Heading around to the Strand in Tauranga

A bit of a  mix of sites along the Tauranga heritage trail as you head down McLean Street to The Strand.  You see Te Urunga here, the shelter for the waka Te Awanui, carved from a totara log by master carver Tuti Tukaokao in 1973. The shelter was opened in 1975, on the site of the Tauranga Harbour Board office.

Something not in the heritage trail brochure: a memorial plaque to Rod Donald of the Green Party, along with memorial tree.

This is the Bond Store, built in 1883 by James Alexander Mann of Mann & Co, merchants. They moved from their temporary premises from July that year to their new building "under the Fort, north end of the Strand". It was sold in 1908, according to NZHPT, and has been used for various purposes since. Now, it's a local newspaper office.

But, just over the railway tracks ...

... is a stunning piece of street art, what appears to be a memorial to Sir Howard Morrison. Also not on any heritage trail.

From this point, it's a steep climb up to Cliff Road. Back in a bit.

Sad days for Tauranga's old tree

This was probably the paragraph, in the Heritage Trail brochure, that helped me decide what to do with a glorious Saturday last weekend in Tauranga -- go off and find history. Of course, eagle-eyed readers will spot the proofing error, eh?

So -- a tree on an urban heritage trail. Great, I thought. Let's take a look.

Actually -- it ended up having more of a story than I thought.

There have been some sad articles of late in the local papers about this tree.

A bid to save Tauranga's giant 146-year-old aspen tree in Willow St is under way today after a massive branch crashed to the ground yesterday, narrowly missing parked cars.

(Bay of Plenty Times, 18 January 2011)

Tauranga's giant and historic aspen tree is to be reduced to a mere shadow of its former self, once arborists finish chopping 16m from its 34m height ... The 146-year-old American cottonwood dates back to the era of the Battle of Gate Pa and is reputed to be Tauranga's oldest living thing. 

 (Bay of Plenty Times, 19 January 2011)

The death knell has sounded on the stunted remains of Tauranga's once mighty aspen tree. A close 6-5 vote by the Tauranga City Council decided the fate of the 146-year-old landmark tree that dates back to the Battle of Gate Pa.

The future of the formerly magnificent tree, on its own reserve in Willow St, looked in doubt when a massive branch crashed to the ground on January 17, exposing just how far rot had spread. With a mere 10cm wide circumference of live wood supporting the tree, it was going to have to be cut back to a stump in order to survive in safety - a process called pollarding.

Some councillors wanted to give the aspen this last chance and then allow it to regenerate from there. However, parks team manager Steve Webb said that even if the stump grew back into a reasonable canopy, it would still have to be cut back to a pollard every couple of years. Although it was hard to know how long the aspen would survive by pollarding, he was confident it would live for another five years.

 (Bay of Plenty Times, 22 March 2011)

So ... here it is.

It isn't an aspen, apparently: more likely, a Canadian cottonwood. The idea of it stemming from a trooper's piece of tethering post is called into question by the marble plaque at the base of what's left of the tree.

The Tauranga "Aspen" Tree.

Although referred to as the aspen, this tree is in fact populus canadensis (Canadian cottonwood), a name covering many hybrid varieties between P. balsamifera and P. nigra. Therefore in the strict botanical sense it is only a cousin to the true aspen, P. tremula.

Legend places the tree's origins in the hands of a soldier who dismounted from his horse and pushed his switch into the fertile soil. History however tells that the tree originated as part of a shelter belt planted in the 1860s to shelter the gardens of the Church Missionary Society's Maori Boys School that was part of the Mission Station.

You can't stop a good story with facts, though. Apart from the relatively recent heritage brochure's paragraph, there's even a rest home diagonally opposite the tree's site -- named Aspen.

This bit got me, though. The interior of part of the tree is filled with cement -- apparently in a bid to support the internally-rotted tree, and in the aftermath of fireworks damage. How much is tree and how much is cement, I have no idea.

So, there you have it. They're trying to preserve the old landmark for a few years yet, but -- right now, it is definitely a sad, patched-up sight. Feeling sorry for the tree, I moved on.

Update 3 July 2011: I've received the following email today from historian John Webster.

Lisa,

 

I've been home just over a week now and should have mentioned to you that the elm/pine tree you admired in Tauranga - the one to which settlers hitched their homes - is sprouting new leaves and branches, very high near the crown and a little down one side (I have photos to prove this) - I was stopping at the Strand Motel just in front,which is only one  house section away from the small reserve in which your tree stands...so every day on my way to the Textile Confrence I saw your iconic survivor! Even the bark seemed in good condition for one so old.

 

John W.

Hopefully, this means hope is not completely lost for the old tree.

Tauranga's old Post Office

First in a series of posts to come about my trip to Tauranga this past weekend, attending the conference and AGM for the NZ Federation of Historical Societies (I was delegate for Avondale-Waterview HS, and I'm  on the NZ Fed committee). I didn't attend three out of the four lectures during the conference, though -- I decided to go wandering in the town, following the heritage trail.

Tauranga's second post office (the first burned down in November 1902) was completed in 1906, which would be the year the above postcard shot was taken, as the clock face in the tower is still blank. They finally installed the clock in January 1907.

And here it is today -- extended along Willow Street frontage (left).

It's a bit of a climb up those stairs. This is the first view you see on the walk. For a moment, I wondered if it was the post office.

Six months ago the work of raising a new post office was begun. Assailed because of their indifference to the North, the Government apparently decided to spend money lavishly on this new building, saying, as it were, "Just look what we are doing at Tauranga, and for ever more be silent." But "donors" have more ways than one of making gifts. Now that the Tauranga post office is outwardly completed, those who believe that again things are not precisely what they should be have abundant justification for their belief. Without attempting to criticise the weird type of architecture displayed — if it is a type — it will here suffice to briefly allude to the position of the new building.

One fact immediately strikes the observer, namely, that the back, not the front, is turned towards the town, and that the most ornamented position has been made to face a dead, solid wall of brown earth, nearly as high as itself. To explain: the steep ground which rises behind the business part of the town has been excavated to provide standing room for the post office. On the west and north sides are the straight, red, earthen walls of the hill, varying from about 10ft to 50ft in height.

On the west side of the building, that facing the wall of earth, a handsome porch and doorway now stand revealed to those who care to explore; on the north side, also facing the dull earthen wall and looking away from the town, are decorated windows and doorways, scroll work, dates, monogram, and the legend "Telegraph Office." No stranger will over climb up that particular part of the eminence to look for the telegraph or any other office.

And then the tower and the clock! The tower stands at the faraway end, and the clock cannot possibly be seen from any part of the business portion of the town. Said clock looks down on the top of the decayed Mechanics' Institute, on the top of the so-called Theatre Royal, on several dilapidated and empty houses, and on the butcher's paddock, which, after working hours, contains two horses.

That portion of the building which is most visible to the town, which stands out prominent above the roadway, is the back. The decorations modestly hide themselves— like other good works of the donors -- but the bare black rear, with its unsightly pyramid of red water tanks, faces unabashed the town below.

Poverty Bay Herald, 26 February 1906

Seeing some of the Willow Street facade reassured me I was on the right track.

Tauranga is to have a new Post Office costing £4500.

Thames Star, 28 June 1905

The agitation set on foot in 1897 by means of a competition promoted by this journal, to establish a Town Clock in Tauranga, to be set up in the Post Office, though not dead, has been asleep for now eight years, but is we are glad to say reviving, with the sight of the new Post Office buildings now in course of erection. The cost of such a clock, may of course vary immensely according to the means and wishes of the buyers, but from information handed to us by Messrs Mann and Co, of this town, we gather that a suitable timepiece, with say, a dial 8 feet in diameter, and a bell capable of being heard when striking the hours, at a distance of from half a mile to a mile, according to weather and other conditions, can be purchased in London at a cost of from £58 1 0s to £75.

BOP Times and Thames Valley Warden, 25 October 1905

The roofing of the new Post Office with red Marseilles tiles, crested ridging and terracotta finials, is now completed, and the plasterers are now engaged outside putting on the finishing coats of coloured cement compo, the two colours used in the upper portion being dark red and yellow ochre, the former for the entablature, quoins, mouldings, etc , and the latter for the plane surfaces, which are rough cast with gravel. The whole promises to present a very striking appearance when finished.

BOP Times and Thames Valley Warden, 10 January 1906

The new Post Office is to be enclosed with a substantial fence all round on the boundaries of the allotment on which it stands, with double gates at the carriage entrance, and a wicket for pedestrians. If the Department, or the Borough authorities, with its sanction, will utilise the bank in front and below the building for planting small flowering shrubs, it will greatly enhance the appearance of the building and be an ornament to the town. Undoubtedly something will have to be done to keep the grass and weeds down, when the Borough cows are prevented from acting as municipal landscape gardeners, and the expense might as well be directed into ornamental as well as useful channels, instead of merely utilitarian ones.

BOP Times and Thames Valley Warden, 14 February 1906

The clock tower is probably the most striking (excuse the pun) part of the building's ornate Edwardian architecture.

During the last two days there has been a general clearing up at the new Post Office, where work is now almost completed except the painting and decorating. The former will take probably another week or two to complete, but some portions of the internal decorating will have to be put off for a few months, to allow the plaster mouldings, etc, time to thoroughly dry.

BOP Times and Thames Valley Warden, 9 March 1906

In reply to a question by the Mayor about the opening of the new Post Office, the Minister [William Hall-Jones] said that this could not be done just yet as it was not complete, and in the case of a Post office an essential part of the ceremony was the posting of the first letter, which could not be done till everything was in working order.

BOP Times and Thames Valley Warden, 23 March 1906

A final order for a turret clock and three hundred- weight bell for the new Post Office, was cabled Home on Friday last by Messrs Mann and Co., after consultation with the Mayor (Dr Brown), and Mr G. A. Ward, and it is expected that the a clock and bell will be ready for shipment a fortnight hence. The makers, Messrs Dent, of Westminster clock fame, thought it best to refer some matters for consideration, as owing to the great increase of price in metals, especially bell metal, which has gone up 70 per cent since the firm's tender of nine years ago, a suitable clock to strike on a 3cwt bell could not be landed under £112. This cost and the expenses of fixing of the clock in position will probably bring the fund in debt to about £10 or possibly £15; however the Clock Committee above named decided to order, feeling sure that even if the Government will not pay or subsidise the extra amount, the public of Tauranga will loyally support them in getting a really good article, which will reflect credit on the town.

BOP Times and Thames Valley Warden, 2 April 1906

I looked for an official opening, by some Government Minister as is usually the case for these buildings at that period -- but somehow I think the opening was quite low-key. The building today, after a 1999 restoration, is registered category 1 by NZHPT.

The site also includes two time capsules, due to be opened in 2099.

A bricks mystery: St Andrews Church, Mission Bay

I've just received the following email and photos from Peter Jeffs, on behalf of the St Andrews Parish at Mission Bay.

I just happened upon your blog yesterday and discovered that you have a great deal of knowledge on Auckland brick history. So I was wondering if you might be able to help me to identify an old church brick?

The parish is looking to renovate and extend the church, and for the façade we would like to match the existing brickwork as closely as possible. I don’t know any historical facts about the church other than that it was built in 1957, and the hall was added in 1984.

The bricks are quite unusual. They have a wide variety of colour from Russet red and orange to almost black. The face is generally smooth but some of the darker tones have a very rumbled texture. Also and more unusual is the random colour patterning of the brick, in which each brick is often divided into several ‘bands’ of colour at different angles.

So my questions are:

1.  Where were the bricks made?

2.   Are the brickworks still running?

3.    If not, do any of the current NZ (or Australian) brick manufacturers produce a similar-looking  brick?

4.  If not again, is there anyone out there that can produce a small batch of bricks to match these?

Thanks, Peter. If anyone can help, send me an email or add a comment, and I'll forward things on to him.

A Latitude of Libraries

Here's a great new blog: A Latitude of Libraries, whereby blog author Claire has made it her mission to check out all 55 of the Auckland Council area's libraries.(I'd love to do that!)

So far I've found posts there on Avondale, New Lynn, and Pt Chevalier. Check it out, folks.

Holy Trinity Anglican Church, Thames

My friends Bill and Barabara Ellis made it down to the Thames Heritage Festival last month -- and have sent through these images they took of the Holy Trinity Anglican Church. Opened 18 May 1886, it was the Maori Anglican Church at Parawai for a number of years.

Although it's registered as Category 2 with the NZ Historic Places Trust, they don't have much info online about it. There's a bit more at this other site.

Photos above: the church from the road.

Above: view from the entrance to the rear.

Above: Steel vents in the  floor removed and replaced with this design in wood.

 The organ  - modern day.

 Above: Looking towards the entrance at rear of building.

 More detail of the pitched roof.and the church bell ropes.

The entrance at the rear of the building.

Thanks, Bill & Barbara!

US Ambassador visits Clendon House, Rawene

I caught sight of an article in the NZ Historic Places Trust latest newsletter today:

“There has always been a very high awareness and appreciation of the earliest formal diplomatic and trade connection between the United States and New Zealand by American officials, and we really value that ongoing relationship,” says the Visitor Host of Clendon House, Lindsay Charman.

“We were delighted that Ambassador Huebner was able to take time out of his busy schedule to visit Clendon House and experience first hand some of the history of the relationship between the United States and Colonial New Zealand.”

James Reddy Clendon is an important early figure in New Zealand history. His story is inextricably linked with that of the emergence of New Zealand as a nation state as well as our relationship with the US.

Actually, I wouldn't have thought James Reddy Clendon was a very good example to have of the early diplomatic relationship between the United States and the New Zealand colonial outpost of the British Empire back in those days. Earlier, I posted the following about Clendon:

Captain Clendon was the first diplomatic representative the United States here. Indeed, he was the second foreign representative of any nation here, after James Busby (for the British Empire). On 12 October 1838, the U.S. State Department appointed him as the United States consul at the Bay of Islands. Two years earlier, ten American shipmasters had petitioned their government to provide a representative in order that something could be done about the disorderliness of that country’s whaling crews. Bearing in mind that New Zealand wasn’t a country as such back then, the choice of a resident British merchant who had dealings with both the whalers and local Maori probably wasn’t thought to be a silly one at the time. It did prove somewhat embarrassing later when, in 1840, Clendon was apparently not only involved to some (still debatable) extent with the preparing of the Treaty of Waitangi, he was a signed witness to the document which established British rule in New Zealand, thus potentially acting against the wishes of the nation paying his salary and providing him with the flag flown over his place of business. To Washington, after all, Britain was a trading rival when it came to the whaling and sealing industries, and then there was the matter of trade with China and around the Pacific Rim to consider. A British New Zealand government would also soon impose regulations on foreign shipping – that of the United States included. To add salt to the wound, Clendon went on, still as a U.S. Consul, to accept office as a Justice of the Peace from the new colonial government, and served as a member of the first Legislative Council under Hobson.

Washington found out a year after the Treaty was signed exactly what Clendon had been up to, and on 20 April 1841 the Acting Secretary of State Fletcher Webster reprimanded Clendon and directed him to resign his commission forthwith (I imagine via a memo which began to make its long journey back down towards New Zealand. It crossed with a final despatch dated six days before that from Clendon saying that he was resigning.)

Seeds of doubt and some mistrust as to national and international agendas remained between New Zealand's authorities and the US, through to the 1860s and the coincidence of the American Civil War with our own Land Wars. The Orpheus was down this way more as a bit of sabre-rattling should the Union side in the Civil War think of starting something down here, when Britain supported the Southerners.

Clendon was involved in some dodgy trade deals involving the US, years before the Treaty -- the Cloudy Bay Oil saga a case in point.

This report from the Northern News (16 March), was less committal than the one from NZHPT:

United States ambassador to New Zealand David Huebner was the third ambassador to visit Clendon House in Rawene when he dropped in for afternoon tea on March 9.Mr Huebner, partner Dr Duane McWaine and two embassy staff spent about 90 minutes at the Historic Places Trust property during a low-key tour of Northland.They were greeted by a welcoming party that included Clendon House manager Lindsay Charman, kaumatua Bob Tito and Waimate Mission House manager Mita Harris.Mr Huebner listened attentively while Mr Charman told Clendon's story ...

He had also done his homework on James Clendon who witnessed the signing of the Declaration of Independence in 1835 and the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. Pictures hung in the house prompted a wry comparison between British colonials and Americans who traded with New Zealand but didn't try to claim it as part of their realm. "The Queen is everywhere. She must have maintained some favour."

 Well done, Mr Huebner. Very diplomatically put.

Hong King's double-deck trams

In a departure from the usual theme for Timespanner -- New Zealand stuff -- here are some photos of Hong Kong's double-deck tramcars from Bryan Blanchard. Hong Kong Tramways boast that they have the world's largest fleet of double-deck trams (check out the museum pages at the link for historic images and info). If I ever went to HK, and saw them -- I'd be entranced for hours. (I'm bad enough watching Melbourne's trams outside their central library!)

Bryan's email:

Lisa, here as promised - some of the many photos I took in Hong Kong, our first time there - these were taken on 3-7-2009. Have put some on there 4 wheel trams that go back to the early 1900s & have a fleet of about 160. Cheap to ride on.  Have included a couple of street scenes of the buildings, they use bamboo for scaffolding and there is heaps of it used, even way up high on the sky scrapers. Weather is very hot & humid when we were there, and were told in 2 months time even hotter.

Kiwi the Engine's day out - Easter 2010

"

More photos from Bryan Blanchard, of the Pleasant Point Museum and Railway. Text and captions come from his email.

"Kiwi the Engine & Friends - last Easter

"We thought up this and now run it as the New Thomas franchise owners made it too tough for groups in NZ & overseas to run it - this has proved very successful for us, now this Easter will be the 3rd time we will run it.

"Our steam engine used is a 1878, class =  D 16, built in Glasgow and one of New Zealand's first steam engines - they used it to round 1912 and sold it. It was used by the Pukeuri Freezing works, north of Oamaru, till the mid 1960s round there yard & then was replaced by a diesel locomotive. The D was mounted on a concrete block in their yard, and started to slowly rust away - but that is another story

"Hope of interest - Bryan."

Above and below: D 16, at Pleasant Point Station ( the historic Catholic Church in the back ground )

Above: Loco crew talk with visitors.

Above: The Silly Old Station Master = Rev. Mike Kerr - wanders round our site, keeping a eye on his watch to make sure everything runs on time ( he replaces The Fat Controller, as in Thomas). 

Above: Station Master, Alf Dowell, waiting to allow the train to depart.

Above: D 16 at Keanes Crossing.

Above: Kiwi greeting customers as they arrive at our site.

A Karaka Creek wedding, 1896

Barbara Harvey, whom I meet through events put on by Friends of Waikumete Cemetery, told me of a wonderful find she made at Huapai: a white (yes, the buff colour here is just the colour of the paper Barbara very kindly scanned the invitation onto, then sent it to me in the mail) invitation, delicate and oh so old (1896) to a wedding which occurred between Ethel Margaret Redwood and Harry Ashby.

When she told me about it -- and that she had found the following news item about the wedding festivities in Papers Past, I'd thought the ceremonies had been held in Karaka, South Auckland, and that the Thames Star (24 July 1896) simply picked it up as news.

A pretty wedding took place yesterday afternoon, when Miss Ethel Redwood, second daughter of Mr John Redwood of the Karaka, was united in the holy bonds of matrimony to Mr Harry Ashby, eldest son of Mr Wm. Ashby, of Bella street. The marriage took place at the residence of the bride's parents, the Rev. J. Mackenzie, M.A., officiating. The bride was given away by her father, and looked charming in a pretty cream costume, with silk and lace trimming; and orange blossoms. She also carried a beautiful bouquet made by Miss Ashby. Of the bridesmaids, Miss Grace Redwood and Miss Ethel Ashby looked excellent in maroon serge dresses with white silk sashes ; Miss Jessie Hutchison in cream cashmere and pale pink trimming ; and Miss Ethel Morris pale blue cashmere with blue, trimmed with ribbon. Mr Wm. Ashby officiated as groomsman. After the ceremony the bridal party sat down to a splendid wedding breakfast prepared by Mrs Redwood, mother of the bride. The presents were both numerous and valuable, showing the esteem in which the young couple were held. In the evening a party in celebration of the marriage was held in the Protestant Alliance Hall, about 50 couples being present. Mr A. Billing provided the refreshments to perfection. Songs and dances were indulged in, the dance music being supplied by J. Donnelly (violin) and R. Eastings (piano). Dancing was continued into the early hours, Mr Jas. Dare officiating as M.C.

But I suspect that the Ashbys were a Karaka Creek family, living in the vicinity of Thames. William Ashby is reported to have died at his son Harry's home in Karaka Creek, October 1910, to be buried at Shortland. (also Thames Star).

How the invitation ended up all the way in Huapai is anyone's guess. Thank you, Barbara, for letting me share your wonderful find with the readers!

Update 28 April 2011: Info from Lew Redwood (see below also) re the Redwood-Bray connection.