepared to spend a fair proportion of the rates on the end of the New North Road.” The meeting voted to approach the Superintendent and state agreement as to the establishment of the separate Whau district. (Southern Cross, 30 September 1868)

In October, the Whau Highway District came into being, but didn’t include Blockhouse Bay and New Windsor. In September 1869, the Whau ratepayers met to consider the notion of amalgamating those parts of Mt Roskill’s district with their own. In Bollard’s opinion, “The Whau Highway District was far too small, and it would be for them that evening to consider the propriety of enlarging it by a union with part of the Mount Roskill district The interests of the two districts were identical, and they would be in a better position to form the roads most urgently required were the district extended, so as to include a larger area of ground and a proportionately increased number of ratepayers.” In particular, even then, Bollard had a plan to form a long road to the Manukau Harbour, which we now know as Blockhouse Bay Road. John Buchanan agreed with Bollard. Fortunately for them, so did Joseph May, the chairman of the Mt Roskill Board, who apparently recognised that it would be better for the Whau to have New Windsor and Blockhouse Bay than it would for these two areas of hilly scrub and wilderness to remain under his control. Their remoteness caused John Holloway to express his doubts, but he was reassured by Bollard that they wouldn’t become a road-cost burden to the Whau district. (Southern Cross, 7 September 1869) The new boundaries were soon gazetted.

Much of Blockhouse Bay was Crown land at that stage, the main land sales still two decades away. Bollard gambled that (a) a canal would go through to the Manukau coastline close to Blockhouse Bay, and (b) that settlement there would mean a rates intake to pay for roading. He succeeded in having Blockhouse Bay Road formed in the 1880s-1890s, the backbone of the by-then Avondale Road Board district, but his predictions as to the canal and rate of settlement were way off. The state of Blockhouse Bay’s roads were to be a point of contention well into the 20th century, and contributed to the causes of the amalgamation of Avondale with Auckland City in 1927. The boundaries that were agreed on in 1869, though, still form the basis for the Avondale Ward boundaries within Auckland City today.

More on the Avondale Railway changes

The temporary platforms at Trent and Tait Street are progressing.

At Trent Street (left) they were laying down those raised yellow thingies that warns the blind that they're too close to the platform. Good for the sighted, too. At Tait Street (right), the first part of the platform edge is being laid down. The security light poles are already in place.

Meanwhile, back where the station used to be, there's a wide, curving trench cut out of the clay.

Just a shot of some of the equipment making trenches and building mountains here in Avondale.

Dr. Guthrie Carr: mesmerism, phrenology and laughing gas in Victorian Auckland

Never let it be said that those living in the era of Queen Victoria's reign didn't know how to have a wild time with substances other than alcohol or opiates.

A stage performer named Guthrie Carr came touring around New Zealand in 1872, and introduced laughing gas (nitrous oxide) to his audience's repertoire of ways to get high, along with phrenology (essentially, reading bumps of the head to determine personality etc.) and, to cap it all off, a bit of old fashioned mesmerism (or, what we now call hypnotism). He called his performances "seances". This type of stage entertainment followed on from earlier demonstrations held in the United States during the 1840s & 1850s, by a Dr. Gardiner Quincy Colton, called "Courts of Death".

We were present yesterday afternoon at a private exhibition of the administration of "Laughing Gas" to several gentlemen by Dr. Carr, the eminent mesmerist. The process of manufacturing the gas was conducted in the laboratory of Mr. King, chemist, of Queen-street, and transferred into air-tight bags; of the process and distillation, or the properties of the gas, it is needless to dwell as it would not interest our readers.

The gas was first inhaled by the Doctor himself, afterwards by other gentlemen present. The subjects appearing to be in a trance for a few moments, and on recovery all spoke of the enjoyment and intensely pleasurable feelings in the head whilst under its influence. We are assured that it contains no injurious properties, and partially as a proof of this a lighted match was inserted into a glass vessel containing some of the gas, and the flame immediately became intensified and burnt brilliantly until the gas was consumed. As far as we could judge, and from what we are informed, there is no fear of any reactionary influence after inhaling the gas, the feeling being almost one of regret that its power of action is spent.

We understand that Dr. Carr is about to proceed to the Thames, where he intends holding seances. On his return to Auckland the "Laughing Gas" will be administered in public, and will doubtless cause both wonder and amusement.

(Evening Star, 15 June 1872)

There was a very fair attendance at the Prince of Wales Theatre on Saturday evening to witness the wonderful mesmeric performances of Dr. Carr. The doctor commenced by feeling the "bumps" of a large number from the audience, after which he gave his usual illustrations on mesmerism. The laughing gas was afterwards inhaled by a large number, producing upon those who inhaled it the usual ludicrous effect. Dr. Carr will only give one or two more of his excellent seances. Those who have not yet seen him should therefore do so while they have the opportunity.

(Southern Cross, 15 July 1872)

The following year came reports from America of laughing gas (discovered by Humphrey Davy in 1799) being used by dentists to ease the pain of tooth extractions. I imagine it's popularity as a stage event waned from that point on.

The Celluloid Circus

I'm trying very hard right now to behave in terms of my fascination for New Zealand history books, and watch the ol' budget in these careful times. But, when it came to The Celluloid Circus by Wayne Brittenden, I weakened (mind you, I had a complimentary $25 gift voucher from one of Whitcoulls' pre-Christmas special deals, earned because I needed to buy print cartridges, so I think it worked out well).

This book is wonderful. There's a good review of it at NZine (where the image came from). I personally love the way stories and history of the operation of our cinemas from early days is mixed in with gorgeous photos the author has collected up from all over the country. If you find this in your library, borrow it. If you can afford to buy it, I recommend you consider doing so.

Coal in them thar Rosebank Flats!

In 1882, steps were taken by Avondale's community leaders, such as John Bollard and Francis Gittos, to become involved with investigating a possible coalfield in Avondale. It certainly, for a time, caught local imaginations.

A decade before, probably something that was keenly recalled, Walter McCaul stuck his neck out and put his finances on the line for the idea that coal existed beneath his Waikumete property. On 22 November 1872, he called a meeting of interested businessmen and investors at the British Hotel.

A meeting of gentlemen interested in prospecting for a coal mine at the Whau was held at the British Hotel, Queen-street, yesterday. There was a fair attendance. Mr. J. Buchanan occupied the chair. Mr. W. McCaul, the convenor of the meeting, read the report of Mr. Kelsall, the person engaged in testing the ground at the Whau, from which it appeared that after sinking 5ft. he came on a bed of fireclay. At 9ft. a blue shale and sandstone was cut, and at a depth of 28ft. a small seam of coal was met. The boring was down 47ft., and the report further stated that the strata from the top to the bottom were of a true coal indication. Some discussion took place as to the best mode of going to work to have the ground thoroughly tested, and whether it should be confined to the ground on which the boring was at present being carried on, or whether it should be extended to the surrounding district. It was proposed that a committee, consisting of Messrs. Rowe, Keesing, Gibbon, and Buchanan, be appointed to visit the district and to report at another meeting to be held within the next 14 days, as to the best place to commence operations upon. An amendment was made to the effect that a collector should be appointed to collect subscriptions to assist Mr. McCaul in the matter, and that he should continue the boring. The amendment was lost, and the original motion was carried. A vote of thanks to the Chairman.

(Southern Cross, 23 November 1872)

Unfortunately, by March the following year, McCaul's prospects as the owner of West Auckland's first coal mine were well and truly kiboshed.

On several occasions our readers have been made acquainted with the progress which is being made by Mr. Walter McCaul in his borings for coal in the Whau district. The boring was being satisfactorily proceeded with, and every indication existed to show that coal was near at hand. A depth of 292ft. had been reached, and in that distance several thin seams of coal had been cut through. The various strata gone through indicated underlying coal. A good seam of coal discovered within seven miles of the city, and at a point where vessels could sail up to and take on board a cargo of coal, and land it on the Queen-street Wharf within an hour, would most materially advance the commercial interests of Auckland. Coal found at that depth would likely have been of a more compact nature than any yet found in New Zealand, because it would have been subjected to a sufficient superincumbent weight to have produced a degree of solidification not otherwise attainable. The successful opening up of coal measures under such circumstances would have at least proved that there were exceptions even in that community which was maligned a few years ago as being wanting in public spirit. Unfortunately for the completion of Mr. McCaul's work, and the realisation of his expectations, he was under the necessity of borrowing the set of boring rods belonging to the province. A brief history of this work at this time will be interesting, and will show how the Provincial Government aids in the development of the resources of "our province."

For many years Mr. McCaul has been persuaded that a seam of coal underlies the whole of the Whau district. In August last year he heard that a vote had been taken in the previous session of the Provincial Council to aid in the development of coal seams within the province, and on the 8th of that month made application to the Provincial Government (Mr. Joseph May being then deputy-Superintendent, while Mr. Gillies was attending the General Assembly) for some aid, stating that coal existed on his ground at the Whau. On the 24th of that month Mr. May replied to the application, stating that there have no funds available out of which a money grant could be made for the purpose named, but expressed his willingness to place a set of boring-rods at Mr. McCaul's disposal, to be placed in the hands of a practical man to test the discovery. To this letter Mr. McCaul replied on the 26th of September, informing Mr. May that he had engaged Mr. Richard Kelsall to conduct the boring operations, who, along with four other practical and skilled mining engineers, had expressed an opinion that a good seam of coal would be found at the place indicated.

Mr. McCaul suggested that a grant of £50 should be made to aid in defraying the boring expenses, and proposed that such amount could be taken from the vote of General Contingencies if no other funds were available. The rods having been obtained were being employed under the direction of Mr. Kelsall, & gentlemen who had large experience in coal-mining. To Mr. McCaul's last letter Mr. H. H. Lusk replied on the 9th October, re-asserting the inability of the Government to give any pecuniary aid to the work of opening up the coal measured at the Whau. Meanwhile rapid progress was being made in boring operations, and, as one thin seam of coal after another was cut through, the hope of the workers brightened, and a sum of some £140 had been expended on the work. Mr. Gillies, however, had meantime returned from Wellington, and further progress is arrested. About the middle of February last Mr. McCaul got the first intimation of the " public-spiritedness " of his Honor's Government, by receiving the following letter :—

"Superintendent's Office, Auckland, May 15, 1873. Sir,— I have the honour to request that you will immediately return to Mr. Allright the boring-rods belonging to the Provincial Government, which have been in your possession for some time past. When those rods were lent to you, it was stipulated that they should be returned within a certain time; and, as that period has now long since elapsed, and many applications have boon received for the loan of the rods, Government cannot allow you any longer the use of them. Be good enough to give prompt attention to this request.—I have, &c., T. B. Gillies. Superintendent – Mr. W McCaul, High-street, Auckland”

To this letter Mr. McCaul replied as follows :— " Waikomiti, February 21, 1873 —Sir, I beg to acknowledge receipt of your Honor’s letter dated 15th instant, requesting the immediate return of the boring rods, and stating the stipulated time for which they were lent to me has long since expired, and that Government cannot allow me any longer the use of them. In reply, I beg to say that I got a portion of the rods, 239ft., until the 7th instant, a few days previous to which I discovered that the Government had 60ft. more, for which I applied first to Mr. Allright, who said he was perfectly willing if Mr. Lusk was. I immediately saw Mr. Lusk, who would not at the time say yes or no, but agreed, if I should send for the additional rods in the course of a few days, that, in the event of their being given to me, it would as a matter of course follow that I should have a reasonable extension of time to use them. The rods are now all down except 35ft., which I cannot make sure of putting down in less than three weeks, which I hope your Honor will be so kind as to grant; but if I accomplish it sooner, they shall be returned the moment I have done. — I am, &c, W. McCaul — T. B. Gillies, Esq., Superintendent."

Although it was manifest from the above letter that the rods were being made good use of, and that every additional foot put down was bringing the hidden object of their search so much nearer, the small privilege sought was refused in the following spirited terms: — "Superintendent’s Office, Auckland, 26th February, 1873. Sir,— In reply to your letter dated the 21st instant, I have the honour to inform you that you cannot any longer have the use of the boring rods, as there are other persons who have prior claims to the use of them in localities where they can with certainty be more usefully employed. You will, therefore, have the goodness to return the rods without delay. —I am, &c., Thomas B. Gillies, Superintendent. — Mr. W. McCaul, Waikomiti, Auckland."

The boring rods have been returned to the Provincial Government, and further progress in the work at the Whau is at an end. It is reported that the rods are to be, or have been, sent to Mangonui, to test the coal measures believed to exist in that locality. It is evident that a hardship has been inflicted upon Mr. McCaul by the action of his Honor’s Government. Expenses had not been incurred at Mangonui, as had been done at the Whau, and therefore there was no immediate urgency in the case. When Mr. McCaul was daily using the rods at considerable expense to himself it would have been but fair that he should have had their use while he was willing to work them, or at least for some time longer than was allowed. No one can calculate beforehand the length of time that will be required to reach by boring a certain depth, as progress in such operations depends so much upon the condition of the strata through which the rods must pass, and there does not seem to have been any unnecessary delay caused in the use of the rods at the Whau.

By the decision come to a large amount of money has been spent in vain, which there is reason to believe would not have been the case if the rods had not been so abruptly taken away. Again, his Honor appears to set himself up as a geological authority, for he tells Mr. McCaul that the rods are now to be used in a locality where they can “with certainty be more usefully employed." What his Honor's qualifications are to thus pronounce dogmatically upon the coal-prospecting operations at the Whau, which by inference he does, we are not informed. He will probably find that the community are not quite unanimous in pronouncing him a qualified judge to decide upon such a case as this, and certainly a promising venture has been for the present nipped in the bud by the exercise of what seems ill-timed caprice.

(Southern Cross, 28 March 1873)

Moving forward, to 1882. According to a history of Avondale written in 1952 by a Mrs. W. Ritchie, a quantity of fine peat was discovered on Dr. Daniel Pollen's vast holdings at the tip of Rosebank Peninsula, and this was what led to speculation that where there's peat, there's coal. A public meeting on 1 October 1882 at Avondale's public hall led to the settlers to apply to the Government for the use of boring rods so they could conduct the same tests McCaul worked on 10 years before, on the other side of the Whau River.

The Premier himself, Sir Frederick Whitaker, promised in early November to send the Government geologist, Mr. Cox, to examine the signs of coal deposits found. The Weekly News of 14 April 1883 reported what seems to be the final word on the carboniferous deposits in the Whau:

Mr. Cox, Government Geologist, has paid an official visit to the Avondale district to report as to the nature and character of the district re coal formation. He will report in due course to the committee appointed at the public meeting, but we have reason to believe that the report will be unfavorable, and that Mr. Cox, who has previously made an exploration of the district, does not anticipate the finding of coal seams in Avondale.

An update (7 August 2009): Mrs. Ritchie's 1952 history was incorrect, but only in that the discovery wasn't made on Pollen's land, but on Dr. Thomas Aickin's estate. In October 1882, his former farm was put up for sale in subdivisions.

"Dr. Aickin's Avondale estate will be sold to-day at noon by T. W. Hickson and Co. The district is a rising one, and bids fair not only to be the residence of a large suburban population, but the seat of a series of important industries owing to the fine clay deposits existing there for brick making as well as for the finer classes of pottery. The recent discovery of lignite coal must also have an important bearing on its commercial future. As the district is connected with the city both by road and rail the steady increase in the value of property there may be regarded as assured and certain."

(NZ Herald, 24 October 1882)

"The important discovery made within the last few days at Avondale, on the property of Dr. Aickin, of extensive beds of lignite exactly similar in character to that found overlying the Bay of Islands coal mines, is likely within a short time to lead to important results, as we learn that a movement is now on foot amongst owners of property in the neighbourhood to thoroughly test the substrata, in the belief that coal will be found to underlie the lignite seams at no great depth below them. An application will be made to the Government for the use of the diamond drill for the purpose. We are glad to see the matter so energetically taken up by those immediately interested, and should be pleased to see their efforts crowned with success. The importance to Auckland of a discovery of coal in such close proximity to the shipping and to the city is obvious. Large barges can be brought right up against the bank where the find has been made, and the coal delivered into them direct from the pit's mouth and delivered alongside any vessel in the harbour within an hour. A branch line of railway about a mile in length, and over perfectly level ground, could be taken from a little beyond the Avondale station right to the ground."

(NZ Herald, 24 October 1882)

I now also know that Benjamin Gittos was chairman of the committee of five gentlemen appointed at the district meeting on 31 October 1882 "to collect information as to the most practical and business-like way to set to work". He was too ill to attend the second district meeting in December. (NZ Herald, 9 December 1882) At that meeting, they decided to await the word back from Cox, the Government Geologist seen above, the word from him was negative.

Update 12 June 2011:
This from the Evening Post, 18 May 1928

Some excitement was caused in Avondale by a rumour that jets of steam were issuing from the ground on the property owned by the Avondale Jockey Club, and formerly the site of a brick works. It appears that some three months ago a fire was lighted in the locality to burn some rubbish and the heat had caused an outcrop of lignite to catch fire. This had been smouldering underneath the ground ever since. It had made such headway that a good deal of heat was generated and the heavy rain this week had evidently penetrated a fissure in the ground, coming into contact with the burning matter. Lignite will burn or smoulder for many months, as on a previous occasion a lignite seam on an adjoining property burned throughout the winter.